Help!! FI Warning!!

Mythos

Registered
I need help with this you guys. I am just starting to work on the busa and I am not familiar with its peccadillos yet. Main concern is the FI light and digital display come on when the motor runs. Here’s the story:


50 degree ambient temp. Normal Fall day cold and somewhat humid, overcast no rain.
2008 busa, GenII, about 4K miles, redline breakin, meticulously maintained it's whole life
All fairings removed
Brand new Tsukigi Cannon full system exhaust installed
Brand new header gaskets installed
Header gaskets and pipe fittings coated with a film of Permatex copper spray-a-gasket
Bazzaz Z-Fi installed
Map from HPC (where I bought the pipe and Z-Fi) loaded by me
PAIR block off plates and PAIR coupler terminator plug installed
OEM air filter in good condition installed
Oil level check, normal
Cooling system filled with distilled water (I am flushing the system before replacing engine coolant)

Ignition turned on, speedo/tach/temp gauge sweep and Blue Nuetral indicator light comes on along with red FI light. Normal power up. Bazzaz Z-Fi lights up as well.

Engine starts normally. FI light goes out and motor sounds fine, no visible exhaust, no unusual smell. Runs for about 2 seconds at very low idle.

When idle pics up to normal cold start idle (think it was about 2000 rpm), red FI indicator light comes back on. FI also is displayed flashing on the digital display right below the odometer reading.

Engine sounds normal. Temperature gauge registers nothing (still cold after only 30 seconds).

Start to notice liquid droplets building up inside the tip of the exhaust. I wipe it with finger tips. The liquid is pretty much odorless.

Start to detect unusual smell in the air. Not like gasoline, more like a melting plastic smell (I’m quite sure the smell originates from the exhaust rather than there is something burning against the pipe).

Can detect a barely visible smoke coming from the exhaust when I look closely. I do not think the air in the garage is smokey, very slight haze if anything. Engine temp is still not registering. Distilled water in open radiator is not really even warm yet.

Engine kill switch hit after approximately 3 minutes. Engine shuts down. Ignition key turned off, all electronics power off.

A small stream of smoke curls from the exhaust. Lasts about 30 seconds before it dissipates completely.

Ignition key on, Instruments power up normally. Temp gauge goes straight up to max, in the red zone and stays there even after the needle sweep.

Engine head cover is warm to touch, engine block at the front is a slightly warm, Headpipes are HOT, too hot to touch, radiator and oil cooler are cool, crankcase cover is cold. Muffler is a little warm but comfortable to touch.

Engine was started and run for about 3 minutes today and 3 minutes last night, same conditions, same observations both times the engine ran with the new mods.


I am not so concerned about the smell or even the smoke as this is a brand new, never run exhaust and I did use the spray-a-gasket on every fitting.

The liquid in the pipe may be just condensation. Cold engine heating up on a cool day.

Even the maxed out temperature gauge after shut down might be normal (never had call to notice in the past). The temp goes up after the coolant stops circulating.



Any ideas about what to do about the FI warning indicators?
 
Well, in the 10 minutes it tok me to write this thread, we might just have our answer----maybe?? This is the thread I originally posted on and squal147 was good enough to respond:
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/124352-see-anything-obvious-bazzaz-install-2.html#post2953729

I will still post the ins and outs of this problem right here on this thread. Both threads are joined now. Others with same trouble should find this pretty easy.

Still open to any further advice. The problem is still not solved.

Anyone think I should keep going on my raiator flush?? Hell, I started the bike twice already.
 
Jump the diagnostic plug back by the battery and read the actual code on the dash - it will say "C--"; whatever the last two digits are after the letter C will be the code. Post it here and we will be able to tell you exactly which circuit is acting up . . .:laugh:
 
yea, put a piece of black tape over it like I did so I dont have to look at it every time I use my air shifter....:whistle::laugh:
Had the same idea but I'm afraid there might be something more drastic than a quick fuel cut the bike's not used to. My real concern is what if the bike is running way lean now?---for some undetermined reason. Guess that is how my brain works--worse case scenario.
 
Jump the diagnostic plug back by the battery and read the actual code on the dash - it will say "C--"; whatever the last two digits are after the letter C will be the code. Post it here and we will be able to tell you exactly which circuit is acting up . . .:laugh:
I was going to ask how to read the actual code if no one came up with any ideas. Think I will give that a try but I will need instruction on how to jump. If I recall, there are several contacts on the diagnostic plug. I will take a pic of the diag plug and post it if you would be kind enough to instruct me on this code reading procedure.

You'd think they would just make the code show up on the display immediately. Why the heck do they make us go through the jumping process?
 
in case you have NOT yet seen this (post# 8 in particular): https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/11274-would-good-place-error-codes.html

pic below courtesy of BLANCA: https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...-diagnose-fi-light-obtain-ecu-fault-code.html

91063e16.jpg
 
There's 3 white plugs under the seat. Looks like the one we are talking about is labeled A in the pic I took of my bike.

View attachment 1560713


Damn. Have to go to Lowe's to get wire tomorrow. .....or maybe I got a bread tie around here somewhere.

Will post pic of display tomorrow.
 
Found an old piece of wire in the garage. Here is how/what I jumped. Black and white to red and white.
codejump.jpg


Ignition keyed on. Normal display.
dsplywjumper.jpg


Maybe it is necessary to actually start the motor as Blanca suggests in his thread. Have to wait til tomorrow. Neighbors be pissed if I fire up this time of the night.

Thank you fellas for all the help so far. We'll figure this out.
 
I made a discovery about reading error codes this morning.

YES, you do need to turn the ignition on after jumping the two contacts in the diagnostic plug shown above.
NO, you do not need to start the motor to make the code appear on your display.
YES, you DO need to have your engine kill switch turned to ON or else, this will override the code display and your digital display will function as it normally does w/out the jumper wire in the diagnostic plug.

That was the problem I was having last night. Had my kill switch to OFF, thus no code was showing on my digital. Here's what I got this morning as I was about to start 'er up. Flipped the kill switch ON and saw this:
errorcode.jpg


SO, error code 00 is NO FAULT according to the list that Kromdom was so good to post above in reply #7 (Blanca's write up on how to find error code also is include in that post). I see that the code list was posted on the aformentioned thread in 2004. Long before the a GenII. My bike is GenII so I checked the 2008 SM and found that the code #s are all the same as the GenI but there are additional codes listed in the SM for the GenII.

Here again is the link to the thread that has all other codes. The list is posted on #8. https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/11274-would-good-place-error-codes.html

The following includes all additional codes listed in the 2008 SM list. I have no idea if there are other error codes that are not listed here.

Additional codes in the 2008 SM
C28 STV actuator

C29 STP sensor

C36/C37/C38/C39 Secondary fuel injector

C40/ ISC valve

C44 HO2 sensor

C49 PAIR control solenoid valve

C60 Cooling fan relay

C62 EVAP system purge control solenoid valve (evap emissions bikes only)
 
Yes, well there is more....

Seeing a NO FAULT code, I felt pretty comfortable to start the engine and finish my radiator flush I am working on. As soon as I started the motor, I got a code C-32. Primary fuel injector. As far as I can tell, C-32 indicates the injector to #1 cylinder on the far left--clutch lever side. This is the same thing that was happening to another member's bike. SAme code. That guy tried taking all those bloody plugs out and reversing them. Then he got a code C-35 which apparently is injector #4. Shheesh!

This is starting to gel I think....Defective Z-Fi harness is mentioned by a couple Z-Fi owners. Wish someone could tell me definitively that the defect was that the harness threw a code 32.

Guess I will check the lead connectors between the Z-Fi and the injectors just to follow suit. Prolly be sending the harness in to Bazzaz for a check over.

Thanks, everyone. Sure am glad you guys are around to help. Any new ideas, please post but for now, looks like all I can do is perhaps try a good harness one of our members has offered to lend me. Then wait for Bazzaz to test the old one and send me a one that works.
 
In the interim, anyone have any idea what a "bad" wiring harness from a Z-Fi would be doing to cause the code? IOW, do you think the Bazzaz harness is safely performing the function it was designed to do but it is triggering the code for some other reason?

I mean...I don't hear cylinder #1 missing (I would notice that, wouldn't I?). If the cylinder is firing, It must be getting gasoline according to the map I loaded. ??? right?
 
Wish someone could tell me definitively that the defect was that the harness threw a code 32.

Is it feasible to disconnect the Bazzazz then take the bike for a spin and see if the code DOES NOT come back? Then you can almost say with 100% certainty that the problem is with the unit/harness. Best of luck getting this sorted out.
 
Is it feasible to disconnect the Bazzazz then take the bike for a spin and see if the code DOES NOT come back? Then you can almost say with 100% certainty that the problem is with the unit/harness. Best of luck getting this sorted out.

I no longer have the OEM exhaust on it so I'd be taking a slight risk running on the stock map. Also, IDK how the bike reacts to running on the stock map w/out having the HO2 sensor in place. Seems like that might throw a code even though i have the terminator plug that came with he Z-Fi kit hooked up to the end of the HO2 wire. She's a whole new beast now. The Cannon made such a change in my 14. I think it wil be even more so on the busa. Looks like old man Tsukigi had his thinking cap on when he designed these headpipes.

View attachment 1560768

I do have access to a properly functioning harness. I think I will try that. If there is no code then we know it is a bad harness.

Still wonder what the heck it is that makes the #1 primary send out the distress signal. ...If there are fuel trim signal being sent to #2, 3, 4, why not #1?? All I really care about is burning up cylinder/piston #1 if it is not getting fuel b/c of a bad wire. Yes I would like to stop the FI signals on the dash but for now, I would be happy to justy be able ride it. Worry about fixing stuff over winter.
 
Yes, tremendous girth! :laugh:

The 14's Cannon headpipes are the same diameter the whole way from engine down to where they gather in two. That's what I mean by Tsukigi musta had an idea in his head when he made this one. Really seems like this pipe was made with the busa in mind in terms of styling and performance. One thing I find odd, the 14 Cannon is quite a bit louder than the busa. Really sometimes too much of a good thing. Always I am very conspicuous to coppers whenI'm going fast.

No tickets for sensble sport riding yet.

Got one whopper a few years back on the interstate. NEVER go fast on the interstate.
 
In th einterest of presenting complete info, RE: #12 above:
I made a discovery about reading error codes this morning.

YES, you do need to turn the ignition on after jumping the two contacts in the diagnostic plug shown above.
NO, you do not need to start the motor to make the code appear on your display.
YES, you DO need to have your engine kill switch turned to ON or else, this will override the code display and your digital display will function as it normally does w/out the jumper wire in the diagnostic plug.

That was the problem I was having last night. Had my kill switch to OFF, thus no code was showing on my digital. Here's what I got this morning as I was about to start 'er up. Flipped the kill switch ON and saw this:
errorcode.jpg

....but when starting the bike with diagnostic plug jumped, I see this:
C-32PrimInj1.jpg


...and referencing C-32 error code, we find that to indicate a problem with the #1 primary fuel injector.

I spoke with Francois at Bazzaz today and explained all that I have discovered over the weekend.

He reassured me that no damage has happened to my motor by running it. If it was missing a beat on cylinder #1 I would be able to tell if I knew how it sounded firing on all 4 cylinders.

Francois asked that I do the following before sending the harness AND the control unit in for testing.

Hook the bike back up to my computer on Bazzaz software and:

1. Remove connector leads to Injector #1 and check for bent pins.

2. Check tps. Not necessary to have the bike running, just USB it to -puter and turn the throttle from 0%-100%. Throttle position should register accordingly on the computer.

3. Check engine rpm. With bike USbed, start motor and check that idle is not registering erratically on the computer.

4. Run a "clear map." With the bike USBed to the computer, clear the map from the control unit or switch to Map 2 (which will be blank unless there was a map previously loaded to Map 2). Running a clear map, the ECU defaults to OEM mapping. I am not sure what the point of this is but Francois suggested it. I guess i will note if the FI error is still on and if the engine runs radically different. I expect it will be very much the same except perhaps a lot leaner on the OEM map. Won't be running it long on OEM mapping and only at idle speed. Interesting to see how the OEM mapping/ECU will interact with the disabled exhaust electronics and aftermarket full system.

If all checks out normal, I call Francois back and I expect he will tell me how to send the whole shebang in for testing....but not until after a good ride before winter sets in. :unhappy:
 
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