Getting harder to start hot




Bubbaeskew

Registered
Ok guys, I have 05’ Busa, exhaust, pciii usb, air box mod. Here’s my problem. When she’s cold she usually fires right up, but when she’s hot she takes longer and longer to start. Spins over fine, sputter a few times, just doesn’t start. Cycle the ignition and try again and she may start. Can be riding and cut off for a second, she acts up immediately.

U can unplug the power commander and run factory eco, nothing changes. However, if I put a new tune in the power commander when she’s acting up, she will startup immediately. Checked all connectors. At bike week and I’m at my wits end with thins this being retarded
 

greg3852

Registered
Common occurance. I think it is due to the starter getting hot and swelling preventing the bike from being started. I went 24volt starting system and never had to worry about it again, or the even easier solution, get hold of Frank at Powerhouse and get a new full spectrum lithium battery with 720cca and problem solved.
 

Bubbaeskew

Registered
Turns over fine. Spins just like she does when cold, it’s almost like she’s starving for fuel, but once she starts she runs fine.
 

POWERHOUSE

Frank
Site Sponsor
Registered
Turns over fine. Spins just like she does when cold, it’s almost like she’s starving for fuel, but once she starts she runs fine.
Battery. I said it again. I know you don't believe it, based on the fact that the engine is cranking over at normal speed, but I am going to say it again: battery. Even if you get a brand new stock battery (YT12A-BS) and install that, your problem will go away . . . for a while, maybe even a few months. Putting a better battery than stock in that bike will make that problem go away forever. We have seen this problem many times.
 

Bubbaeskew

Registered
A
Battery. I said it again. I know you don't believe it, based on the fact that the engine is cranking over at normal speed, but I am going to say it again: battery. Even if you get a brand new stock battery (YT12A-BS) and install that, your problem will go away . . . for a while, maybe even a few months. Putting a better battery than stock in that bike will make that problem go away forever. We have seen this problem many times.



Any recommendations on battery? Why would it fire right up when sending tune to PC again? When resending tune, it will start great for 5-10 minutes, then goes back to being retarded again.
 

Bubbaeskew

Registered
Battery. I said it again. I know you don't believe it, based on the fact that the engine is cranking over at normal speed, but I am going to say it again: battery. Even if you get a brand new stock battery (YT12A-BS) and install that, your problem will go away . . . for a while, maybe even a few months. Putting a better battery than stock in that bike will make that problem go away forever. We have seen this problem many times.
Ok, swapped out my 180cca for a brand new 230cca, no difference once she’s hot. She has started surging at idle now though.
 
Got a voltmeter? At the problem hot idle what is the voltage across the battery? Keep monitoring it, does it change?

When hot and then turned off, and she does not start, what is the battery voltage? Does waiting five to ten minutes allow it to start? What is the voltage then?

If the voltage plummets as it runs, that could be a bad ground.
 

Bubbaeskew

Registered
Got a voltmeter? At the problem hot idle what is the voltage across the battery? Keep monitoring it, does it change?

When hot and then turned off, and she does not start, what is the battery voltage? Does waiting five to ten minutes allow it to start? What is the voltage then?

If the voltage plummets as it runs, that could be a bad ground.

Voltage stays around11.3-11.5
Only time it gets better is when it cools completely off, sometimes that doesn’t even help. But once she’s running she runs great, surging at idle has now stopped. Just sucks being out at bike week and it not wanting to start.
 

Kiwi Rider

Registered
Voltage stays around11.3-11.5
Only time it gets better is when it cools completely off, sometimes that doesn’t even help. But once she’s running she runs great, surging at idle has now stopped. Just sucks being out at bike week and it not wanting to start.
The voltage at idle should be at least 12.7v absolute minimum . .
ideally it will be more than 13v,
11.3-11.5v shows there is a problem in your charging system.
You need to test the stator output voltage and the voltage reg/rectifier needs to be checked as well as all connections, including all ground connections.
 

Bubbaeskew

Registered
I
The bike should show above battery voltage when running, if not it's not charging. Assuming a good battery
a reading of 11 volts indicates a problem . . . components, connections, shorts . . . agree with Kiwi . . .

It does show good when running, 11.3-11.5 while cranking.
 

Bubbaeskew

Registered
The voltage at idle should be at least 12.7v absolute minimum . .
ideally it will be more than 13v,
11.3-11.5v shows there is a problem in your charging system.
You need to test the stator output voltage and the voltage reg/rectifier needs to be checked as well as all connections, including all ground connections.
It’s 13.8 idling at 1100rpm, 14.6 pretty much anything above 1500rpm.
 
11.3 V sounds low for starting. This from a brand new fully charged battery that is a higher capacity than the old battery? The injectors might need a full 12 volts, and there could be the fuel starvation that you suspect. I assume with a jump pack the voltage did not go that low? Some very smart people here are flagging this as the problem but your answers are a bit inconsistent.
 



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