Gen2 Hayabusa, Sprocket Cover Removal

Mythos

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I will probably turn this thread into a tutorial when I get this and related jobs wrapped up. I have removed the sprocket cover and I took lots of pictures. My concern now is installing the sprocket cover without damaging it. I've read several times on the org that the clutch slave cylinder can cause cracking of the sprocket cover and this might happen from hasty installation of the sprocket cover.

Is the correct process simply to thread the bolts in evenly so the cover remains flush to the engine case? Even tightening of the bolts compresses the slave cylinder and avoids cracking of the sprocket cover?

For installation purposes, should I try compressing the slave cylinder by sticking something through the pushrod hole in the clutch slave cylinder retainer plate (steel plate on the inside sprocket cover, prevents cylinder from coming out white sprocket cover is removed). I always compress my brake caliper cylinders in this way before installation and it helps a great deal.

Thanks. I'll be watching.
 
man - no fear - the sprocket covers got stronger with the first gen2

cracking covers we only had with the gen1s + stronger clutch spring whatfor we install allways the bridge over the sleeve to avoid cracking

all gen2 (and i guess 3 too) covers won´t crack

push the cover to its position, hit it with fist hit a bit onto its pins (mean 3 pieces) and tighten the screws with the in the manual asked newtonmeters = 10 Nm with a torque

all that i guess is 99.99% save because the engine / trans house is as far as i understood the same at all 2008-2022 engines

so don't be afraid to mount the cover as usual - no cover broke from normal screwing on - neither with gen1 nor with gen2 (gen3).
 
cracking covers we only had with the gen1s + stronger clutch spring whatfor we install allways the bridge over the sleeve to avoid cracking

all gen2 (and i guess 3 too) covers won´t crack

I have a clutch slave cylinder support made by Exoticycle. I don't know if I'll install it unless I go with heavier clutch springs someday.

I'm almost certain there are only 2 dowel pins on the Gen2 sprocket cover. It does not say anything about the pins in the service manual but my own pictures show 2 dowel pins. So press it on the pins by hand and screw it down. Common sense tells me to thread the 4 bolts as evenly as possible just to seat the dowel pins smoothly.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge again, Berlin. I'm glad you happened along, I wasn't able to find some of the discussions I had read about this topic in the past. I've been away from bikes for over a year and I'm now getting reacquainted.

For related information, I found the thread I had previously been using for questions about sprocket cover removal.

 
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I got it. No problems except I was having a heck of a time getting the two dowel pins to line up simultaneously. The two dowel pins insert into holes at the end of legs on the sprocket cover. The lower leg fits to a well shaped like the circumference of the leg. Of course, there is a hole for the dowel pin at the bottom of this well. What I discovered is that the well the lower leg fits in is not a piece of the frame. The well is black like the frame but it’s in a block of hard rubber. The rubber can flex around a bit. The lower leg of the sprocket cover must first fit in the well before its dowel pin can engage. I could see the flat underside of the lower leg was pressing against the edge of the well. For this reason, the dowel pin couldn’t mate to the dowel pin hole no matter how hard I pressed the leg inward. The trick was to A) engage the clutch pushrod to the hole in the clutch slave retainer plate by feel and B) watch closely to fit the lower leg to the well in the chunk of rubber. Then peer into the bolthole of the lower leg with a flashlight to make sure the dowel pin centers on the bolthole. The top leg with dowel pin should just about line up perfectly at that point, check it with a flashlight like you did the bottom leg. When both dowel pins and the pushrod are lined up, press the cover in and give it a few light thumps with the heel of your hand over the position of each dowel pin. From there, it’s just a process of threading the screws in evenly. I threaded each screw a half turn at a time and the cover pressed onto the dowel pins. The dowel pin screws both have about a half inch of threads engaged before they start compressing the dowel pins and the screws thread in without applying much force. There should be no reason to worry about damaging the threads. I threaded the two bolts that do not have dowel pins equally with the two bolts that do have dowel pins. The two non-dowel pin bolts threading in didn’t seem to have anything to do with compressing the dowel pins. They threaded very easily. They actually no tension on them at all each time I returned to them during the even tightening rotation but they must have been compressing the clutch slave cylinder in the sprocket cover agaist the pushrod. For this reason, I would definitely still thread the two non-dowel pin bolts evenly with the bolts that have the dowel pins. Otherwise, the pushrod against the cylinder might cause the sprocket cover to cock while the dowel pin bolts are being threaded in. Thread all evenly so the sprocket cover remains flush and all points on the sprocket cover are drawn together flat with the engine case simutaneously. I’ll do a full tutorial on this in the hopefully not too distant future.
 
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and I would say, NO do not attempt to compress the slave cylinder before installing the sprocket cover like you would with brake caliper cylinders. A) the slave will have extended fully by the time you get the cover ready to draw into place, B) the pushrod aligns perfectly with its hole in the underside of the cylinder if the cylinder is fully extended against the retainer plate, C) a fully extended slave cylinder does not seem to prevent the sprocket cover from going onto the dowel pins evenly, the dowel pins are probably designed to hold the sprocket cover at the same distance from the engine case as the slave cylinder does when fully extended.
 
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