Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Hulk Smash Frame Sliders!

[Vonderbach]

So I've been delaying this frame slider install for MONTHS. I finally got everything prepared and got the nerve to start tearing into the bike with the ultimate goal of ripping two giant holes in my very expensive fairings. So I get the fairing off, line up my laser, then I hoook the fairing back on.

I'm going to be cutting the hole using a 2" hole saw and I have some grommets that were donated to me by BlueHaya for a professional finish. I'm so excited.... but wait......that laser dot is less than 1" from the fairing bolt? Somethings screwed up. So I undo everything, check it, double check and put everything back together, still too close. What's up with this? So I use my hole saw to cut a sample hole, center it over the laser and OH MY GOSH the hole cuts into the center of the fairing bolt hole. How can this be? How can anyone install sliders on this thing with this obvious fault?

So after some massive research, I find that on the K8 and above, you have to cut a hole to fit the slider exactly, 1-3/4" and even then it will cut into the fairing bolt pattern slightly. So this gets me thinking......in the event of a slide...the flexing and bowing of all the components are going to cause that slider to move around, a lot. A perfectly sized hole is going to just cause damage when the untimely fall occurs, rendering the device useless.

So I can cut a 1.75" hole and have a cosmetic slider, or I can go without. Well, I went without. They are now in the classifieds.

Just a quick question, does the Gen 1 have this problem, or is it a GenII issue only? Why would Suzuki make suck an obvious design flaw when it's commonly known that sliders are a popoular aftermarket add-on?

 

[MikeSomething]

On my Gen 1, the sliders holes that I cut are pretty far enough away from the fairing bolt. No probs. You should check into the "T-Rex" and other no-cut frame sliders that use brackets or whatever.

 

[Vonderbach]

On my Gen 1, the sliders holes that I cut are pretty far enough away from the fairing bolt. No probs. You should check into the "T-Rex" and other no-cut frame sliders that use brackets or whatever.

I've heard equally bad things about them such as radiator damage, etc. Not to mention they just stick out like a sore thumb. I think I'll take my chances until something better comes along.

Thanks for confirming the GenI fit, at least someone can get some use out of them if they buy them.

 

[Tufbusa]

The frame on the Gen II did not change so there should be no difference in the distance from the upper engine mount and the fairing bolt.

 

[Vonderbach]

The frame on the Gen II did not change so there should be no difference in the distance from the upper engine mount and the fairing bolt.

Something changed, because there's just no getting around the distance issue. I checked and rechecked the distance between the motor mount and the fairing bolt and it's only about 1" removed from one another, and that's at the edge of the bolt, not the hole for the bolt.

I'll take a pic tomorrow just in case I have a screw loose.....get it? Screw loose!? I kill me.

 

[mestona]

The fairing mounting location on the Gen 2 changed along with a reduction in fasteners through the use of interlocking plastics. And yeah I had sliders on my gen 1, I won't even bother on the gen 2.

 

[Vonderbach]

Well, I guess that says it all. Thanks for the confirmation mestona.

 

[jdsbusa]

2" is a HUGE hole...check another slider brand would be my recommendation. My LSL's only needed about a 1" hole. They use an aluminum tapered stem that sits between the actual slider and the frame. Mine is a Gen 1 but I would think a hole of only an inch would work much better than nearly 2.

 

[mike1180]

I cut a small hole in the fairing, re-installed it and trimmed out the final part with a dremel and sanding tube.
No laser. levels etc.
If you guess approx, them you can install the slider and bolt, mark around it and then trim out the shape.
10 minute job.

 

[Vonderbach]

I've seen the LSL's I'm just not sure I like the look. But hey, considering I don't have too many choices, it's something to consider right?

I'll look into those. Thanks!

Edit: Mike, you have a GenI though, right?

 

[TruWrecks]

With T-Rex no-cut sliders I highly doubt there will be any failure issues if the worst happens. The brackets included in the kit far exceed the durability of the frame it's connected to. The steel rod the transfers impact between sides has plenty of space to flex without touching anything important. I don't plan on testing this out intentionally, but if it happens I will take plenty of "after" pictures to share with everyone.

I just wish people wouldn't bad mouth a product that they have no experience with. I know, I know. It's just human nature to fear the unknown.

 

[Vonderbach]

I just wish people wouldn't bad mouth a product that they have no experience with. I know, I know. It's just human nature to fear the unknown.

I'm not really bad mouthing it, but I did "some" research. I found one person that said it bent their radiator. Maybe that's an isolated incident.

Aside from that, I'm just not really digging the appearance. It's purely a personal opinion on my part.

 

[TruWrecks]

That comment wasn't specific to you Vonderboch. I know people have reported problems with some brands of sliders, but they rarely have anything to back up facts for a specific brand. Another member here reported that he flipped his bike over the nose on to the side and the T-Rex sliders worked like a charm. That's no small impact.

Frame sliders aren't intended to protect the fairing or they would be called fairing savers. :mwink:

 

[cheferman65]

2" is a HUGE hole...check another slider brand would be my recommendation. My LSL's only needed about a 1" hole. They use an aluminum tapered stem that sits between the actual slider and the frame. Mine is a Gen 1 but I would think a hole of only an inch would work much better than nearly 2.

same here for the II, I measured twice, cut a small pilot hole and used a dremel to gradually enlarge the opening. Fargen perfect.

 

[Vonderbach]

Well heck, that looks real nice. Thanks for posting that pic, gives me some confidence to go back to this and not give up on the idea.

 

[kromdom]

Well heck, that looks real nice. Thanks for posting that pic, gives me some confidence to go back to this and not give up on the idea.

Like you, I was also "discouraged" by the distance/spacing of the hole to the fairing bolt. Which is why I went with the T-REX no-cut sliders. As far as looks/appearance, it is no different from the rest. Below is a pic of valkyriemc's: https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/130466-frame-sliders.html P.S. I also spray painted the stems black after seeing his

 

[BusaPops]

I used the T-Rex no cut sliders too. It is a slick install. I've used the sliders once when she toppled off the race stand. Did what it was supposed to do. The brackets they give you are hefty and you don't have to use the cross piece behind the radiator if you don't want or think it may damage your rad in the event of a spill. I doubt it. The only concern I have with T-Rex is they don't stock replacement spools so I had to make another set when it toppled over. They said 10 weeks delivery on the spools.

 

[Vonderbach]

The spray paint does wonders to make them less obvious. That's a consideration. But then I will have to modify my grill inserts. more work.