GenII Exhaust Removal and Aftermarket Full System Install





Mythos

Registered
#1
Full Exhaust Installation
Here are a couple of other resources i referred to while switching to the aftermarket exhaust. Different systems I have see are similar in the way they install.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/166401-installing-full-brocks-exhaust.html

PERFORMANCE GEN II HAYABUSA SHORT MEGAPHONE EXHAUST & POWER COMMANDER V INSTALLATION - YouTube[/url]

Tools:
12mm socket.
12 mm wrench
6mm hex tool socket
Silicone spray
8 brand new header bolts (m8 x 1.25 x 25)
Sharpie felt tip
flashlight
Masking Tape
Permatex Copper Spray-a-Gasket
new exhaust gaskets
high temperature Neverseize
mineral spirits
m8 x 1.25 tap
long 5mm allen wrench
non permanenet locking agent
spring hook or needle nose pliers
denatured alchohol
Torque wrench


Remove the side fairings

Many feel it is an unnecessary step but I found it much simpler to remove the radiator and oil cooler. That also eliminates any chance that those parts will get damaged during exhaust removal and installation.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/169255-genii-how-remove-radiator-oil-cooler.html

Muffler removal
1. Loosen the muffler connecting bolt on each side of the stock exhaust using a 12mm socket.
mufconbolt.jpg


2. Use a 12mm socket and 12 mm wrench to loosen the mounting bolts and nut on each side.
mufassmntbolt.jpg


3. Support the muffler assembly with one hand while removing the mounting bolt and nut from the hanger bracket. Gently wiggle the muffler while pulling to the rear of the bike to disassemble the muffler from the midpipe.
mtboltnutremv.jpg


Header/Exhaust Removal
4. Disconnect the HO2 sensor wire on the right side of the exhaust.
HO2snsrdiscon.jpg


5. Support the exhaust pipe so that it will not fall when it is unfastened from the engine.
suprtheader.jpg


6. Use a 6mm hex tool socket to remove the header bolts. It may be necessary to use a T handle or allen wrench to get on the bottom bolt of header #3.
rmvhdrblts.jpg


It is common to find header bolts bent. They will need to be replaced.
benthdrbolt.jpg


7. Remove the exhaust mounting bolt using a 12mm socket. Carefully free the exhaust pipe from the engine.
rmvxhstmntbt.jpg


xstmntbltwshr.jpg

The exhaust mounting bolt is held in with a lock washer against a flat washer which goes against a bushing in the exhaust. The bolt also has had blue factory locktight applied.

8. Remove the exhaust bracket using a 12mm socket.
rmvexhstbrack.jpg


9. Remove the bushing from the rear of the exhaust pipes by pulling the metal sleeve out and pushing the rubber damper out. Use Silicone spray the make removing the damper easier.
exhstbshgordr.jpg

The picture above shows the proper order of the bolt and the bushing.

10. Remove the exhaust gaskets.
rmvxhstgskts.jpg

I used my finger nail to pry the gasket away from the engine. Do not pry the gaskets free with a screwdriver or other hard tool that might scratch the machined surface.


Test Install
The pipes may be installed long term at this point but if you wish to be sure they will fit properly and assemble quickly, it may best to loosely install the system before applying gasket spray or header crush gaskets. The Tsukigi pipes I installed to my GenII busa fit perfectly everywhere.

11. To familiarize yourself with the parts, assemble the pipes before installing the exhaust to the bike.
busCANfulsys3.jpg


headpipes.jpg


Tsukigioilcoolbrack.jpg

There is an oil cooler bracket and nut included with the kit which seems to be exactly the same length as the OEM oil cooler bracket. I retained the OEM oil cooler bracket in my setup.

Tsukigiclrncplt.jpg

There are two small aluminum plates in the kit. Perhaps they are shim stock for increasing radiator clearance. They were not of use to me either.

Tskgimuffbolt.jpg

The long bolt with washer and nut included in the packet of exhaust pipe retainer springs is not meant to be used with the CANNON muffler. I used the OEM bolt to hang the CANNON muffler from the hanger bracket.

There will also be a small tube of silicone sealant for exhaust gaskets included with the springs. The sealant is not necessary if the exhaust gaskets are replaced as recommended.


Tsukheatshield.jpg

The Tsukigi kit includes precut heat shields to protect the lowerfairings from the exhaust heat that radiates off of the pipes.


12. Install the exhaust mount bushing to the Tsukigi exhaust pipe.
instexhstbshg.jpg


13. Support the header / collector under the motorcycle and loosely assemble the new exhaust to the motorcycle using brand new header bolts to fasten the header collars to the holes in engine block (The bolt is an m8 x 1.25 x 25 flat head cap screw available at Ace Hardware for $1.80 each). Loosely fasten the header/collector assembly to the engine block by loosely threading in the header bolts. Use the OEM exhaust mounting bolt to fasten the exhaust under the engine. Place the muffler onto the the exhaust.
looseboltup.jpg


It is only necessary to thread in the top four exhaust bolts for the trial fitment. See the precaution about the lower bolt hole of head pipe #3 in step 6 above.

14. Use a Sharpie felt tip to draw a line on each seam. Also, draw a horizontal line indicate where the pipe segments should align.
markjoints.jpg


15. Use a flashlight to verify that the exhaust is not touching the engine anywhere.
nocontact.jpg


16. Check that the clearance between the exhaust and the oil pan is 1 mm or greater at each of the locations indicated in the following photos. For reference purposes, I have labelled the pictures below with the same numbers as the illustrations in the Tsukigi installation instructions.
hdr3clctroilpn2.jpg

FIG 1. Between header #3 and the right side of the oil pan/drain plug.

hdr2clctroilpn2.jpg

FIG 2. Between header # 2 and the left side of the oil pan/drain plug.

clctr12oilpn2.jpg

FIG 3. Between # 3,4 pipe and right side of the oil pan.

hdr1clctroilpn2.jpg

FIG 4. Between # 1,2 pipe and the left side of the oil pan.

Lrearcrnroilpan.jpg

FIG 4-2. Between the left rear corner of the oil pan and 1, 2 pipe.

Lfrntcrnroilpan.jpg

FIG 5. Between the left front corner and the #1,2 pipe.

clctr1oilpan2.jpg

FIG 6. Between front, right corner of the oil pan and the 3,4 pipe.

17. Loosely reinstall the radiator and oil cooler (see https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/169255-genii-how-remove-radiator-oil-cooler.html). Check that the clearance will be at least 3 mm between the oil; cooler and the head pipes.
oilcoolclearnce2.jpg

As shown, I had over well 3mm of clearance between the oil cooler and the headpipes so I would consider this step optional.

18. Remove (or unbolt to clear) the oil cooler and radiator. Remove the muffler. Support the header/collector assembly and remove the header bolts and exhaust mount bolt. Remove the header/collector assembly and completely disassemble it.

Final Installation
19. Tape the pipes according to the marks made with Sharpie in step 14 above. Spray the male surface of each joint with Permatex Copper Spray-a-Gasket.
tapesealjoints.jpg


Spray both sides of the new exhaust gaskets.
gasketsealer.jpg


Spray the threads of each header bolt or apply high temperature Neverseize.
sealboltthreds.jpg


Stick the gaskets into the exhaust ports on the engine while the Spray-a-Gasket is still tacky
installhdrgskts.jpg


20. Before the Spray-a-Gasket dries beyond tacky, reassemble the header/collector
portion of the exhaust using the pen marks that were made in step 14, above. If the Spray-a-Gasket film has become dry to the touch, it may be necessary to apply a bit of mineral spirits to soften the gasket flim and make it slippery enough for the pipes to slide together.

21. Install the header/collector portion of the exhaust as described in Step 13 of this tutorial. Thread all eight header bolts into the engine block finger tight. Be especially careful starting the bolt into the bottom hole of headpipe #2. This pipe which drops almost straight down makes it difficult to thread the bolt into the engine block straight. Damage to threads can happen. If the bolt goes in crooked or just stops, The threads in the block are damaged. This situation can probabaly corrected by running an m8 x 1.25 tap through the threads in the engine block.
hdr2btmblt.jpg

It will be necessary to use a long 5mm allen wrench to get on the bolt. I used a closed end wrench as an improvised lever to turn the allen wrench.

22. Apply non permanenet locking agent to the threads of the exhaust mounting bolt and install the bolt finger tight.
thredlkzostmt.jpg


23. Install the muffler to the back of the the collector. It will be helpful to apply a slight film of mineral spirits to allow the joints to slide together easier if the Spray-a-Gasket gets too tacky.


24. Use a spring hook to install the four small springs to the header eye flanges. You can use a needle nose pliers to pull the springs but a spring hook is safest.
lilspringsheadr.jpg


25. Use the same type of procedure as was used in step 24 to attach the two large springs to the eye flanges on the collector.
bigspringsclctr.jpg


Attach the third large spring between the collector and the muffler.
bigspringmuflr.jpg
 

Mythos

Registered
#2
26. Remove the backing and apply the fairing heat shields included with the Tsukigi kit. I put mine right over the OEM heat shields
htshldinstltn.jpg


Reinstall the oil cooler and the radiator. https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/169255-genii-how-remove-radiator-oil-cooler.html

Reinstall the body panels to check that no fairings touch the exhaust. My right fairing was touching the exhaust until I installed the belly pan. After the belly pan was properly installed, there were no clearance issues at all.

27. Fully tighten all exhaust system bolts. The Sharpie will be easily removed from the pipes with denatured alchohol.

Torque wrench specs for bolts on the exhaust pipes are as follows:

Header bolts: 16.5: ft lbs.
Exhaust mounting bolt: 16.5 ft lbs
Exhaust hanger bolt: 18 ft lbs



Weight Loss
busOEMhdrwgt.jpg

OEM header 15 lbs, 5.3 oz



busOEMuflwgt.jpg

OEM Right muffler/midpipe 15 lbs., 13.7 oz

OEMrmufrwgt.jpg

OEM left muffler and midpipe 15 lbs 10.7 oz

exhstbrackwtJPG.jpg

OEM exhaust bracket and bolts 4.9 oz

busCANflswgt-1.jpg

Tsukigi full system with CANNON canister 13 lbs, 1.5 oz

CNhtshldwght.jpg

Tsukigi heat shields 2.45 oz

Total weight of OEM parts permanently removed: 47 lbs, 2.6 oz

Total weight of the Tsukigi Cannon full system exhaust: 13 lbs, 3.95 oz

Net weight loss: 33 lbs, 14.65 oz
 

kromdom

wannabe HOON
Donating Member
Registered
#3
excellent write-up :thumbsup: This weight-loss mod is a WINNER as it is also a power-adder and eye candy.
 

Mythos

Registered
#4
Thank you, Sir..lol ...just doing the final couple edits as you commented.

Yeah, some other systems are lighter than the CANNON (but I got this one for a steal at $600!!). Brocks claims 8 lbs for some of his systems, I believe. That is amazing!! But this CANNON is a beauty to look at and the power increase is really the #1 reason. I do a power wheelie at about 5k rpm and not even WOT!!!! BIG gain and the extreme low end does NOT feel weak at all.

+ if you like loud, the CANNON will do it for you. I love the sound. Must say, it is surprisingly quiet when the engine is cold. Just what I need for fall mornings to keep the neighbors happy. When the motor is warm this sucker is a screamer. Cages will hear you!! Earplugs strongly suggested.

Now, here is some eye candy>>>

CANinstall1.jpg


CANinstall11.jpg


CANinstall12.jpg


CANinstall6.jpg


sweetass.jpg
 

Mythos

Registered
#6
P.S. Ever considered riding around with your bike in this naked/streetfighter look :)
LOL It does look cool but you gotta remeber, I need a radiator so it would not look quite so cool. I did take it for a spin around the driveway and up the sidewalk defaired. It is a noticeable weightloss but I love the look offairings on a bike. If I went to a street fighter bike I would prolly go with something a lot older and less dear to my heart than the busa.

Loading up a quick vid I took this afternoon. Nothing spectacular but it shows how easy it is to wheelie now.
 
#11
STEP 21----if you run into damaged threads, use a thread restoring tap, not an ordinary thread cutting tap. I have a thread on here somewhere about damaged threads if you search. It was not hard to fix the threads that resulted from the bent header bolt.
 

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