HELP PLZ! Trouble with clutch push rod




#1
So I just changed my chains and now I can't get the sprocket cover back on. I know its the push rod cause the cover fits when I put it on with out the push rod. When I push the push rod u can hear it knocking in the back so I assumed it was all the way in,but it can't be. How can I solve this problem, what do I have to do to seat the push rod all the way in? THANKS!
 
#7
Strom I may be wrong but I thought I've always heard DO NOT draw in clutch with rod out?
You do that with rod in or what?
I use the service manual, seems like I remember that you are told to put a band on the clutch lever to hold it in an actuated position and then disassemble. You cannot reassemble in that situation, so you need to release the lever (lets the slave cylinder retract) then you can put the thing back together. The instructions in the Strom service manual leave out the part about releasing the clutch lever prior to reassembly, so I had to figure out the same thing that Corey is faced with. No big deal but you are correct, do not pull the clutch lever once dissasembled or you can overtravel the slave.


*****update***** I just looked at both manuals.... they seem to use the same slave set-up. All instructions start with "drain the fluid".... not necessary. Do not force anything or you will be sorry, with the clutch released, should be easy to push the slave piston back enough to assemble the part, I know I've done it at least three times on the Strom (55,000 miles today). No Blanca I did not mean to say pull the clutch while disassembled, what I meant to say is you have to reverse the current situation when there is interference with the assembly, that is all I could remember without my resources. I was wondering about the plural use of chains...
 
#9
No, don't pull the lever. Right now as it sits i'm assuming that the clutch lever is not pulled, the fluid is not drained, and the slave cylinder is not mounted, is this correct?
 
#10
In any event, the rod is not likely the problem, the piston needs pushed back into it's housing (like when you change brake pads on a car) except you should be able to do it by hand (no c-clamp required). That should free up the clearance you need to get the slave cyinder ("release cylinder" to Suzuki) reinstalled.
 
#12
In any event, the rod is not likely the problem, the piston needs pushed back into it's housing (like when you change brake pads on a car) except you should be able to do it by hand (no c-clamp required). That should free up the clearance you need to get the slave cyinder ("release cylinder" to Suzuki) reinstalled.
How would I go about doing that? Sorry for all the questions by the way.
 
#14
My mechanic got it on today . All he had to do was open the bleeder valve to release the pressure on the piston and it went rite on. Then he bled it.
 

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