OB_13Reasons
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The metal cap covers a solid ugly pipe end!
Getting more noises from the stock exhaust
- Thread starter OB_13Reasons
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G
Guest
Several people have drilled out the baffle in the forward end. You need an 18" drill to do the job.
G
Guest
BTW Was that you that I met at the Ephrata Sportbike non-Breakfast? Your blue looks good.
I was looking over the BUSA one night and I noticed that the exhaust cans are held in by a couple of either welded or soldiered in allen head bolts. If one were to remove the little bolts and the end cap could one remove some of the packing inside to make for a louder exhaust without sacraficing performance of course?
G
Guest
Duh .... dun think theres packing in the stock cans .... only several passages and partitions.
Hey Lyle,
I'm the nice guy with the Burgundy one. I'll see you up in Ephrata, PA on August 6, 2000 if you'll be there. We took the back roads back to Bowie, MD after the last gathering and we had an absolute ball.
Whats the other guys name that was with you?
Keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down.
I'm the nice guy with the Burgundy one. I'll see you up in Ephrata, PA on August 6, 2000 if you'll be there. We took the back roads back to Bowie, MD after the last gathering and we had an absolute ball.
Whats the other guys name that was with you?
Keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down.
OB_byhalia
Registered
ALERT TO BOOKER!!!!!!!!
Whatever you do, don't touch those soldered shiny allen head bolts securing your exhaust tips. I did and ruined a former set of cans. Those bolts are a cheap 'taiwan' metal and cannot be reused, I found. Besides you cannot do any positive mods on that end of canister anyway. I tried some other bolts and they were incorrect metal grade and broke them off. 2 per can. Was I miserable, till I traded some work for some other stock cans last summer.
You may find the instructions posted in the archives. Nonetheless, it is pretty straight forward and simple. Just at least an 18 inch (if I am not mistaken) drill bit and drill as many holes in the baffle plate at you can for improved flow. Its on you as to how much to do, so you might do a little, install them and listen for the particular sound you desire. Best to have someone revving it for you while you distance yourself.
If you decide against doing the labor, I have some "already done" I would even trade for undrilled. I finally got a header.
byhalia@juno.com
[This message has been edited by byhalia (edited 12 July 2000).]
Whatever you do, don't touch those soldered shiny allen head bolts securing your exhaust tips. I did and ruined a former set of cans. Those bolts are a cheap 'taiwan' metal and cannot be reused, I found. Besides you cannot do any positive mods on that end of canister anyway. I tried some other bolts and they were incorrect metal grade and broke them off. 2 per can. Was I miserable, till I traded some work for some other stock cans last summer.
You may find the instructions posted in the archives. Nonetheless, it is pretty straight forward and simple. Just at least an 18 inch (if I am not mistaken) drill bit and drill as many holes in the baffle plate at you can for improved flow. Its on you as to how much to do, so you might do a little, install them and listen for the particular sound you desire. Best to have someone revving it for you while you distance yourself.
If you decide against doing the labor, I have some "already done" I would even trade for undrilled. I finally got a header.
byhalia@juno.com
[This message has been edited by byhalia (edited 12 July 2000).]
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