Gen2 Hayabusa Rear Wheel Removal

Mythos

Registered
Gen 2 Hayabusa Rear Wheel Removal
The service manual recommends loosening the rear axle adjuster lock nuts and adjuster bolts. If you do this, you will need to adjust the drive chain to the proper tension after reinstalling the wheel. It is not necessary to loosen the adjuster screws or locknuts to remove the rear wheel.

Be careful with rotors. Lean the wheels against a wall when they are removed or place them on a wheel stand. Do not lay the wheels on the ground or let them bump against objects.

The rear sprocket carrier is pressure fit to the cush drive in the rear wheel hub. Be careful that the sprocket carrier does not fall out of the cush drive. Never lift the rear wheel by the sprocket or the sprocket carrier may slip out allowing the wheel to fall. If the cush drive is loose, inspect it and determine if you need to change the rubbers before reinstalling the wheel (see Rear Wheel Inspection, steps 1 through 5).

The cush drive on my rear wheel did not fit tight the first time I took the wheel off.

The axles are often very tight from the factory. You may wish to follow the procedures for loosening the rear axle nut, front axle pinch bolts and front axle bolt before putting the bike up on stands. With the bike on its side stand, it may be less apt to be levered over with heavy torqueing. Be aware that the side stand can fold closed however. Be very cautious of a tip over any time you loosen the axles whether on a stand or the side stand.

Tools:
front a rear stands
Telephone books
Sharpie marker
36mm axle nut socket
24” breaker bar
rag
wire
tape
high temp axle grease
rubber mallet
Torque wrenches


Rear Wheel Removal
Do Ahead:
Remove the Rear brake caliper. (see Brake Caliper Removal, steps 1 through 5).

1. Lift the bike on front a rear stand. If the front tire will be removed, lift the front on a front stand now as well. A fork lift stand will work better for front wheel removal than a steering stem stand.

Place Telephone books under the wheel so that the wheel will be supported as the axle is removed. Notice there are books stacked in front of the wheel as well as in back.

1602625



2. Use a Sharpiemarker to mark a drive chain link to the tooth it is engaged with.

1602626

Marking the chain link to the sprocket tooth will allow the chain to be reinstalled so that it follows the established wear pattern.

3. Use a 36mm axle nut socketand a 24” breaker barto remove the rear axle nut. Remove the washer and the righthand adjuster block.

1602627



4. Press the rear axle through the swingarm, rear brake caliper bracket and wheel bearings while lifting up on the rear wheel. Do not force the axle if it binds, rather shift the alignment the parts so the axle slides through smoothly.

1602628



5. Pull the rear axle out of the left side of the swingarm while lifting up on the rear wheel. Remove the left hand axle adjuster block.

1602629



6. Wrap a rag around the swingarm brace. Twist a piece of wire around it to secure the drive chain when it is removed from the sprocket.

Push the wheel as far as it will go forward until it hits the front inside of the swingarm. Lift the chain off of the rear sprocket being careful to not let it fall off of the front sprocket.

1602630



7. Tie the chain to the swingarm with the wire so that the chain is supported off of the ground and cannot fall off of the front sprocket.

1602631



8. Pull the rear wheel out along with the rear brake caliper bracket. Be careful not to drop the bracket as it slides out of the groove it is engaged with inside the swingarm.

Be careful that the sprocket carrier does not fall out of the wheel hub if the cush drive is loose.

1602632



9. Remove the collar from the sprocket side of the rear wheel and use a Sharpie to mark the side that faces out.

1602633

It seems as though the collar can be installed with either side facing out but I mark mine so that it can be reinstalled exactly the way it always has been.

If the sprocket carrier fits loosely in the cush drive, it could fall out. You may want to remove the sprocket carrier or tapeit around the wheel hub to prevent this. If the sprocket carrier comes out, be careful to prevent the retainer tube inside from falling out of it. You also may consider replacing the cush drive rubbers if they are worn out (see Rear Wheel Inspection
, steps 1 through 5).


11. Remove the spacer from the rotor side of the rear wheel.

1602634



Rear Wheel Installation

12. Install the collar to the sprocket side of the wheel and the spacer to the rotor side of the wheel as they were marked.

Clean away any sand or dirt that may be present onthe swing arm slots.

1602635



13. Place books under the rear wheel to raise the rear wheel to the proper height as shown in step 1 of this tutorial. The correct height will be different if the tire was changed.

Roll the wheel so that the collar is flush to the LH inside of the swingarm.

1602636


Observe the location of the groove in he swingarm that mates to the rear brake caliper mount spline.

Roll the rear wheel forward while pushing the rear brake caliper mount with it. Mate the rear brake caliper mount spline to the slot in the swingarm.

1602637



14. Visually align the path of the axle through the swingarmand the wheel hub.

1602638



15. Roll the wheel all the way forward in the swingarm and install the drive chain to the rear sprocket as marked in step 2 of this tutorial.

1602639



16. Remove any grit or sand from the threads of the rear axle and install the LH axle adjuster block to the rear axle.

Apply a high temp axle greaseto the rear axle on the area that will pass through the wheel hub.

1602640



17. Push the rear axle into the LH side of the swingarm slot. It will probably not go all the way through but do not force it. Shift the wheel in the swingarm or lift the wheel slightly so the parts align. I also believe the middle of the axle hole drops down under gravity causing some obstruction. Have patients and press the axle through with just a little pressure applied to it.

1602641



18. Install the RH axle adjuster block to the swingarm.

Install the washer and thread the axle nut onto the rear axle finger tight.

1602642



19. Use a rubber malletor your fist to thump the rear wheel in tight against the axle adjuster blocks.

1602643



20. Use a 36mm axle nut socket to torquethe rear axle nut.

1602644


Rear Axle Nut, Torque: 72.5 ft lbs

Install Rear Brake Caliper(see steps 6 through 13, Rear Brake Caliper Removal).


 
Last edited:
#ThankYouDaRon ~ #WeNeedTheseProcedures *



You're more than welcome. Helps me too. I always look at my own tutorials when I do the procedure.
 
...going to use these tutorials this weekend.....

Great resource for certain....

I'm going to change the rear sprocket but not the chain as it is in perfect condition, I just want to get a lighter, better looking sprocket on there...
 
….good thing I started to take this apart (no patience), the rear pads were all but gone...a new set of HH sintered pads are in there now. I am surprised how easy it is to change the pads on this bike.
 
….good thing I started to take this apart (no patience), the rear pads were all but gone...a new set of HH sintered pads are in there now. I am surprised how easy it is to change the pads on this bike.
Remove one bolt, lift the caliper and the pads are there looking at you, hey? I have to change mine soon too.
 
I'm dreaming of owning Berringer calipers for the busa some day. Might not be so easy....and I might need to change them more often than every ten years if the brakes actually start to do something!!! :laugh:
Hi I have the ones for gen 1. I also have the clutch and brake masters I have the rear caliper and DME light weight rotor bun not the rear beringer master or front rotors. I have the Ti pistons and bolts that hold the calipers together and aluminum banjos and bolts. total cost about $4,500.00.
 
Hi I have the ones for gen 1. I also have the clutch and brake masters I have the rear caliper and DME light weight rotor bun not the rear beringer master or front rotors. I have the Ti pistons and bolts that hold the calipers together and aluminum banjos and bolts. total cost about $4,500.00.
I'll bet that is one sweet looking setup. Little pricey but I'd do it in a year or two. I have my eye on that cool rear brake MC or the thumb brake, too.

Did the Berringers give that bike some brakes for a change?
 
Used the method for removing wheel for tyre change ,much easier than having to adjust chain
Thanks Mythos
Gen 2 Hayabusa Rear Wheel Removal
The service manual recommends loosening the rear axle adjuster lock nuts and adjuster bolts. If you do this, you will need to adjust the drive chain to the proper tension after reinstalling the wheel. It is not necessary to loosen the adjuster screws or locknuts to remove the rear wheel.

Be careful with rotors. Lean the wheels against a wall when they are removed or place them on a wheel stand. Do not lay the wheels on the ground or let them bump against objects.

The rear sprocket carrier is pressure fit to the cush drive in the rear wheel hub. Be careful that the sprocket carrier does not fall out of the cush drive. Never lift the rear wheel by the sprocket or the sprocket carrier may slip out allowing the wheel to fall. If the cush drive is loose, inspect it and determine if you need to change the rubbers before reinstalling the wheel (see Rear Wheel Inspection, steps 1 through 5).

The cush drive on my rear wheel did not fit tight the first time I took the wheel off.

The axles are often very tight from the factory. You may wish to follow the procedures for loosening the rear axle nut, front axle pinch bolts and front axle bolt before putting the bike up on stands. With the bike on its side stand, it may be less apt to be levered over with heavy torqueing. Be aware that the side stand can fold closed however. Be very cautious of a tip over any time you loosen the axles whether on a stand or the side stand.

Tools:
front a rear stands
Telephone books
Sharpie marker
36mm axle nut socket
24” breaker bar
rag
wire
tape
high temp axle grease
rubber mallet
Torque wrenches


Rear Wheel Removal
Do Ahead:
Remove the Rear brake caliper. (see Brake Caliper Removal, steps 1 through 5).

1. Lift the bike on front a rear stand. If the front tire will be removed, lift the front on a front stand now as well. A fork lift stand will work better for front wheel removal than a steering stem stand.

Place Telephone books under the wheel so that the wheel will be supported as the axle is removed. Notice there are books stacked in front of the wheel as well as in back.

View attachment 1602625


2. Use a Sharpiemarker to mark a drive chain link to the tooth it is engaged with.

View attachment 1602626
Marking the chain link to the sprocket tooth will allow the chain to be reinstalled so that it follows the established wear pattern.

3. Use a 36mm axle nut socketand a 24” breaker barto remove the rear axle nut. Remove the washer and the righthand adjuster block.

View attachment 1602627


4. Press the rear axle through the swingarm, rear brake caliper bracket and wheel bearings while lifting up on the rear wheel. Do not force the axle if it binds, rather shift the alignment the parts so the axle slides through smoothly.

View attachment 1602628


5. Pull the rear axle out of the left side of the swingarm while lifting up on the rear wheel. Remove the left hand axle adjuster block.

View attachment 1602629


6. Wrap a rag around the swingarm brace. Twist a piece of wire around it to secure the drive chain when it is removed from the sprocket.

Push the wheel as far as it will go forward until it hits the front inside of the swingarm. Lift the chain off of the rear sprocket being careful to not let it fall off of the front sprocket.

View attachment 1602630


7. Tie the chain to the swingarm with the wire so that the chain is supported off of the ground and cannot fall off of the front sprocket.

View attachment 1602631


8. Pull the rear wheel out along with the rear brake caliper bracket. Be careful not to drop the bracket as it slides out of the groove it is engaged with inside the swingarm.

Be careful that the sprocket carrier does not fall out of the wheel hub if the cush drive is loose.

View attachment 1602632


9. Remove the collar from the sprocket side of the rear wheel and use a Sharpie to mark the side that faces out.

View attachment 1602633
It seems as though the collar can be installed with either side facing out but I mark mine so that it can be reinstalled exactly the way it always has been.

If the sprocket carrier fits loosely in the cush drive, it could fall out. You may want to remove the sprocket carrier or tapeit around the wheel hub to prevent this. If the sprocket carrier comes out, be careful to prevent the retainer tube inside from falling out of it. You also may consider replacing the cush drive rubbers if they are worn out (see Rear Wheel Inspection
, steps 1 through 5).


11. Remove the spacer from the rotor side of the rear wheel.

View attachment 1602634


Rear Wheel Installation

12. Install the collar to the sprocket side of the wheel and the spacer to the rotor side of the wheel as they were marked.

Clean away any sand or dirt that may be present onthe swing arm slots.

View attachment 1602635


13. Place books under the rear wheel to raise the rear wheel to the proper height as shown in step 1 of this tutorial. The correct height will be different if the tire was changed.

Roll the wheel so that the collar is flush to the LH inside of the swingarm.

View attachment 1602636

Observe the location of the groove in he swingarm that mates to the rear brake caliper mount spline.

Roll the rear wheel forward while pushing the rear brake caliper mount with it. Mate the rear brake caliper mount spline to the slot in the swingarm.

View attachment 1602637


14. Visually align the path of the axle through the swingarmand the wheel hub.

View attachment 1602638


15. Roll the wheel all the way forward in the swingarm and install the drive chain to the rear sprocket as marked in step 2 of this tutorial.

View attachment 1602639


16. Remove any grit or sand from the threads of the rear axle and install the LH axle adjuster block to the rear axle.

Apply a high temp axle greaseto the rear axle on the area that will pass through the wheel hub.

View attachment 1602640


17. Push the rear axle into the LH side of the swingarm slot. It will probably not go all the way through but do not force it. Shift the wheel in the swingarm or lift the wheel slightly so the parts align. I also believe the middle of the axle hole drops down under gravity causing some obstruction. Have patients and press the axle through with just a little pressure applied to it.

View attachment 1602641


18. Install the RH axle adjuster block to the swingarm.

Install the washer and thread the axle nut onto the rear axle finger tight.

View attachment 1602642


19. Use a rubber malletor your fist to thump the rear wheel in tight against the axle adjuster blocks.

View attachment 1602643


20. Use a 36mm axle nut socket to torquethe rear axle nut.

View attachment 1602644

Rear Axle Nut, Torque: 72.5 ft lbs

Install Rear Brake Caliper(see steps 6 through 13, Rear Brake Caliper Removal).


 
Used the method for removing wheel for tyre change ,much easier than having to adjust chain
Thanks Mythos
Yeah, I was amazed when I was told it's not necessary to touch the adjuster bolts at all when the rear wheel is removed. The service manual for both my bikes says to loosen both adjusters when removing the rear wheel.
 
The rear wheel's been off the bike for about 18 months. I'm putting it back together now and I accidentally inserted the axle from the RH side of the bike. It went through without too much fussing with the wheel. I don't think it's a problem to have the axle nut on the LH side or the RH side but I like it on the RH side and that's also how the service manual says it should go. I decided to take the axle out and insert it from the LH side. That sucker wouldn't budge no matter which way I shimmied the wheel. I tried lifting and I tried pressing down...it wouldn't move. I did not press as hard as I possibly could but I did press hard, probably 40 lbs of pressure. I hated to do it but I lightly tapped on the end of the axle with a soft rubberized wrench handle. About 5 inch swings, not too hard, light quick tap tap taps. Three rounds of tapping. The wrench weighs a little over a 1/2 lb I'd say. The axle moved little by little until it stuck out about and inch on the other side. Then I pulled it carefully by hand but it still didn't come out easy.

I have to move this bike by the end of the month so I'm off to insert the axle from the LH side as it should. The axle was greased just prior to being installed. No sign of damage to the axle but it does have some blackish wear marks on it, from the bearings I guess. I hope I didn't press my bearings in by tapping with the wrench. Any ideas what the heck happened?
 
Before I tapped with the wrench, I even took the books out from under the wheel and turned the wheeel a little that didn't seem to help. So I felt my only option was tapping it out.
 
Before I tapped with the wrench, I even took the books out from under the wheel and turned the wheeel a little that didn't seem to help. So I felt my only option was tapping it out.
Maybe a light build up of dust on the inside of the inner bearings?

I had that happen (axle sticking) on my GSXR years ago and had no issues...
 
Maybe a light build up of dust on the inside of the inner bearings?

I had that happen (axle sticking) on my GSXR years ago and had no issues...
Possible, Bumblebee. I doubt there's much airflow in the storage unit to stir up a lot of dust. I was thinking maybe a little rust? I grease the axle so there's grease in the axle hole too. Whatever the case may be, I inserted the axle from the left and it slid right through like butter. I'm thinking maybe that's how the patrs have worn together. I also think this might have happened several years ago. Whatever, it's solved.

I like to have the axle nut on the RH side so when I tighten it, it pulls the axle blocks toward the axle adjusters instead of vice versa. It also balances out the bling if you have an aftermarket sprocket on one side and a fancy axle nut on the other.
 
Back
Top