Has anyone experienced this braking problem?

[Busarider007]

Interesting! I never thought about it, I'll change them today. Any standard washer should work, right?

[E Zurcher]

It's possible the port on your master cylinder is blocked or you just got a bum part. Is your fluid level going down as you pump the lever and release?

[skydivr]

Once you get air in the Master, it can take a long time to get it to prime/start grabbing fluid...

When you grip/release lever, are you doing it slow, or fast. Slow down, watch for fluid to drain out of cup and air bubble to rise from the bottom (that means fluid is flowing into the MC). It could take you a half hour or more to get it to 'bite'....

You can also get a blake bleeder kit and pull the air out of the master from the caliper end...not necessary but it can help sometimes.

[Busarider007]

Fixed!! removed the pads and pushed the pistons on the calipers back, replaced with new pads.
Pumped a bit and the pressure came back to normal.
As skydivr said, I noticed air bubbles come out of the MC with the slow grip/release method.

I think the old pads were too worn out for the pistons to apply any pressure. Thanks all for your input, really helped.

[james1300]

I use a Mity-Vac to bleed motorcycle brakes. Did you prime the master cylinder?
Did you bleed the master cylinder?

[E Zurcher]

Glad you figured it out.

[Busarider007]

I use a Mity-Vac to bleed motorcycle brakes. Did you prime the master cylinder?
Did you bleed the master cylinder?

How do you bleed the master cylinder?

[skydivr]

How do you bleed the master cylinder?

Exact same way you bleed the calipers. In fact, it's better to bleed the master FIRST. you can't miss the bleed valve it's on top.

The key is to crack the valve as you close the grip; and don't let up on the grip until AFTER you retighten the valve....

A slower pump is better due to the viscosity of the fluid...

[Busarider007]

I don't think the Gen I has M/C bleed valves, it's probably on the newer versions.