Hayabusa not charging

[Djmurria]

Awww man. . . . that's a bummer.
Any idea why this happened?
low on oil?
been rattly for a while?
High mleage motor?
Had the living crap thrashed out of it???
You said raced, dragstrip type racing? Or street?

I checked the oil wasnt low and was planning on doing a oil change the next day. Hasnt been making any weird noises or doibg anything. Idk actual mileage on motor. I do know the previous owner rode it real hard and barely took care of it. Drag racing on the track.

damm

from my experience that happened esp. with the ´99 motors.
why? no clue.
but from ´00 on we here had no more such horrible destructions

the 2nd or 3rd piston rod seems to be broken or so
that way at 1st sight the entire motor is wrecked.

eventually the cyl + head, clutch, stator/rotor and the trans can be used again
but only in a "new" crankcase - good luck in finding this.

Valve cover says 07 but aint no telling what it really is. My dad said it probably stacked a bearing looking through the oil pan looks like half the rod journal is scorched. Yea its trash busted both cases. My dad has a couple cranks, rods and a set of cases. So hopefully i can just buy bearings to get it back on the road.

 

[Djmurria]

Idk if i should start a new post for my next question but I'll ask it here.
Ive read the gen 2 crank and bearings have a groove to help with more oil for the rods. Going to be using a gen 1 crank, would gen 2 main bearings help out even though the gen 1 doesn't have the groove on the crank?
Also would yall recommend a oil pan baffle? Planning on ordering a high pressure oil relief, is the high volume gear is not recommended for street use, saw somewhere about it sucking the pan dry or something not to sure.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

@Djmurria
The main bearings and big end bearings are specifically sized to fit the crankcases and the crankshaft, they have markings to follow, so be sure to get it measured by an automotive engineer or at least someone that is familiar with measuring the journal sizes to select the correct bearings for your crankshaft.
The oil clearance MUST be within spec . . guesswork on this is out of the question!
If the work is done properly and all the measurements are accurate and in spec, then there is no need to use 'Gen 2 bearing shells', or a high pressure oil relief valve, or a high volume pump etc IMHO.
Use an engineer with a good rep, you'll be fine.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

@Djmurria
The main bearings and big end bearings are specifically sized to fit the crankcases and the crankshaft, they have markings to follow, so be sure to get it measured by an automotive engineer or at least someone that is familiar with measuring the journal sizes to select the correct bearings for your crankshaft.
The oil clearance MUST be within spec . . guesswork on this is out of the question!
If the work is done properly and all the measurements are accurate and in spec, then there is no need to use 'Gen 2 bearing shells', or a high pressure oil relief valve, or a high volume pump etc IMHO.
Use an engineer with a good rep, you'll be fine.

Hi. My $3,000.00 Marine crank has no groves nor do I use a high volume oil pump gear. I will be shifting at 13,500 RPM. I do have modified oil system and cases by Rick Stetson.

 

[Djmurria]

Hi. My $3,000.00 Marine crank has no groves nor do I use a high volume oil pump gear. I will be shifting at 13,500 RPM. I do have modified oil system and cases by Rick Stetson.

Would you happen to know what's modified. I seen a post with a bunch of oiling mods. Trying to do everything i can to make sure it doesnt die from a oiling issue

@Djmurria
The main bearings and big end bearings are specifically sized to fit the crankcases and the crankshaft, they have markings to follow, so be sure to get it measured by an automotive engineer or at least someone that is familiar with measuring the journal sizes to select the correct bearings for your crankshaft.
The oil clearance MUST be within spec . . guesswork on this is out of the question!
If the work is done properly and all the measurements are accurate and in spec, then there is no need to use 'Gen 2 bearing shells', or a high pressure oil relief valve, or a high volume pump etc IMHO.
Use an engineer with a good rep, you'll be fine.

I went off the the letters on the crank and casings. I know i should have measured but don't have the parts here to be able to. Probably should have went a letter higher though since it's a used crank and those letters are new measurements. This is my only form of transportation at the moment so i have to get it back together asap. I do plan on plastiguaging them to make sure they're within spec. I read mains should be on tighter side of specs and rods should be on looser side for best oiling is that correct

 

[Berlin Germany]

(...) Trying to do everything i can to make sure it doesnt die from a oiling issue (...)

all you have to do is
- to watch the oil level every 2nd or 3rd (full) fuel refill
- to use allways a good oil qualitity and never that most cheap scrab from the store around
- make oilchanges all 6-8000 km (if u only go to the bakery 2 km away and back home all 3000 km)
- watch the oil temp - never run full rpm when oil isn´t at around 85-90 degree celsius

if then again a rod seeks sunshine it couldn´t be your fault - the rod will be the wrongdoer / guilty / the villain.

and the heck how did you find iut that the valve cover should be from 07 ?

 

[Djmurria]

all you have to do is
- to watch the oil level every 2nd or 3rd (full) fuel refill
- to use allways a good oil qualitity and never that most cheap scrab from the store around
- make oilchanges all 6-8000 km (if u only go to the bakery 2 km away and back home all 3000 km)
- watch the oil temp - never run full rpm when oil isn´t at around 85-90 degree celsius

if then again a rod seeks sunshine it couldn´t be your fault - the rod will be the wrongdoer / guilty / the villain.

and the heck how did you find iut that the valve cover should be from 07 ?

I'll make sure I follow all of that. I have to figure out whats going on with my speedo so I can go by mileage.
Ive been running it on lucas synthetic. Going to try to get some amsoil and a zinc additive to break this one in. Then run just amsoil or gibbs if I can find it locally.
Its wrote on top lol.
Found out from my dad since this was one of his old friends bike that a guy pretty much just built a busa from parts he had around or something like that around maybe 08 or 09 and his friend bought it. my dad said it was a strong bike then and when we got it running right it still was, after my dad moved from down there though it ran into crappy mechanics then started sitting. Its 01 frame. Idk what year the actual insides are on engine but valve cover has the 07 written on it, has 02-07 electronics ecu for sure. Has 05 red and black nose and side fairings, 06 burgundy tank and a black tail from idk where lol. Trying to get it painted but it keeps taking my paint funds.
Decided to wait and not rush going to measure everything when I get my hands on it from my dad and go from there that way I can make sure this dosent happen again but it was probably time for a rebuild on it when I got it too.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Going to try to get some amsoil and a zinc additive to break this one in. Then run just amsoil or gibbs if I can find it locally.

Please oh please do not put zinc in your engine! It is a highly reactive compound and in large quantities causes internal corrosion! If you are not familiar with this engineer please read the following. Search the page for "AFTERMARKET ZINC ADDITIVES – DO THEY WORK?"

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

540ratblog.wordpress.com

 

[Djmurria]

Please oh please do not put zinc in your engine! It is a highly reactive compound and in large quantities causes internal corrosion! If you are not familiar with this engineer please read the following. Search the page for "AFTERMARKET ZINC ADDITIVES – DO THEY WORK?"

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

540ratblog.wordpress.com

I'll check that out but I thought the difference in break in oil and "regular" oil was the amount of zinc

 

[Djmurria]

Please oh please do not put zinc in your engine! It is a highly reactive compound and in large quantities causes internal corrosion! If you are not familiar with this engineer please read the following. Search the page for "AFTERMARKET ZINC ADDITIVES – DO THEY WORK?"

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

540ratblog.wordpress.com

Well after reading that going to run the best conventional oil. Yamalube which is actually what I used to run in my bandit. Also probably killed my motor running it on the lucas since its not meant for street use. Live and u learn, just gotta pay the stupid tax every now and then

 

[Bumblebee]

Well after reading that going to run the best conventional oil. Yamalube which is actually what I used to run in my bandit. Also probably killed my motor running it on the lucas since its not meant for street use. Live and u learn, just gotta pay the stupid tax every now and then

Hayabusas run on synthetic oil-it calls for it in the manual...Amsoil or Royal Purple is what I use.

Which Bandit did you have?

 

[Djmurria]

Hayabusas run on synthetic oil-it calls for it in the manual...Amsoil or Royal Purple is what I use.

Which Bandit did you have?

I thought no synthetic on new builds to help rings seat? Just planned on running it for 1000 miles or 1 or 2 track days whichever come first. Synthetic after that.
I had a 01 bandit 1200
Crazy thing is the motor blew on this bike on the other side of the interstate the same exact distance from this bridge that this one did

 

[Bumblebee]

I thought no synthetic on new builds to help rings seat? Just planned on running it for 1000 miles or 1 or 2 track days whichever come first. Synthetic after that.
I had a 01 bandit 1200
Crazy thing is the motor blew on this bike on the other side of the interstate the same exact distance from this bridge that this one did

View attachment 1636429

That IS crazy...rarely do you hear of an engine blowing on either bike...

I went in the manual and it just states 10W40 oil of a specific type-nothing on synthetic...it must have been another bike I was thinking of...

I had a gen 1 1200 Bandit...it was a fun bike and I did a whole pile of mods to it.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I'll check that out but I thought the difference in break in oil and "regular" oil was the amount of zinc

"Break-in" today is a kind of a religious argument and I am unqualified, as just about most people are, with particulars. But just read this. @Boosted Cycle Perf is a sponsor of this site. He is well-respected for adding turbos and superchargers to all kinds of bikes. Here he explains the reaction of new modern engines, as he a professional physically monitors them during the process. He puts on a turbo, and for a brand new engine revs it to the moon.

05' bolt on turbo kit? | Turbo

IDK, looking at the pic of parts it looks like you'd just tear down the bike to the point like your doing an air filter and full exhaust install..... Basically everything there from the intake side of engine ad the exhaust side.... No new injectors or this n that. If you get the right kit I’m...

www.hayabusa.org

Yes that off-road oil with excessive zinc is bad for engine internals. No, the zinc nor the synthetic aspect did not kill your engine. There were other factors involved, so do not worry about it.

If you look at that 540 Rat engineer's ratings list of oils, motorcycle-specific oils are at the very bottom. He is doing an ASTM metal scoring test and motorcycle oils are outright terrible on that test! For parts that contact each other, like valves, rings, gears, the motorcycle oils (except the boutique ones) are utter failures. That pretty much indicates that these motors are so balanced, so well-made, they will be fine with just about any oil. Just use a motorcycle oil for the clutch. Don't spend $20 per quart, do not get a generic oil but then do not worry about oil at all like you today, and pick any oil in between. Feel free to use a synthetic too. If you like the shifting of a conventional you find, for goodness sake use that. Forget about the crowd that lives and dies by their boutique oils and laboratory oil analysis. They are some kind of nuts and they have misled many people.

For any of you who are racing and generating massive power, 540 Rat has published that the new Quaker State synthetic in the green bottle is a miracle on the metal scoring test compared to anything he has ever tested. I have no idea if that will work with a wet clutch, right? But if I had massive money in a high-power engine, and it worked with a particular clutch setup, that is what I would use right now to extend the life of every expensive component inside my motor.

 

[Djmurria]

That IS crazy...rarely do you hear of an engine blowing on either bike...

I went in the manual and it just states 10W40 oil of a specific type-nothing on synthetic...it must have been another bike I was thinking of...

I had a gen 1 1200 Bandit...it was a fun bike and I did a whole pile of mods to it.

I guess i got bad luck with bike engines lol.
i believe that's what the yamalube conventional is. Its #36 on the chart hayabusa wannabe posted but the first conventional with no additives. Then switch to amsoil signature series #2 since its says #1 not good for wet clutch bikes.
That bike was fun when i could get it to run right. If i put more then a gallon or so in it itd flood all the cylinders figured out it was the petcock and i think from all the times it diluted the oil it ate the bearings up.
Its funny though how newer 600s make more hp and 750s make more tq then those. I was planning on doing a bunch of mods to mine but when i saw that i just scratched that idea and went back to looking for a hayabusa

 

[Djmurria]

"Break-in" today is a kind of a religious argument and I am unqualified, as just about most people are, with particulars. But just read this. @Boosted Cycle Perf is a sponsor of this site. He is well-respected for adding turbos and superchargers to all kinds of bikes. Here he explains the reaction of new modern engines, as he a professional physically monitors them during the process. He puts on a turbo, and for a brand new engine revs it to the moon.

05' bolt on turbo kit? | Turbo

IDK, looking at the pic of parts it looks like you'd just tear down the bike to the point like your doing an air filter and full exhaust install..... Basically everything there from the intake side of engine ad the exhaust side.... No new injectors or this n that. If you get the right kit I’m...

www.hayabusa.org

Yes that off-road oil with excessive zinc is bad for engine internals. No, the zinc nor the synthetic aspect did not kill your engine. There were other factors involved, so do not worry about it.

If you look at that 540 Rat engineer's ratings list of oils, motorcycle-specific oils are at the very bottom. He is doing an ASTM metal scoring test and motorcycle oils are outright terrible on that test! For parts that contact each other, like valves, rings, gears, the motorcycle oils (except the boutique ones) are utter failures. That pretty much indicates that these motors are so balanced, so well-made, they will be fine with just about any oil. Just use a motorcycle oil for the clutch. Don't spend $20 per quart, do not get a generic oil but then do not worry about oil at all like you today, and pick any oil in between. Feel free to use a synthetic too. If you like the shifting of a conventional you find, for goodness sake use that. Forget about the crowd that lives and dies by their boutique oils and laboratory oil analysis. They are some kind of nuts and they have misled many people.

For any of you who are racing and generating massive power, 540 Rat has published that the new Quaker State synthetic in the green bottle is a miracle on the metal scoring test compared to anything he has ever tested. I have no idea if that will work with a wet clutch, right? But if I had massive money in a high-power engine, and it worked with a particular clutch setup, that is what I would use right now to extend the life of every expensive component inside my motor.

From what it seems just run a good quality oil, was thinking way too hard into break in.
I know it wasn't the main factor but i did put quite a few miles on the street with it and rode it almost 300 miles only stopping for gas which that oil wasn't meant for.
From that chart im going to use yamalube #36 for the first 1000 miles or so and then switch to amsoil signature series #2 since i can get for the same price as lucas at orielys. I don't have alot of money in my set up but do want it to last a long time since im limited on rebuild funds. I don't really care about synthetic or conventional just want what works best at a reasonable price.
Doesnt seem like it takes much to satisfy the motorcycle oil specs most are under 90k on that test so going that extra bit in theory should help it live longer

 

[Bumblebee]

I guess i got bad luck with bike engines lol.
i believe that's what the yamalube conventional is. Its #36 on the chart hayabusa wannabe posted but the first conventional with no additives. Then switch to amsoil signature series #2 since its says #1 not good for wet clutch bikes.
That bike was fun when i could get it to run right. If i put more then a gallon or so in it itd flood all the cylinders figured out it was the petcock and i think from all the times it diluted the oil it ate the bearings up.
Its funny though how newer 600s make more hp and 750s make more tq then those. I was planning on doing a bunch of mods to mine but when i saw that i just scratched that idea and went back to looking for a hayabusa

I'd say you had carb problems flooding the cylinders as the petcock is vacuum fed. I was always fussing over the carbs on my Bandit (and all the other carbureted bikes I had).

I've used either Amsoil or Royal Purple for many years and many bikes with zero issues... @WuzzaCBXRider uses Amsoil as well as I'm sure many others do.

 

[Djmurria]

I'd say you had carb problems flooding the cylinders as the petcock is vacuum fed. I was always fussing over the carbs on my Bandit (and all the other carbureted bikes I had).

I've used either Amsoil or Royal Purple for many years and many bikes with zero issues... @WuzzaCBXRider uses Amsoil as well as I'm sure many others do.

I rebuilt the carbs and adjusted the floats so many different ways, even took to somebody else and had them rebuild and adjust thats when they told me about the petcock. Itd run right but when youd cut it off all the fuel would leak into the cylinders

 

[Bumblebee]

I rebuilt the carbs and adjusted the floats so many different ways, even took to somebody else and had them rebuild and adjust thats when they told me about the petcock. Itd run right but when youd cut it off all the fuel would leak into the cylinders

Sounds like the needle valve seats were pooched....there is always some fuel in the lines and the needle valves when functioning properly prevents fuel from overfilling the carbs and leeching into the cylinders...

Hopefully you get your current bike sorted out and get out into the wind again...

I just did an oil change on my 'ol beastie today...good 'ol Amsoil went in it along with an OEM filter.

 

[Djmurria]

Sounds like the needle valve seats were pooched....there is always some fuel in the lines and the needle valves when functioning properly prevents fuel from overfilling the carbs and leeching into the cylinders...

Hopefully you get your current bike sorted out and get out into the wind again...

I just did an oil change on my 'ol beastie today...good 'ol Amsoil went in it along with an OEM filter.

2 sets of rebuild kits those were replaced each time on all 4.
Hopefully should be running this weekend. Should've next day air instead of 2 day air the bearings and 6th gear so it couldve been fixed this weekend.