Hayabusa not charging

[Djmurria]

Hey guys trying to see if yall can help me out again.
My bike isnt charging. It was holding 12.6 before now itll drop about .1v every 2 seconds or so even holding it at or above 4.5k.
Would the stator or rectifier need to be replaced? Or both.
Also i had to replace the harness a while back and the one i got the plug for the rectifier was cutoff so we butt connected the wires. Does the orientation of the yellow wires on the rectifier matter. It was 3 yellow wires that were the same so i connected those but didn't know if they had to go a certain way since all were the same color.
I did just check i see one is the signal line and 2 are charging lines but how do you know which are which on the harness.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Ya need to test the stator output voltage . . test each of the 3 yellow wires for the AC voltage output, the procedure is outlined in the service manual.
The connections to the reg/rectifier that have been cut need to be soldered properly, these connections MUST be good enough that they do NOT heat up!
The 3 yellow wires are separate phases coming from the stator/generator.
It does not matter about orientation to the reg/rect 3 yellow wires.
The output voltage should be around 20v AC at idle speed (1200rpm) and around a minimum of 70v AC at 5000rpm, and that is for EACH separate phase!
Go to the service manual, it will be your best friend!

 

[Berlin Germany]

the heck - allways the same missing main infos
1. gen1?
2. what y.o.c. ?

i suppose gen1

if i´m right look at my homepage here and here
and if the yellow wires are never more bright but light or dark brown and stiff ´n hard replace those 3 yellow wires by new with dia = 2.5² - see here what i mean
(this job - new wires - i did at a ´02 with full success 2 days ago)

in general:
the volts, measured at the batterie, need to be around 13.8 - 14.2 (DCC)
- lower no charge
- higher (over 15) the batt is going to be killed by the voltage.

if the rect. is gone see here

and i repeat @Kiwi Rider ´s last sentence.

for the future get the entire gen1 manual incl. all extensions (´00 - ´07) a.s.a.p.

 

[Djmurria]

Ya need to test the stator output voltage . . test each of the 3 yellow wires for the AC voltage output, the procedure is outlined in the service manual.
The connections to the reg/rectifier that have been cut need to be soldered properly, these connections MUST be good enough that they do NOT heat up!
The 3 yellow wires are separate phases coming from the stator/generator.
It does not matter about orientation to the reg/rect 3 yellow wires.
The output voltage should be around 20v AC at idle speed (1200rpm) and around a minimum of 70v AC at 5000rpm, and that is for EACH separate phase!
Go to the service manual, it will be your best friend!

Ok thanks. Definitely need to get a manual, between me and my dad we shouldve been had one lol. Probably could keep me from bothering yall lol. I'll get the manual that way i can do the procedure, and solder the wires then I'll let yall know but thanks so much for the info.

the heck - allways the same missing main infos
1. gen1?
2. what y.o.c. ?

i suppose gen1

if i´m right look at my homepage here and here
and if the yellow wires are never more bright but light or dark brown and stiff ´n hard replace those 3 yellow wires by new with dia = 2.5² - see here what i mean
(this job - new wires - i did at a ´02 with full success 2 days ago)

in general:
the volts, measured at the batterie, need to be around 13.8 - 14.2 (DCC)
- lower no charge
- higher (over 15) the batt is going to be killed by the voltage.

if the rect. is gone see here

and i repeat @Kiwi Rider ´s last sentence.

for the future get the entire gen1 manual incl. all extensions (´00 - ´07) a.s.a.p.

Sorry my bad. Gen 1, dont know what y.o.c means. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction though and giving me stuff to try. Going to try to find a manual today.

 

[Dopey]

Ok thanks. Definitely need to get a manual, between me and my dad we shouldve been had one lol. Probably could keep me from bothering yall lol. I'll get the manual that way i can do the procedure, and solder the wires then I'll let yall know but thanks so much for the info.

Sorry my bad. Gen 1, dont know what y.o.c means. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction though and giving me stuff to try. Going to try to find a manual today.

@Kiwi Rider gave you the specs for what the stator should be during test so if you lookup a video on YouTube most motorcyle stator tests are done the same way

 

[Djmurria]

@Kiwi Rider gave you the specs for what the stator should be during test so if you lookup a video on YouTube most motorcyle stator tests are done the same way

Ok thanks. Actually went to download the manual and its been on my phone this whole time‍‍ but its for 08 up can't find where i can download for gen 1. Are they pretty much the same

 

[Dopey]

Ok thanks. Actually went to download the manual and its been on my phone this whole time‍‍ but its for 08 up can't find where i can download for gen 1. Are they pretty much the same

Some of the stuff will be close by its best to have the one for your exact bike. With kiwis specs and the step by step in the manual for testing you'll be able to test the stator with that manual till u get the right one

 

[kml]

Ok thanks. Actually went to download the manual and its been on my phone this whole time‍‍ but its for 08 up can't find where i can download for gen 1. Are they pretty much the same

HayabusaServiceManual-1999-2000.pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Suzuki_Hayabusa_Microfiche.pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Suzuki_Hayabusa-2001-update.pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Suzuki_Hayabusa-2002-update.pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Suzuki_Hayabusa_Owner_Manual.pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[Djmurria]

Some of the stuff will be close by its best to have the one for your exact bike. With kiwis specs and the step by step in the manual for testing you'll be able to test the stator with that manual till u get the right one

Ok thanks gotta get back to dallas to work on it.

HayabusaServiceManual-1999-2000.pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Suzuki_Hayabusa_Microfiche.pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Suzuki_Hayabusa-2001-update.pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Suzuki_Hayabusa-2002-update.pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Suzuki_Hayabusa_Owner_Manual.pdf

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Thank u so much all the links i kept finding were dead

 

[Berlin Germany]

Sorry my bad. Gen 1, dont know what y.o.c means.

year of construction

 

[Djmurria]

year of construction

Its a mutt lol. Title says 01, engine says 07 on top and has body fairings minus tank from like a 05 i believe lol

 

[BlueBacon]

I had the exact same issue and it ended up being the rectifier + battery. I would still test the stator if you are able to do so. All three parts are usually over $100 so test what you can first!

 

[Berlin Germany]

Its a mutt lol. Title says 01, engine says 07 on top and has body fairings minus tank from like a 05 i believe lol

that tells me that your bike might run with 16bit (ecu / rotor and wiring)
contrary to all laters (´02-´07) with 32bit.

you see now why o asked so precise for the y.o.c.?

at the gen1 the y.o.c. is partly strongly requested to know.

now follow my posting (#3 above) and you will! find the troublemaker.

4 days ago i built the 4th or 5th new harness 4 a gen1 from generators plug till rectif´s plug
and the batt is best charged now again.

 

[Djmurria]

that tells me that your bike might run with 16bit (ecu / rotor and wiring)
contrary to all laters (´02-´07) with 32bit.

you see now why o asked so precise for the y.o.c.?

at the gen1 the y.o.c. is partly strongly requested to know.

now follow my posting (#3 above) and you will! find the troublemaker.

4 days ago i built the 4th or 5th new harness 4 a gen1 from generators plug till rectif´s plug
and the batt is best charged now again.

It has 02-07 electronics for sure.

 

[Djmurria]

Almost forgot to update yall.
Replaced wire with 10awg. Ohmed stator all were within spec, did voltage test all were 85v or higher at 5k. Then did the rectifier diode test didnt pass. Put my dads rectifier from his bike on still wouldnt go above like 12.8ish volts. Put stator on and bike now holds 13+v with fan and high beam on. Thanks for the help again. Would be just throwing parts at it without yall

 

[Djmurria]

Well got it charging and running right. Rode and raced on saturday. Rode from dallas to san antonio on Sunday. Rode 5 miles Monday and this happened

 

[Bumblebee]

Well got it charging and running right. Rode and raced on saturday. Rode from dallas to san antonio on Sunday. Rode 5 miles Monday and this happened
View attachment 1636326

View attachment 1636327

Holy crap! That's a big hole......

 

[Djmurria]

Holy crap! That's a big hole......

Mf rod wanted to play peak a boo

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Mf rod wanted to play peak a boo

Awww man. . . . that's a bummer.
Any idea why this happened?
low on oil?
been rattly for a while?
High mleage motor?
Had the living crap thrashed out of it???
You said raced, dragstrip type racing? Or street?

 

[Berlin Germany]

damm

from my experience that happened esp. with the ´99 motors.
why? no clue.
but from ´00 on we here had no more such horrible destructions

the 2nd or 3rd piston rod seems to be broken or so
that way at 1st sight the entire motor is wrecked.

eventually the cyl + head, clutch, stator/rotor and the trans can be used again
but only in a "new" crankcase - good luck in finding this.