Has anyone ever installed a Air/Fuel ratio gage
- Thread starter kawiboy11
- Start date
If you mean wideband, like the one from Dynojet..wideband commander, cool. If you mean the little Air / Fuel gauges, I'd say dont waste your time unless you like the "cool" light flashing all round the bezel from rich to lean about 10times a minute..
Wideband, either Dynojet, AEM, FJO, Innovatemotorsports etc... normally supply a "bung" to weld into the exhaust pipe. I use a Uni-bit, drilling a 3/4" hole as near to the collector as possible (where all pipes meet), orientate the sensor to the outboard or inboard at slightly upward angle on the cable end (prevents trapped moisture in exhaust from settleing on sensor). Run cable to the cnvertor/power box, usually a small (cigarette pack size) box which can be mounted trunk or next to batter/under fuel tank. Run the gauge cable up the frame to the gauge. Connect wires for ground, power and "remote" or backlight wire.
The closer to the merge the more accurate, and quicker they will heat-up. I personally like the LC-1 available from Innovatemotorsports, it has a small in-line converter box, includes input/output connection availability used for logging etc. I believe the Dynojet wideband commander has the same features, just uses a separate conv. box. Hope this helps.
Wideband, either Dynojet, AEM, FJO, Innovatemotorsports etc... normally supply a "bung" to weld into the exhaust pipe. I use a Uni-bit, drilling a 3/4" hole as near to the collector as possible (where all pipes meet), orientate the sensor to the outboard or inboard at slightly upward angle on the cable end (prevents trapped moisture in exhaust from settleing on sensor). Run cable to the cnvertor/power box, usually a small (cigarette pack size) box which can be mounted trunk or next to batter/under fuel tank. Run the gauge cable up the frame to the gauge. Connect wires for ground, power and "remote" or backlight wire.
The closer to the merge the more accurate, and quicker they will heat-up. I personally like the LC-1 available from Innovatemotorsports, it has a small in-line converter box, includes input/output connection availability used for logging etc. I believe the Dynojet wideband commander has the same features, just uses a separate conv. box. Hope this helps.
CrashBomb
Registered
CAT3 is correct, do not waste your time with anything that isn't a wideband O2 sensor that will give you an actual "something:1" ratio on the gauge face, none of these flashing lights or bar graphs or millivolts or anything because they WILL drive you crazy. Imagine pinning the throttle in third gear and trying to do the math in your head to decide whether .953 is rich enough or too rich or maybe it's...*crash*
I like the LC-1 as well, I've got Innovate gauges and data systems in all my cars and will be buying another for the 'busa before the turbo goes on.
I like the LC-1 as well, I've got Innovate gauges and data systems in all my cars and will be buying another for the 'busa before the turbo goes on.
turb06LE240
Registered
I bought the Zeitronix Unit, It tels you a lot more than a regular wideband, Mine is set up to read manifold pressure Exauhst temp, TPS, and A/F. They can do more and start at 279, then you can add the LCD screen for anouther $129, then the egt for 79, map for 109, ect. Plus you can hook it to a laptop or to a palm pilot. You can check out there site..
WWW.Zeitronix.com
They answer emails super fast, but its addictive, my Zeitronix bill came to $800, but compared to other systems feature for feature you cant beat it..
Good luck, as far as installing CAT3 is rite there with it
WWW.Zeitronix.com
They answer emails super fast, but its addictive, my Zeitronix bill came to $800, but compared to other systems feature for feature you cant beat it..
Good luck, as far as installing CAT3 is rite there with it
turb06LE240 ( is this e talk for 2006 Turbo Hayabusa putting down 240whp?) Anyway, how much on-board data logging time with just the wideband hooked up/no other parameters? Will be checking that setup out. I loved my LM-1 and LC-1 setups, and will be going LC-1 most likely on my Busa. Matter of fact, I just sold my old LM-1 which I used in my Race Camaro. GL and let us know which you pick and of course pics during install are always wanted
turb06LE240
Registered
m not sure on how much log time with just the wideband, I'll ask them tonight...
Yes this is for the 06 240 hp turbo bike, I just wanted something infront of me to watch incase I go lean {lots of stuff can happen PC3 fails, njectors fail, fuel pump fails, ect.} plus the ZT has a warnning light that will light when the parmemeters that you enter are broken....
PLus the egt, map, and tps are bnuses, and the price- you can get the setup with a regular gauge for around 300, but I bought everything...
And I also had a few guys recomend it,
Burt at 1320
And a couple freinds of mine that run supercharged Chevy's use them, they are pretty wild.....
Yes this is for the 06 240 hp turbo bike, I just wanted something infront of me to watch incase I go lean {lots of stuff can happen PC3 fails, njectors fail, fuel pump fails, ect.} plus the ZT has a warnning light that will light when the parmemeters that you enter are broken....
PLus the egt, map, and tps are bnuses, and the price- you can get the setup with a regular gauge for around 300, but I bought everything...
And I also had a few guys recomend it,
Burt at 1320
And a couple freinds of mine that run supercharged Chevy's use them, they are pretty wild.....
The regular Air Fuel gauges tap into an existing narrow band O2 sensor. Since you dont have one, unless your a CA model, you would still have to drill and weld in a bung, then buy and install a narrow band o2 sensor. Not sure on any of the others, but Innovate uses Bosch heated wideband which is commonly used on VW and other production cars, so the sensor to replace only cost about $60, some are as high as $300, but the accuracy b/w them is nil. Narrow bands are only accurate at stoich, or 14.7:1 afr. Other than that the have a non-linear swing to the voltage so the "cute" little lights flashes from one end to the other rapidly A LOT and after a few minutes "cute" becomes "annoying." Your Busa should cruise and idle around 14.7:1 or again, stoich. So the lights would hover around the middle, green area. ANY throttle change will send those lights flashing one side or another, and back-n-forth. WOT you want your bikes AFR set IAW the build, use etc... e.g. a turbo Busa may want an AFR of 11.5:1, slightly richer than prime power, but the extra fuel keeps the cyl temps down and produces more torque...whereas if it were 12.5:1 (this is accepted afr that makes "peak" torque, it may blow a head gasket, melt a piston etc..(kawiboy11 @ Dec. 22 2006,05:23) Well, that's all intense, so the normal air/fuel would just be for looks? What does it install to?
In theory, the follow AFR are prescribed
13.1:1 = peak hp (use for Naturally Aspirated, hp likes less fuel)
12.5:1 = peak tq (use for NA, tq likes more fuel)
You adjust from there and dial your combo in. You simply cannot do that with a narrow band O2 sensor, you can get it in the ball park, but the park can be big enough to allow too lean or rich, sacrificing the engine or power!
Here is Innovates products. LC-1 is the most compact WB I know of, but haven't been looking around much lately.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTS.php
And like the ZT, you can accessorize it to log an Approx Arse Load of different parameters, depending on how much info you need.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTS.php
And like the ZT, you can accessorize it to log an Approx Arse Load of different parameters, depending on how much info you need.
hayabusa99b/w
Registered
more work than it's worth!! would look cool though
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