HELP ! Helibars with aftermarket top triple clamp major fitment problem/issue

[Mr Droo]

Well, I can't get my helibars to clear the windscreen or upper dash panels at all. I literally spent 6 hours yesterday finagling with the bars, master cylinders, and top clamp...

The front end is lowered and I have an aftermarket top triple clamp (Probably a Yana Shiki) that I bought from Merisey a while back. I made sure I had the right side on the right side and vice versus. Can I assume the sides are indicated by the perspective of the rider? If my hands are on the bars whilst I'm on the bike, then my right hand is the right bar, instead of standing in front of the bike and assuming the opposite? It sounds ludicrous, but perspective is everything!

I was able to get the right side to clear, but I had to rotate the helibar really far forward, taking away any benefit they (are supposed to) provide. The right side switch housing was also rotated very far forward due to having the notch in the bar to hold the housing in position. The plugged in clicky thing (yes, that's the name I gave it!) underneath the lever was also compromised and I had to bend the two prongs on it to be able to put the connector back on. The throttle cables are spiegler braided lines and have no fitment issue.

I couldn't get the left side to clear at all. I re-routed the fast idle cable under the tank bolts, as indicated in the installation instructions provided. The clutch line becomes, IMO, too tight to keep that way long term without future issues. I tried to rotate it forward in an attempt to clear the outer part of the gauge cluster bezel (that's held in with push clips, near where the mirror bolts are), without joy.

I also removed the semi-rubberyish things the bolts go through, (to hold the top triple clamp and top triple tree together to the forks) in an attempt to lower the top triple clamp even more. It lowered it 1/8 of an inch, sans joy.

Being that the front is lowered and thus, the triple clamp is sitting lower than stock, I'm surprised I'm having ANY clearance issues. I have read about members having a genmar riser/soupy's risers whilst ACCOMPANYING a set of helibars without clearance issues. Other members have indicated that the total swap out time includes an allen wrench and a beer or two. I don't get it. I'm pretty frustrated at this point. I don't want to send them back or sell them either. I just want to have these dang things fit!

Sorry, no pics just yet. I was too tired and frustrated last night/morning at 2:30 a.m. to take any pics. If I have the gumption and motivation to give it another go today, I'll take some pics and post 'em up.

So, am I a noob or DSM IV: 318.2 ? (look it up if you have to)

PLEASE HELP ME! Please? lease:

Edit: Gen I 2005

 

[mr8ball]

I have the Gen II and have the kinda the same sit up on my bike and it does touch at lock but I have not seen where it bothers anything. I tired all different thins as well so I don't think you can make them work without hitting. Mine does not hit the windshield though. The break and clutch rev hit the dash. I can take some pics if needed

 

[fallenarch]

Something is up. I tried to install mine backwards (yes because I'm stupid) and it's pretty obvious it was in wrong. Besides with the little grinds on the helibars for the bolts that keep them from turning they really aren't meant to go on but one way.

Removing those rubber things might cause vibration issues too. Sounds like you need another option for raising the bars. Helibars are much more precisely engineered than you might think just looking at them, as I discovered.

 

[Sous]

Maybe post some pictures of what is going on. I and many others have heli-bars, genmar .75 riser or soupy's (I had before genmar) and have no clearance issues. I admit that the reservoir is very close to my windshield, but I have no issues with the bars touching the dash panels.

 

[Mr Droo]

Not sure if you saw it or not, but I edited by original post a few minutes after I created this thread to include that this installation is on a First Gen, not Second Gen. I appreciate the offer to take pics of your Second Gen, but I don't think they're needed at this juncture.

I have the Gen II and have the kinda the same sit up on my bike and it does touch at lock but I have not seen where it bothers anything. I tired all different thins as well so I don't think you can make them work without hitting. Mine does not hit the windshield though. The break and clutch rev hit the dash. I can take some pics if needed

I am feeling a smidgen of motivation to actually look at BB again to rectify her upper twigs... I hope sometime today, (certainly before the Spring Bash in a few moons) to get her sorted in order to ride the small journey of 450+ miles to the Bash in style AND comfort. In addition to this motivation, I may even pull out my phone and snap a few pics of her ...disorder of sorts.

If I can't figure out what her deal is all about, I'll give Helibars a ring and get word from the horses mouth why I'm an idiot. I'm re-learning when the subject pronoun, "she" is used, illogical complications and inconceivable events WILL happen. Often they occur without any logistical reason, other than being what's in front of it. "Just because" is the scapegoat excuse.

*I did make sure I received both an "L" and "R" engraved bar, as well as quadruple referencing the model number for 99-07 Busa specific bars. Check, Check, Check.

 

[newman]

I'm sure I read someone had problems with their Helibars, and they tried swapping them over and they were ok.
I might be completely wrong, and it could have been some other bars, or something else to do with bars.

 

[kml]

Helibars won't fit with an aftermarket top clamp. Been there tried that. They only work with the stock handlebar clamp. The aftermarket ones move the the bars too far forward of the fork tubes while the stock clamps position the bars half way over the top of the fork tubes.


cheers
ken

 

[Mr Droo]

DANG! DANG!

So... what are my options here? I am not willing to give up my heli bars!

1. I want to keep the bike lowered and don't know how to keep it that way using the stock top clamp.
2. Is it possible to make the holes in the OEM top clamp larger to allow the fork tubes to go through?
3. I AM willing to take off the aftermarket top clamp and go back to the stocker (after I sand and paint it)...
4. I bought a set of the spacers/risers a while back and used them, but looked kinda wonky. I have them somewhere, but not sure If I have all the hardware anymore, specifically the 1" spacers.
5. Is it possible to use a genmar (or similar) riser AND the helibars?

Alright yall... help me. Spring bash is almost upon us and this needs to be rectified before then.

 

[Sous]

In reference to number 5, yes. A lot of us are using Genmar .75 riser and heli-bars, but mine are on a Gen II. I think you ares still going to run into problems, unless you change the top clamp.

 

[Mr Droo]

I drove home at lunch and put the stocker back on with the risers and helibars. It fits a s-ton better, but the switches hit the puig double bubble and the master cylinders just barely rub it as well. Should I "shape" the edges of the windscreen to get it to fit?

 

[Sous]

You can rotate the bars back or forward just a bit to get more clearance if you need. Then adjust the fluid reservoirs after the switches clear the windshield. Then tighten everything down and you are good to go.

 

[Mr Droo]

I'm hoping you're right, Sous. I don't have it all snugged down yet, which may prove to provide a smidge more clearance than what's seen right now. Thanks!

 

[Timlake]

Roaring toyz top clamp is designed to fit. I have that and a set of heli bars and have no clearance issues. (gen 2)

 

[Mr Droo]

I have it all fixed up. Stock clamp with risers and helibars. Merisey is also getting his top clamp back!

 

[chrisjp]

sounds like a lot of frustration drew...sorry

 

[markenaim]

I drove home at lunch and put the stocker back on with the risers and helibars. It fits a s-ton better, but the switches hit the puig double bubble and the master cylinders just barely rub it as well. Should I "shape" the edges of the windscreen to get it to fit?

Great and chip system,

Also I intend perform this modification for my long range riding.

Couldn't you indicate the diameter(external and for bolt) and high of your riser?

Further I try to construct itr for my '99 busa if is possible.

Many thanks
bye
Markenaim

 

[nectrplnt]

I have the black helibars with ballz triple clamp and lowered about 3/4 of an inch. No issues here, but also no bar risers.

 

[t5stang91]

i have a gen 1 with a aftermarket top clamp,lowered, heli bars and have no issues. bike is not here or i would take a pic. no risers though

 

[akamorpheus]

KML is correct.

 

[Mr Droo]

Yes, KML is correct. The holes for the fork tubes on the aftermarket triple cover are indeed in a different location and won't fit with the helibars. Well, at least she's more comfortable to ride LD.