Gen II, Brock's CT pipes and Bazzaz

[Got-Busa?]

So that why you can go wot in 1st and 2nd gear??

from my dunce stool via tapatalk

Yep...

You need to have a base map done on an eddy current dyno. The map must be done from the 0% throttle all the way to 100% through all the rpm ranges. Once that has been done you can use the ZAFM to monitor your A/F. Remember the ZAFM averages your A/F throughout the sampling period. Everytime you let off the throttle you will get a lean spike and it will throw your numbers off.

After a good dyno tune you will very rarely need to make adjustments.

+1

Custom tune is always recommended IF you have a shop that knows what they are doing. For the street you need it from 0-100% throttle, otherwise it will run like crap down low and scream when WOT...

I have the full exhaust. I will post the pictures tomorrow (with the fairings off).
Brock's only gave me the standard slip-on map. It is not doing much for me.
I also have the AFM module.

I have a Bazzaz map for my Alien head you are welcome to try until you get a custom tune. Send me your email if you want it..

Well i guess your saying that the tech guys over there basicaly lied to my face!(well over the phone) I paid almost 2 grand for an exhaust and a full on race map spcific for the CT and to boot he will not post on a web site for just anybody to down load??? I'm not saying your not right but i would be very dissapointed and pi$$ed if you were. I had to go through an act of congress just to get the friggen map lol. What you said makes since and not trying to get a debate started just going on what i was told. However like i said 1-2 hp at most if i had it dyno tuned.

What you have to understand is EVERY BIKE is different. For 95% of his customers that map is probably pretty close. There are always bikes that make more/less power that will require a custom tune. There are variables in everything so it just depends. For a customer that will NEVER see the track, they probably won't notice a 2-3hp difference. For those looking to get every last bit of horsepower wanting to go faster, a custom tune should always be considered before anything else. A simple A/F check on a reputable dyno will give you ball park needs for YOUR particular bike...

 

[Jacobs]

Justin - he might be "okay" with the canned map from Bazzaz, but any dyno tuner who is honest will tell you that a generic "canned" map - just like someone else's map - is junk. All bikes are different, and every modified bike should be tuned properly on an eddy-current, air/fuel dyno for optimal results . . .

Absolutely agree. My bike ran like crap with the "canned" bazzaz map with my R-77 system on it and after comparing the differences in the original map vs. Ryan Schnitz dyno tune map, it's very easy to see.

 

[Jacobs]

To add another note in here, dyno tuning isn't just ONLY to see peak horsepower. It's also to achieve a smooth running bike from idle to Redline.

 

[POWERHOUSE]

To add another note in here, dyno tuning isn't just ONLY to see peak horsepower. It's also to achieve a smooth running bike from idle to Redline.

Justin - a very important and great note. I don't spend two+ hours in the dyno room just working on 100% throttle. The steady-state and cruise areas, all the different throttle positions - have to be tuned throughout the range of rpm that a particular bike will see. In fact, I have found that attention paid to the rest of the map increases peak hp as well. Throttle response, midrange, driveability - all of it is as important as the final hp and torque numbers. And I have also found that the sooner in the rpm and TP that a bike gets into the proper AFR, the more power it will make across the board and on top.