Gen2 big bore kit

[hollywooduno]

Does anyone have or know of someone that has a gen2 big bore kit in stock? I’m going to be dropping the motor and splitting the cases due to a transmission issue and would like to do some power mods while it’s out but cannot wait the 8 week lead time millennium is quoting.

 

[RedBull]

Bore Or turbo? or BOTH! | General Bike Related Topics

ok the question remains. Is it safe to bore with a turbo? TTS sells may kits to for the 99-06 hayabusa but there site is miss printed and kinda out of date "thanks webmaster" After calling them and making shur the kits will fit my 05 Hayabusa, now im wonder what bore I want to pick. 1363cc...

www.hayabusa.org

 

[Berlin Germany]

@hollywooduno

my calculations tell me that e.g. a dia 83 mm bigbore increases the capacity by incredible 4.7 per cents

maaaaaaaaaaaaaaan

what an increase 1299 to 1364 ccm - what an unbelievable new volume - seems barely manageable.

irony end
________________________________________________________________

my exps - arose from miserable experience with a turbo with 83 pistons

the head gasket is in constant danger of blowing through
the 1/3 narrower partitions between the cylinders
the heat balance in the cooling circuit is slightly out of balance - a 2nd fan should be installed and always start up with the 1st
the costs are immense - (prices here in germany - only material)
drilling and honing approx. 500 €
new nikasil coating approx. 600 €
83 piston set woesner approx. 700 €
83 head gasket approx. 120 €
sum - round 2000 €

for basically nothing, except for a constantly endangered engine

my tip
if you want a little more acceleration change the rear sprocket from the standard 40 to 43 or 44 teeth - THAT should be enough to get the front wheel up when shifting

if you don't like that, add a 6-8" longer swingarm

if you really want to have a LOT more power, then build a turbo on it and let it press up to 0.8 / 1.2 bar (300 / 380 hp) but leave the cylinder bore original.

the big bore is a shear nonsense and is only a mental bobo prolongering.

exept you fight at the drag race for the last hp - then costs are no more an argument - see what @202mphbusa built and ask him what invest he did the last years.

if u won´t believe me ask kojak - member here at the org and a good buddy.
in the last 20 years i guess he already built more than 2 dozens of turbo haya and all of em with standard piston sizes

so save ur money and your time

change the rear sprocket (max. 50 bucks)

and train how to manage best the interaction between throttle and clutch lever.

 

[busakiller]

Have you checked Rob bush Motorsports? I know he spends a lot of money on parts to have them in stock. I know he carry’s billet blocks in stock he should have oem bored blocks in stock. They might be out of town right now for the big race this weekend.

 

[Busa Quick]

+1 for Rob Bush. With that said, make sure you have all of the parts you need before the engine comes apart, otherwise it may sit a long time. It is hard to get parts right now.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

+1 for Rob Bush. With that said, make sure you have all of the parts you need before the engine comes apart, otherwise it may sit a long time. It is hard to get parts right now.

Hi. I went from 1299cc to 1340cc buy stroking it 2mm I had JE pistons make custom pistons and Corrillo rods made custom rods so I could feel the 20mm piston pins. The bike is a very hight HP LSR/ street bike. Over 800HP.

 

[Dnyce]

List your current mods and goals for the bike, as mentioned a 1441cc Busa costs a fair amount for what u actually get. Maybe the good folks here can help steer you to your goal better.

If u just want it (it’s your money, do your thing) APE usually has them in stock for exchange, pistons and block ready to go.

 

[Tony Nitrous]

I’ve run a big bore kit but not on a Busa. Mine was on an aircooled GSX1100 that was street and drags. The final build was dyno’d and made near enough zero extra hp, but…. the bike was set up to make a heap more midrange torque, it pulled harder through a wider rev range and was quicker at the strip, easier to ride fast and less rev / gear fussy. No dyno sheet and bullshit numbers to brag about in the pub, but a genuinely faster bike.

 

[pcs]

i saw a few kits on ebay ready to ship for a gen 2

 

[ottafish]

My engine builder told me a 1441 will give you eye watering low and midrange torque pull that'll rip your arms off..
That's what I'm talking about..

 

[michael parris heuberger]

My engine builder told me a 1441 will give you eye watering low and midrange torque pull that'll rip your arms off..
That's what I'm talking about..

Hi. I have always liked the 1507 builds.

 

[hollywooduno]

List your current mods and goals for the bike, as mentioned a 1441cc Busa costs a fair amount for what u actually get. Maybe the good folks here can help steer you to your goal better.

If u just want it (it’s your money, do your thing) APE usually has them in stock for exchange, pistons and block ready to go.

This is a fair question. First - I want to thank all for the replies. I have been out of cell range for the last few days so haven't had a chance to respond, but I do appreciate the input.

Current mods are zero. The bike is stock. I recently had a false neutral between 5th and 6th and if the cases need to be split it seems silly to put it back together stock. I am not a drag racer and I am not interested in 1/4 mile time or inching out the last tenth. I use the bike for 70% commuting, 10% canyon riding, and 20% sport touring roadtrips.

With all that in mind, reliability is key for my needs. And longevity between services. A turbo introduces far more complexity that I really want to deal with on the side of the highway. A BB n/a build on the other hand should be mostly stock aside from the big gains in low end torque which is highly useful in commuting/hwy roadtripping and passing.

I will call Rob Bush in the morning. APE does not stock Gen2 kits as it sounds like most Gen2 guys go with Gen1 blocks for this purpose. As the bike is already down and I am making it rain with the gas money in my truck, I will probably end up putting it back together stock, with upgraded gears if Rob cannot help.


Thanks all for the input!

 

[Dnyce]

Personal opinion based on your answer, U can drop the trans out the bottom and not open the top end so leave it stock, and tune it. You’ll probably be happy.

Also a well built low boost turbo is just as reliable as a big bore mostly stock build, there’s a guy on here that tours and stuff, tons of miles, stock looking cans and saddle bags and a turbo. Just costs more.

 

[greg3852]

Better off buying an already built 1441 so you don’t have to eat the cost of going big bore. It gets very pricey quickly and you’ll end up having a game of cat and mouse for a while while the weakest links break.

Buy one already done and have less headaches and less cost.

 

[sixpack577]

One or a few false neutrals between 5th and 6th really isn't a concern, and not uncommon.
I'de ride it unless it becomes a regular thing.
Some Gen1's have 2nd gear issues, and rarely Gen2's do as well.
When 2nd slips, is the time to have the transmission undercut.
A good ecu flash, dyno tune, and full exhaust will very noticeably wake the bike up, and a +3 rear sprocket makes it Alot of fun, with the rpm's up only around 600, with little loss to top end, it also fits the stock length chain.