Getting oil temp to normal
- Thread starter Spkrdctr
- Start date
I think the oil gets hot pretty quick, like within a few minutes or so?
E Zurcher
Registered
Don't really know the answer to that one. I would guess as long as the water temp is running where it normally does once the bike is warmed up you should be good to go. Mine normally runs just below center on the gauge when it's cool out and smack dab in the middle when its hot out. I take it easy until then and then grip and rip. In reality, once the motor is running you are probably getting the most protection from the oil when it's cooler than hotter so it's more an issue of letting the metal parts of the engine get to where they need to be when warm.
Boosabuser
Registered
Not on the bike but i do have one in my truck
One thing I notice is that
1, the oil temp is always a little behind the water temp
2, when the water temp stablises the oil temp is always a couple of degrees (C) lower
3, the oil temp varies a lot more than the water does depending on driving style so if you are " Driving with enthusiasm" the oil temp increases and when you are cruising/stuck in traffic it tends to drop, it also takes longer to warm up in colder ambient temperatures
I am no expert but i am guessing that the water has a bigger cooling area and thermostat to keep it stable, the oil has a smaller cooler and no stat
Remember i am talking about a turbo diesel van not a busa but i should imaging that things would be similar
As long as the temperatures are stable and under control there should not be too much to worry about
I am sure there are more knowledgeble people on here that can confirm or correct this, every day is a school day after all
One thing I notice is that
1, the oil temp is always a little behind the water temp
2, when the water temp stablises the oil temp is always a couple of degrees (C) lower
3, the oil temp varies a lot more than the water does depending on driving style so if you are " Driving with enthusiasm" the oil temp increases and when you are cruising/stuck in traffic it tends to drop, it also takes longer to warm up in colder ambient temperatures
I am no expert but i am guessing that the water has a bigger cooling area and thermostat to keep it stable, the oil has a smaller cooler and no stat
Remember i am talking about a turbo diesel van not a busa but i should imaging that things would be similar
As long as the temperatures are stable and under control there should not be too much to worry about
I am sure there are more knowledgeble people on here that can confirm or correct this, every day is a school day after all
Oil takes a bit longer to reach operating temperature than does water. The reason it's important to warm your engine at idle before asking it to perform is to heat the moving metal parts as well as heat the oil. Water temp is relevant but not a requirement since the water is by design to keep the engine from over heating.
Metal expands and retracts depending on the amount of heat it absorbs. So it's very important to have the engine up to it's preferred opereating temperature before smacking the throttle. Loosely fitting parts create excessive ware. All the moving parts should be hot and properly fitted to avoid a chance of failure.
Oil is thick on a cold start making it difficult to properly lubricate. All engines are designed to perform best at certain temps and not all are the same. Keeping this in mind and allowing any engine to reach the desired temp before twisting the throttle will without doubt extend the life of the engine.
I never leave the pits on track days until the engine has hit 222 degrees and the fan has cooled it back to normal on it's first trip out in the mornings. For road use I may leave the drive a bit sooner but I keep it at low RPM for a couple miles or more to allow the engine to heat throughout before any agressive riding.
Metal expands and retracts depending on the amount of heat it absorbs. So it's very important to have the engine up to it's preferred opereating temperature before smacking the throttle. Loosely fitting parts create excessive ware. All the moving parts should be hot and properly fitted to avoid a chance of failure.
Oil is thick on a cold start making it difficult to properly lubricate. All engines are designed to perform best at certain temps and not all are the same. Keeping this in mind and allowing any engine to reach the desired temp before twisting the throttle will without doubt extend the life of the engine.
I never leave the pits on track days until the engine has hit 222 degrees and the fan has cooled it back to normal on it's first trip out in the mornings. For road use I may leave the drive a bit sooner but I keep it at low RPM for a couple miles or more to allow the engine to heat throughout before any agressive riding.
stretchabusa
Registered
I wouldn't worry about it, my BMW 2010 twin cam GSA, in the owners manual, tell's you to move off pretty much straight away without excessive warm up.
It's a Busa FFS don't abuse it from stone cold, change the oil and filter regularly and it will out last you
Best regards Stretch :bigsmile:
PS no attitude intended in any way, shape or form.
It's a Busa FFS don't abuse it from stone cold, change the oil and filter regularly and it will out last you
Best regards Stretch :bigsmile:
PS no attitude intended in any way, shape or form.
I wouldn't worry about it, my BMW 2010 twin cam GSA, in the owners manual, tell's you to move off pretty much straight away without excessive warm up.
It's a Busa FFS don't abuse it from stone cold, change the oil and filter regularly and it will out last you
Best regards Stretch :bigsmile:
PS no attitude intended in any way, shape or form.
Please, copy and paste the page where your BMW operators manual suggests you should immediately apply throttle to a cold engine and hit the freeway! A link to the opperators manual along with a page number would work as well.
Believe and confirm with No attitude intended.
stretchabusa
Registered
Please, copy and paste the page where your BMW operators manual suggests you should immediately apply throttle to a cold engine and hit the freeway! A link to the opperators manual along with a page number would work as well.
Believe and confirm with No attitude intended.
There is a line in the manual warning about excessive warm up prior to moving off.
As for the cut and paste bit, the manual is with the bike in George White Motorcycles, so that's gonna be a tough one.
Best regards Stretch.
flynlow
Registered
I dunno, in built V8s you wanna be off idle to warm the cylinders preventing fuel blow-by. With newly formulated oils and roller valve components you only need heat for the rings to expand. With that in mind, I only idle for a short time before proceeding at low RPM's until operating temps are reached.
Sorry OP for being so far off your post.
Sorry OP for being so far off your post.
Note the term "Excessive"!
I know it's not exactly the same, but my car has a 1.5L inline 4 engine. The owners manual does not require that you sit and wait for the car to warm up. It just says to go ahead and drive it gently until the "cool" light goes out. Even when the temp is well below freezing, that only takes a couple of minutes.
My general rule with the Busa is to start the engine and let it idle long enough for me to put on my jacket, gloves, and helmet. Then I take it easy for the first few miles after leaving the house. It stays in an attached garage, so the bike never gets too cold to begin with.
Sorry if that doesn't exactly answer your question though.
My general rule with the Busa is to start the engine and let it idle long enough for me to put on my jacket, gloves, and helmet. Then I take it easy for the first few miles after leaving the house. It stays in an attached garage, so the bike never gets too cold to begin with.
Sorry if that doesn't exactly answer your question though.
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