Gen I Hayabusa Front Brake Problem /Drag

angelo

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Does anyone know any problems with the front brakes on a Gen 1 Busa? Put now rotors, brakes, calipers, and stainless steel brake lines. Flushed fluid. On lift front wheel drags.
 
Does anyone know any problems with the front brakes on a Gen 1 Busa? Put now rotors, brakes, calipers, and stainless steel brake lines. Flushed fluid. On lift front wheel drags.
I still have the stock calipers on my 99........so yes,,,,,they do drag a bit........I have rebuilt them and that helped but sorry,,,,,I don't have a solution for you.
 
Does the wheel spin at least one full rotation on it's own momentum when you spin it by hand? I don't think my front wheel turns more than that if I shove it as hard as I can. The pads are meant to skim the rotors when you ride. Grab the brake and they squeeze the rotor. There is nothing to pull the pads back away from the rotor after the pads squeeze. The rotor bumps them back out as you ride until they are just skimming again. That's how they're supposed to work. If they're not dragging too hard, take the bike for a short ride and don't use the front brake at all. When you end the ride are the rotors hot? Do they still drag? If the rotors are not hot from friction and if the wheel now spins more freely, the brakes are normal.

Obviously you were able to get the wheel on so the pads must open wide enough to admit the rotors.

Aftermarket rotors come in different thicknesses and aftermarket calipers are designed for a range of rotor thickness. Are your rotors the proper thickness for the calipers?
 
Does the wheel spin at least one full rotation on it's own momentum when you spin it by hand? I don't think my front wheel turns more than that if I shove it as hard as I can. The pads are meant to skim the rotors when you ride. Grab the brake and they squeeze the rotor. There is nothing to pull the pads back away from the rotor after the pads squeeze. The rotor bumps them back out as you ride until they are just skimming again. That's how they're supposed to work. If they're not dragging too hard, take the bike for a short ride and don't use the front brake at all. When you end the ride are the rotors hot? Do they still drag? If the rotors are not hot from friction and if the wheel now spins more freely, the brakes are normal.

Obviously you were able to get the wheel on so the pads must open wide enough to admit the rotors.

Aftermarket rotors come in different thicknesses and aftermarket calipers are designed for a range of rotor thickness. Are your rotors the proper thickness for the calipers?
I get about a half a turn spin the wheel it's not a full turn on its own the brakes are great they work pretty good I still have that drag I know there's going to be some Dragon but it's kind of stiff
 
Without trying a spin on my front wheel, I'd say a half spin might be a little tight. It's been years since I tried it so I can't say 100% that half a revolution isn't normal. If the rotors aren't getting real hot after a normal ride, maybe go out and do some hard braking to wear the pads in to the rotor. I noticed with new rotors, the pads don't contact across the entire surface area until they wear in to the rotor. Once yours wear in, maybe they will not drag so hard.
 
Guess it's pretty normal...
I SS lines as well and my front right pad would touch the stock rotor during slow riding (x<20MPH). pretty annoying. I replaced the pads with EBC HH and the rotors with Galfer Waves about two months ago. Pads definitely touch and there is a lot more drag trying to walk with the bike now. Guess it just has to wear down.
 
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You say 'new calipers' . . are they actually new, or just used from another bike?
You may need to check if all the pistons are free to slide easily thru the seals, if you have a sticky piston (dry in the seal) that will cause drag.
Also, cheap aftermarket pads often are too thick and bottom out on the caliper body putting pressure on the rotor surface.
Also when you fitted the rotors to the wheel, was the mounting surface perfectly clean?
Just a few things to consider . . .
 
(...) the brakes are great they work pretty good I still have that drag I know there's going to be some Dragon but it's kind of stiff

sorry but, for me, that is a contradiction in terms
either they work very well
or you have some unwanted resistance (drag?) / kind of stiff(ness?)

my recomendation - for gen1, tokico calipers (100% equal to some kawa calipers) - would be to put them into pieces (all pistons and seals out) and clean the calipers as deep as possible.

the grooves of the seals in the gen1 calipers and the seals themselves become soiled / encrusted
(see this horror pic :shocked:, taken of a ´99 , mai 2020)
ep3%20-%20Kolben%20raus%20-%20Beginn%20Reinigung_1.jpg

over approx. 30 - 35,000 km that the pistons can no longer move in and out with ease.
this causes the spongy / stiff feeling when pulling the lever.

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a bit basics to
front brakes and their hoses

the best result you will have with steel braided hoses
the best hoses you can use are two loooong hoses from pump to each caliper

the cross over hose is a kind of collector of air bubbles
because it is the highest point where the bubbles collect
and what can´t be bleeded without bigger works.

the 2 longs are always going upwards to the pump and its reservoir so the do a kind of self-bleeding.
by this the danger of air in the hose is definitely zero - only inside the calipers can stay / resist a little bubble if the bleeding is not done at its best.

with 2 longs the spongyness find its end.
 
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