HELP, please !!! 3rd fried ECU !!! Would wrong ECU just fry it or not run at all?

twvette

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I am on my 3rd fried ECU !!! Very long story and extensive troubleshooting done by myself and a very experienced/trusted mechanic. It is a hayabusa engine transplanted into an off road vehicle and I was told it was an '06 model. I am a year into this problem and yet to get it running properly for any period of long time and so ready to be done with this!!!

What happens is runs great (dyno verified putting down proper HP, curve loks great, etc) and shortly afterwords (days/weeks) the third cylinder (third from sprocket side ... evey time it has been his cylinder) has a slow death. It initially appears just not to wake up until on the gas but can see some weirdness when back on the dyno so its probably cutting in and out. It is verified it is essentially out at idle as that header is only 300 degrees where as the other three are like 600. Leave it running like this for a while and it eventually goes completly out and then the second cylinder starts to do the same. Lots of stuff checked to make sure electrical is good but always comes down to just replace the ECU and sure enough each time life is good again ... for a short period. So, what if I actually have say a '99-'00 or and '01 engine running on a '02-'07 ECU? Could this be my probelm or would it not start at all or run like total crap the second it fires? I will try and call Suzuki to determine year model for sure based on engine number ...

I am also a bit suspicious of my Power Comamnder III and also have GiPro w/ATRE. Maybe one of these two with a mis match in years/model for that year would also fry the ECU? Unplugging these does not fix the problem once it has occurred. I did just move the grounds for these and a couple other low voltage things as installer put them on the engine ground and I cant image all that heat transfer (only like 1ft ground run to PC box) is a good thing ... I have had ground issues before on another vehicle where it really needed to be on battery as these PCs seem to be very sensitive. Maybe heat (I did also have bad head gasket and overheating previously) damaged my PC thus frys my ECU eventually? I will likely just get another ECU and PC (probably get PC V for the heck of it ... hoping less ground sensitive).

Thanks for any help ...
 
I would start with finding out what year engine it is...99-2000 are different..
I would also take that gipro off especially if its a 99-2000 model because u dont need that timing retard in the tre...
 
what color is starter?

What is Ecu #?

What stator rotor does it have in it?

Does it have lots of bump notches or just 8 shave outs on It?

are you using stock harness?

What are you using for rectifier/regulator?

post some pics of engine setup if you can?

Where you located?
 
Below are some pics of the engine.

Verified all three ECUs to be the 32920-24FK0

It is a stock harness that was shortened. Had this done by Peter D motorsports who does lots of this so fairly comfortable.

in Phoenix, AZ

Thanks for any help!

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Everything internal is stock. Recently switched to electric water pump (between the 2nd and 3rd ECu dying).
 
Looks like a early wire harness, by the connector on the throttle bodies.
the 02 to 07's have 2 screws on the tps sensor!
 
so your motor is at least 02-07 unless someone switched out lots of stuff.

Starter is green, covers have the bump in the top.

The throttle bodies are from a 99-01 due to one bolt tps, but your actual fuel injector harness and main harness is from a 01 up as it has round plugs.

what i wonder is if your actual stator is from a earlier model busa or if the rectifier is bad and not controlling the voltage.

have you taken a volt meter and checked:

off voltage at battery

starting voltage at battery

cranking voltage at battery

running voltage at battery

This is where I would start first before i ever installed another ecu and let run for more than 5 minutes,,


Since you say the third coil goes out each time have you tried swapping # 1 coil into its place and see if header temp changes at idle?


you have an electrical issue for sure but the hard part is locating it unless you start at source( battery) and work thru the system.


I don't know peter but gonna be you if it's not one of the sources i mentioned above it's in the harness itself..i have shortend a few and know if your not careful one wire can mean difference of staying running or not.
 
I'd listen to Goldenchild , he fixed my sons bike when the Dealership couldn't . It had electrical problems . He's the only guy I take my bike to up here!:bowdown:
 
Sure its not the other way around in regards to screws? Here they show part pics of both a 2000 and 2006 being single screw but then in the parts required it lists two screws for the 2000 and one for the 2006.

2000:
OEM Parts Suzuki Hayabusa Hayabusa (GSX1300R) 2000 THROTTLE BODY (MODEL X/Y) - Cheap Cycle Parts

2006:
OEM Parts Suzuki Hayabusa Hayabusa (GSX1300R) 2006 THROTTLE BODY - Cheap Cycle Parts

Then looked at eBay (trusted source LOL) and found this apparent 2002 TPS is a single screw:
X2-12 SUZUKI GSX1300R HAYABUSA TPS THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR FREE SHIP IN USA | eBay
 
Sure its not the other way around on the number of screws? I am looking at parts for a 2000 and 2006 and both show a picture of a single screw type but when looking in the parts required it says two screws for the 2000 and one for the 2006.

2000:
OEM Parts Suzuki Hayabusa Hayabusa (GSX1300R) 2000 THROTTLE BODY (MODEL X/Y) - Cheap Cycle Parts

2006:
OEM Parts Suzuki Hayabusa Hayabusa (GSX1300R) 2006 THROTTLE BODY - Cheap Cycle Parts

Then I checked eBay (trusted source LOL) and found this apparent 2002 is a single screw:
X2-12 SUZUKI GSX1300R HAYABUSA TPS THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR FREE SHIP IN USA | eBay

Alos the Service Manual shows a two screw and I assume thats from first year 1999

The source of this engine also had multiple engines and said all were from new Hayabusa's zero miles as part of a startup business to build sand cars. He bought the bikes and removed the engines. They arrived at the person i bought them from all in one piece everything connected including wiring and looked brand new. I can tell you the ECU had very few miles on it. Not saying we werent dooped but in theory this should be a matching set. The harness was then sent out to be chopped so still soem risk they could have swapped some things but seems unlikely. Thanks for closely looking the pics over as thats exactly what I need ... to spot something that is not right one way or another. Please let me know is still feel its an older throttle body I have.
 
For the other points of interest ...

Voltage:
12.7 with isolation switch off
12.7 after turning isolation switch to on
12.4 to 12.5 when turning over to start
goes up to 14.5 within a few seconds after starting
using an Odyssey PC680 battery (generally considered the best brand/type in off road world and need larger as run some extra lights, etc.)

Mechanic did swap/jump over another ignition coil set and that bad cylinder worked fine ... problem only follows that cylinder chaneel on the ECU and is not an ignition coil or spark plug. Just out of paranoya I have switched to a different coil and new spark plug no luck. That cylinder is also still dead if you disconnect Power Commander and ATRE. New ECU and it works perfect again for a little while. he has also looked at the current draw while on the dyno for that cylinder and nothing unusual observed. Something is taking out that 3rd cyliner on the ECU which is a complete mystery. ECU and ignition harness has been checked thoroughly even tot he point of snapping out each wire from it to inspect/test the crimp. He is stumped as apaprently this is a fairly straight connection to the ECU and beleiveds he has tested it all thoroughly. He builds custom turbos for all types of off road vehicles so he is use to solving complex electrical stuff but we obviously need help ... he only sees something busa powered on occassion.

Tracing the electrical diagrams I see the fuel pump seems to be tied in with the ignition for power. I am using an external fuel pump to a fuel cell so perhaps this is causing something weird but dont know what to check. How about a flakey crank or cam sensor? I honestly am not very good at electrical/engine internals but I do like to try and figure this stuff out and have some related background. What next?
 
I am on my 3rd fried ECU...I am also a bit suspicious of my Power Comamnder III and also have GiPro w/ATRE...Unplugging these does not fix the problem once it has occurred.

i would recheck the harness, verify correct matching of electrics, then new matching ecu without pcIII, and Gipro.

you have a variable wiping out your ecu. which variable? test and eliminate. once you are secure that all is a s it should be...then new ecu.
 
Maybe this is a cause? Its a loose connector ... nothing plugged in on other side.

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This is the fuel level connector, correct? The Y/R and one B/W and B/G wire was snipped off leaving only a B/W wire conencted. Not sure why it was done like this and was just sitting underneath a bunch of other wires and likely bouncing all over the place. Maybe something shorting out especially if gets wet? I assume should just snip this last wire and insulate it. I dont know where the other three wires are but I think they just go to the speedo so perhaps this is of no concern or do I need to track this down too?
 
I know it would suck, but I would personally replace the whole wiring harness with another one from 02-07 that hasn't been modified. You have an electrical problem if you keep frying ECUs, and if you can't figure it out based on what you have, maybe something was off from your guy in AZ.

A few of the wires from the harness get moved on the ECU connector at the harness when you go from 99-01 to 02+, though I don't remember which or why (a quick search will reveal this). If this guy got a 99-01 harness and didn't swap those wires when he cut yours, that also may be your issue.
 
I am fairly sure the engine, harness, ECU, etc. match and were actually from the same bike. It all came from one source with all of it conencted so doubt someone would go through effort to make it look like this and confirmed there were no signs it actually was not brand new engine pull. Still a thought in my head but feel fairly comfortable witht his now.

Wish I could just swap harness and not modify. I need different lengths as the vehicle is longer and things are in different locations.
 
I am fairly sure the engine, harness, ECU, etc. match and were actually from the same bike. It all came from one source with all of it conencted so doubt someone would go through effort to make it look like this and confirmed there were no signs it actually was not brand new engine pull. Still a thought in my head but feel fairly comfortable witht his now.

Wish I could just swap harness and not modify. I need different lengths as the vehicle is longer and things are in different locations.

I'm having issues with Peter D harness also. Mine is running on 2 cylinder, ecu picks what 2 it feels like running. Today it's 1 and 4, yesterday 1 and 2. To what did you hook up the red 12V wire, the blue ignition wire and the yellow/blue starter wire? This is my second harness moditifed by Peter D.
 
I'm having issues with Peter D harness also. Mine is running on 2 cylinder, ecu picks what 2 it feels like running. Today it's 1 and 4, yesterday 1 and 2. To what did you hook up the red 12V wire, the blue ignition wire and the yellow/blue starter wire? This is my second harness moditifed by Peter D.

So your first harness was bad and you are on a second one? Mine has always been #3 that goes out and its not intermitted at all ... once it is out its gone ... needs new ECU then.

I am not sure exactly where those wires are going too as dont see them in the wires currently under my dash and I did not do the wiring. I have Longacre switches which include an isolation switch to turn 12V on/off, then there is an ignition on/off toggle switch, and then a push button for the starter.

Let me know what you find too ...


General Update: I mention ignition above but that was lost in translation ... its injection thats being lost on that #3 cylinder. My mechanic got some input from one of the ECU experts after explaining everythying that is on mine and what has been tested so far and he that said has only seen a bad injector channel once in about 1500 Busa ECUs he has worked with and it was due to a bad injector and that is just about all that can cause it. This also fits well with the history of mine as theory is the overheating broke down the injector insulation and it is arching occassionally creating the high current to fry the channel. Said bad grounds, noise, fuel controller, accessories, etc. would not be able to harm these channels in the ECU based on the internals. So, new injectors are on order. We will still add another relay between my fuel pump and the stock fuel pump relay just to ensur ethere is nothing going on here since it is on the same circuit.
 
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