Getting GL ready for paint....





CAT3

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#1
Well, since I got this badazz set of Green Lantern graphics from KennyMac sitting here in the house buggin me to death...I decided to start the process of clean-up, pre-paint prep if you will. Since I laid GL down a few weeks ago and scratched up the factory decals on the left side it made removal a PITA...and I swear the right side was repainted, there was a few bubbles here n there, and the clearcoat and basecoat peeled off in places with the graphics.

Speaking of which, GL is a silver and black factory Busa, but the black part of the plastics contains a microfine blue metallic! WTF? I never noticed this on any other "black" Busa's before, so I am thinking the bike was shot by previous owner. Can anyone confirm or deny the use of blue metallic in the black portions?

I read the sticky on how to paint, and I have done very little painting before, mostly using lacquer (way easy). So, figure GL and I will get to know eachother over the next few weeks or so and hope this turns out well. I am just going to shoot it in high gloss black and clear. After, the KennyMac designed Green Lantern highlit light reflective decal kit will go on.. I will be doing a lot of the accenting in a metallic "lime" and gold powdercoat, as a way to advertise my prospective business (waiting on business application to be finalized).
Black: Plastics, pegs, seats, grips

Lime: Rearsets (rider and pass.), gas-cap ring, clutch and stator covers, rear brake brace arm

Gold: (levers, forks and calipers already anodized) foot controls (brake and clutch linkage arms), spacer for the exhaust can, resovoir caps, rotor centers

I see the finalized product in my mind and she's sexy...wife see's the Busa as it is now, scuffed paint, 75%black (w/ blue flake) and 25% Silver etc and thinks I just screwed the pooch
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She'll see.

Ok, rant off.....

ps. for black, is there a one step application, or no?
 

guido4512

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#2
That is factory black and its a tri -stage paint meaning there is a base coat, a mid coat and the top coat which is clear.
Be sure to clean everything first with wax remover before sanding anything. And never touch anything with yer fingers - use gloves.
Are you painting the tank, too?
Youv'e got alot of work to do.
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CAT3

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#4
guido4512....well I already jacked that one up, I wasn't wearing gloves and didnt strip the wax. I never had to do that before, but it did require more wiping down before prime and paint. Yes I will be doing the tank as well. Any tips on removal? Like lines should stay on tank, or stay on bike? Etc.... I wil probably glass bead the tank if its sealed and wont get any media in it.

Heavy will get some up soon..
 

guido4512

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#5
wow.gif

No need to go any further then..........









No just kidding.

Get ya some cleaner at the paint supply store and wipe everything off real good before doing any thing else. What happens is the grit of the paper forces the wax/ oil down in the "pores" of the old paint, then when u go to paint you'll get FISHEYES.
No need to remove all the paint - your just creating more work for yerself in the long run. Use 400 grit to scuff the paint up everywhere its glossy. For the decals under the clear coat you may need to sand a little more. Then prime over everything. USe a "guide coat" after that and sand again - it will show you any low spots or scratches that need to be filled. Then repeat until no low spots are found..............
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CAT3

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#6
guido.. Yeah I used to have to do the clean-up during prep, that is using the wax&degreaser prior to priming...that job sucked. I wish I would have stayed with that body shop longer, at least long enough to learn all the ins n outs...but as it seems, there are much better places to learn, why else clean post scuff, other than the final wipe down right?
Well, the adhesive under the factory decals didnt want to come off in the traditional heat gun and peel, the entire adhesive stuck to the bike. So in a pissy-fit I tried Goo Be Gone, 3M Adhesive Remover and even acetone...no luck. So I tired a mix of the GBG and a green scrubbie...worked great, removed the adhesive and the top coats (heck I think it took the primer off too
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). I know I have a lot of prep work to do, especially after scrubbing the glue into the plastic...ugh.
I was planning on glass beading the entire tank, might as well take it to bare metal since I am painting it, no sense in continuing the build-up, at least I cant think of any.
Keep the suggestions coming please
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and thank you.

Charlie

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CAT3

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#7
Guido... Do I want to paint the edges, like grill openings and outside lines first like I would with a car? It would make sense if so, as thats how I was learned ;)


Also, is a quart enough to cover the plastics or no? I know a gallon is way too much...thinking a quart would be good.
 

guido4512

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#8
A quart is plenty for the whole bike.
Yeah, spray edges / openings first just like a car.

I personally wouldn't remove the factory paint or primer unless there was rust present or body work to be done.
But I think your already there so you may want to get some sealer for the tank.
For the plastic, if its raw (bare), you'll need some flex additive. If the paint/ primer is still there - no additive needed.
I'm getting ready to shoot primer on the wifes gixxer fairing this evening.
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BusaCruise

speachless
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#9
to answer one of your questions....yupper...I am more than 95% sure there is a pearl added (or 'meatallic') additive in the primary colors....in the last few years at least.

The blues have it ...the maroons....blacks...
 

Mr. Anderson

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#10
FYI, the 06's the black part of the black/sonoma red and the black/grey. the listing of the color in the paint catalogs for the black portion is pearl black. I'm sure this goes for the 05's as well.
 

CAT3

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#11
Ok, so my eye sight has gone south on me...it is confirmed the Busa was not true black as I thought, but its Black with blue met. Great. Thats going to change
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Guido, haven't touched the tank yet...probably another week or so from getting that far. I've only scrubbed the plastics down to bare stuff here-n-there, where there were some deep scrathes.....maybe a few square inches total. However, I am convinced the right fairing had been repainted before and I do not believe any flex additive was used...the paint chips off too easy, clear and base coat, sometimes primer. So, I think I will scrub it down, smooth out the scratches, clean, clean, clean, clean and then prep for primer with flex and drive on. Any particular preference on plastic filler for repairing the deep scratches? Thanks again for all the help on this project.

Charlie
 

guido4512

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#12
(CAT3 @ Oct. 10 2006,20:04) ............  Any particular preference on plastic filler for repairing the deep scratches?  Thanks again for all the help on this project.

Charlie
I use a product called Blaze Glaze. It was recommended by my paint supplier. It comes in a big tube and it smells like bondo...................
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CAT3

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#13
Will look for it... Luckily the scratches are not deep at all, so one light coat should cover it up well, without having trapped air/bubble issues later.
 

guido4512

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#14
Here's a pic of the Blaze glaze I was talking about.
It comes with a small tube of blue catalyst also..............

Good luck and lets see those pics of progress!

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Picture_003.jpg
 

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