Getting Low

[Supergsxr]

Guys/gals,

I want to lower my busa and I have some questions......Been doing some research and wnat to lower my busa myself.  I found lowering links for the rear at some really good prices on ebay and theres one kit that allows you to lower the rear and the FRONT.   The front kit contains (4) 1 1/4 spacers to go between the upper and lower tree and allows you to lower or raise the forks up to 1 1/4 inches.  Would it be better to go with this kit or just to get the lowering tripple tree?

?  Any help, guidance, and/or other instructions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance for all your help!!!!

Henry

 

[qwknuf6]

I have 1 1/4" reaper risers on the front of my bike , work well , no mods , much cheaper than triple tree .
I lowered the back of the bike with dogbones , also 1 1/4" , jinkster susp. settings the bike handles great . looks great ,

Mark

 

[Supergsxr]

Thanks for the fast response and for the good info. Anyone else?

 

[thebbbusa]

I went the $$$ route, and got a PM Triple and Soupy's adjustable dogbones. I love it, and it's infinitely adjustable. Personally, I don't like the way the risers look under the top plate. Threaded dogbones allow quick changing of height for different conditions in the rear.

Good luck!

 

[CAT3]

I didn't like the gap b/w cover and top clamp either, so went with SpencerCycles lowering clamp cover. I have a set of 3hole dogbones, but haven't installed them yet. I like the cornering of the bike, and worry about lowering the rear killing the curvability.

 

[heavybusa]

It depends on how you want the bike to look both will accomplish the same outcome.

I prefer a nice shiny top clamp

 

[GMbusa]

I've had both and ended up using just the lowering upper clamp with my fork tubes flush with the top.

 

[Guclu]

lowering the bike , will make the bike looks far better than the stock , also , quite easy to control than the stock in the city if you do not lower the bike too much , here is my photo story of the lowering process ,


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(all parts from Schnitz)

 

[BigDiesel]

+1 on the triple clamp route-its easy to adjust, makes the fork area look TONS better-if you go witha polished/chrome jobbie. also-not that much more $$ considering how much more material you're getting-risers are just a few pieces of metal, triples are usually cut from a piece of solid billet n miled down to spec.

In hindsight, I wish i would have gone with the threaded rear dogbones-much easier to adjust, and not much more $ than adjustable 'bones with pre-drilled holes.

good luck either way, n show us pics when you;re done!

 

[dadofthree]

Nobody suggesting strapping the front ?

 

[nxvette01]

(dadofthree @ Dec. 28 2006,03:46) Nobody suggesting strapping the front ?

It is not safe to ride on the street with the front strapped. It should be for drag racing only.

 

[SANDFLEA85]

(dadofthree @ Dec. 28 2006,13:46) Nobody suggesting strapping the front ?

mine has 3hole dog bones on the rear,and adjustable tree upfront,also has straps to get her really low,but is a bitch to turn front wheel when strapped tight,not that it turns that much anyway

 

[Supergsxr]

Guys,

Thanks for the wealth of information......After seeing Guclu's and Devldog's busa's looking sweet w/polished tripple tree clamps, I'll be going that route definitely. I'm all about bling on my busa, seeing as how I just finished polishing the frame and swing arm by hand. Thanks to all for posting. I do have another question, once the tripple tree is installed, can someone explain to me the process of lowering the front of the bike??? I'm a good mechanic but just need some pointers. Thanks again in advance!!!!!!

 

[thebbbusa]

(Supergsxr @ Dec. 29 2006,07:15) Guys,

Thanks for the wealth of information......After seeing Guclu's and Devldog's busa's looking sweet w/polished tripple tree clamps, I'll be going that route definitely.  I'm all about bling on my busa, seeing as how I just finished polishing the frame and swing arm by hand.  Thanks to all for posting.  I do have another question, once the tripple tree is installed, can someone explain to me the process of lowering the front of the bike???  I'm a good mechanic but just need some pointers.  Thanks again in advance!!!!!!

Lowering the front is a piece of cake. Believe me, it will all make sense when you put that clamp on. You'll see how it all goes together.

Your forks are clamped by two clamps, an upper and lower. Just loosen the bolts and slide the tubes up an equal amount. Hardest part is supporting the bike while you do it. I had a stem stand in the front which was tricky to get out once the bike was lowered.

 

[johnnycrash]

I'm running a front strap but I only cinch it down right before a drag race. Like Devildog said, it won't turn too well when strapped. But ... it made a HUGE difference in how the bike launched, if you're interested in that. I ride around 90% of the time with the strap fully loose, and then crank it down only when launching hard.

The process of lowering the front is nothing more than loosening the triple clamps and sliding the fork tubes up further through the clamp. The stock top plate won't allow this, necessitating the aftermarket top clamp.

 

[Supergsxr]

Thanks to all who replied.....I've found several top clamps already ranging form 129.00 to 189.00. I hope to have all the necessary parts within the next 3 months (on a budget) I'll learn to post pics and will post up when done. Thanks again to all, the info is invaluable!!!!!!!!!

Henry

 

[kawiboy11]

I got the lowering tree and dog bones in the back
The risers are nice, but they don't do anything for the look of the bike.
cody

 

[GPW]

Be sure the front and rear are lowered identically to ensure your cornering is not totally lost and to not upset the rake of the front end. So if you lower one section lower the other the same depth. Once the rear is lowered past 2" you lose some of the effects of the suspension in the rear due to reduced and compressed travel of the rear shock. I would switch to the drag shock in the rear to get the rear back in check. Just my 2 cents. The front should be ok, you may just have to stiffen up the front to avoid bottoming out.

 

[TurboSN95]

(GPW @ Jan. 02 2007,06:23) Be sure the front and rear are lowered identically to ensure your cornering is not totally lost and to not upset the rake of the front end. So if you lower one section lower the other the same depth. Once the rear is lowered past 2" you lose some of the effects of the suspension in the rear due to reduced and compressed travel of the rear shock. I would switch to the drag shock in the rear to get the rear back in check. Just my 2 cents. The front should be ok, you may just have to stiffen up the front to avoid bottoming out.

What about raising the rear? If you raise the rear do you need to raise the front or leave it at the stock height?