stangfreak91
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does anyone know how. thanks
Hayabusa front wheel removal
- Thread starter stangfreak91
- Start date
After you put the bike up on a set of stands. Loosen the 2 pinch bolts on the right side of the bike, then loosen the axle....it takes a special tool that doesn't come in the stock tool kit. Then you have to remove both brake calipers, hold them up and out of the way with a bungie cord and a couple of rags for now. Now loosen the pinch bolts on the left side and remove the axle. Install in the reverse order.
and you will have to remove the bolts on the fender for the tire to clear.
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SpeedyMick
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The front mudguard gets in the way so take out the allen key bolts that hld it on.
its a good idea to wedge something between the brake pads (around the same thickness as the brake disc. Don,t forget to put a smear of grease on the axle.
While you have the front up on a stand before you start anything,just check for bearing movement from side to side, it is easy to change them. Mine went at approx 16000 miles.
its a good idea to wedge something between the brake pads (around the same thickness as the brake disc. Don,t forget to put a smear of grease on the axle.
While you have the front up on a stand before you start anything,just check for bearing movement from side to side, it is easy to change them. Mine went at approx 16000 miles.
Bronto
Registered
As much as I pull the front wheel off. I don't have speacial tools or stands. Just use what have.
24mm hex head tool is needed to loosen the axle. I got a 16mm x 5" bolt from the hardware store. Use a monkey wrench close in on the bolt head.
To lift the front wheel off the ground. Use a nylon tie down strape looped over a garage rafter. The kind with a rachet tightening device on one end. It'll lift the front off the ground just using it's rachet.
One concession to an official tool is a 6mm rachet socket mounted allen wrench. It gets used allot elsewhere on the bike.
Proceedure is while the front wheel is still on the groud. Loosen the axle first. Remove the fender. Some recommend removing the calipers also. But leave the brake lines connected. Supporting the calipers so there's no forces pulling on the brake lines. Wrap em up in a towel and string tie them to the fairing somewhere
The trick getting the axle removed is loosening the pinch bolts on the Hex head axle side. Leave the opposite pinch bolts tight. This hold the axle while loosening the axle nut side.
After it's loose, leave in place loose.en the opposite side pinch bolts.
Now it's time to lift the front wheel off the ground.
A trick when replacing the front tire. To align the axle up. Use a thin board under the tire to leverage the wheel up into position.
I had chipped a front brake pad when putting the caliper onto the rotor. Extra caution I'll use next time.
24mm hex head tool is needed to loosen the axle. I got a 16mm x 5" bolt from the hardware store. Use a monkey wrench close in on the bolt head.
To lift the front wheel off the ground. Use a nylon tie down strape looped over a garage rafter. The kind with a rachet tightening device on one end. It'll lift the front off the ground just using it's rachet.
One concession to an official tool is a 6mm rachet socket mounted allen wrench. It gets used allot elsewhere on the bike.
Proceedure is while the front wheel is still on the groud. Loosen the axle first. Remove the fender. Some recommend removing the calipers also. But leave the brake lines connected. Supporting the calipers so there's no forces pulling on the brake lines. Wrap em up in a towel and string tie them to the fairing somewhere
The trick getting the axle removed is loosening the pinch bolts on the Hex head axle side. Leave the opposite pinch bolts tight. This hold the axle while loosening the axle nut side.
After it's loose, leave in place loose.en the opposite side pinch bolts.
Now it's time to lift the front wheel off the ground.
A trick when replacing the front tire. To align the axle up. Use a thin board under the tire to leverage the wheel up into position.
I had chipped a front brake pad when putting the caliper onto the rotor. Extra caution I'll use next time.
bronc3
Registered
Don't have the tables in front of me, but the 24 mm crosses to an SAE bolt size which I think is 15/16 (head size). I found a standard size bolt to fashion as the same tool described above. Depending on how tall your stand is, you may only have to remove the front four fender bolts and simply pivot the fender up on the rear two. Gave me plenty of clearance.
hey all. on my fz1 it had a similar type setup. what u can do is look thru your sparkplug sockets and find one that fits into the wheel axle, backwards. keep looking and there is most likely one there. then just if u can insert your ratchet into the socket again going thru the socket itself.
the one i had fit for my fz1 would not allow me to get the ratchet thru the socket so had to use a pipewrech on the socket to remove
I went out and bought a front wheel stand and tired this too, never could get the front tire off every thing was loose the axle would not come out for some reason, it just moved back and forth only.
I guess other than changing the front tire I do not need a front stand and took it back and the tire to the shop to have them change it only a $20 difference.
Good luck with yours.
I guess other than changing the front tire I do not need a front stand and took it back and the tire to the shop to have them change it only a $20 difference.
Good luck with yours.
If it is a 24mm hex head you need, go to your local home depot in the hardware section(usually where the small metal rack is) and purchase a 5/8 Inch- 11 X 2-1/8 Inch coupling nut..Fits directly into axle nut and is long enough so you can put a 15/16 socket and breaker bar on it...It costs a little over $2
Sandow
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I realize that but wasn't sure where i should put the post i found it helpfulyou just responded to a 14 year old post.....
Sandow
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Its all good. We all appreciate some help here. But you wont get a response from the guy who asked in the first place. He wasnt online since 2008.
Maybe make a own thread and introduce yourself and post some pics of your bike!
ROY D. MERCER
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I appreciate the information and help.
Mythos
Registered
Here's how I do it. Already replied to your post only tutorial.
www.hayabusa.org
Front Wheel Removal, Gen2 Hayabusa | Maintenance and Do-It-Yourself
Front Wheel Removal also, LINK: Rear Wheel Removal Be careful with rotors. Lean the wheels against a wall when they are removed or place them on a wheel stand. Do not lay the wheels on the ground or let them bump against objects. The axles are often very tight from the factory. You may wish...
ROY D. MERCER
Registered
Or just spend $8 on Amazon smh
I am new here. But I have been lurking and researching this amazing forum. 
Why are old internet forum posts considered "off limits?" It makes no sense at all. There is no such thing as old web forum posts? They are all valid, and they all contain valuable nuggets. The 5/8" coupling nut is a genius solution and I wish I had read that before buying a special tool from Amazon which still hasn't arrived in time to finish changing my front tire.
Why are old internet forum posts considered "off limits?" It makes no sense at all. There is no such thing as old web forum posts? They are all valid, and they all contain valuable nuggets. The 5/8" coupling nut is a genius solution and I wish I had read that before buying a special tool from Amazon which still hasn't arrived in time to finish changing my front tire.
We don't insult people for going into old posts, we often remind them they may not get a response as most of the people on many old posts are no longer using the forum.
As for the older posts-of course they have value, that's why the search function is so handy.....It's when people post on old thread expecting someone to respond is generally when we step in and correct them..
If you have been "lurking" for any length of time, you'd have picked up on this.
The responses within this thread pretty much sum it all up.
As for the older posts-of course they have value, that's why the search function is so handy.....It's when people post on old thread expecting someone to respond is generally when we step in and correct them..
If you have been "lurking" for any length of time, you'd have picked up on this.
The responses within this thread pretty much sum it all up.
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