Gen 2 RCC stage 1 install step by step

Boosted Cycle Perf

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We’ve had a lot of requests here recently for install directions. RCC does include them with their kits. However I will admit, I haven’t read them in years, and maybe guys need some more pics... or they’re parting together a kit in which case you probably didn’t get the directions with it.

This is the way I do it. After years of installing these kits, this is the quickest way I’ve found to do it. I’ll also include some “pro tips” on things that I commonly get asked about.

I’m going to skip pics of taking fairings off and all that stuff as that should go without saying.

In order to be ready to start installing this is what you should have done.
1: Drain the oil, and remove/clean oil pan.
2: Remove oil cooler and lines. Save the O-rings and M6 Allen bolts from the lines.
3: Drain, and remove radiator, and hoses. Installs can be done without doing this, but it makes things WAY easier when installing the turbo/header.
4: Drain and remove the fuel tank via the 2 12mm bolts on each side of the hinge.
5: remove factory air box, and remove the air temp sensor and plug it back in to the bike.
6: Remove the pair valve solenoid, lines, and bracket.
7:Remove throttle bodies. (I also strongly recommend sending injectors off to be cleaned and tested.)
8: Remove the nose fairing, and left side ram air tube.

**PRO TIP** Specially on older bikes, it’s well worth taking a few min to run a tap through all of the header bolt holes on the head. This makes it way easier to get the bottom bolts in most of the way with your fingers cutting header install time in half. M8X1.25 Tap.

**PRO TIP** Take advantage of the open space to install a new set of spark plugs. The iridium will work, but I don’t suggest them. Get a fresh set of NGK CR9E’s and close the gap down to .018.
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Once you’ve received your kit, and relived your kid on Christmas morning memories, let’s get to work.

Rcc includes a zip lock back with various small parts. You’ll want to grab the -8 oil line and fitting.

If you don’t already have one, spend a few bucks and get the stepper drill bit from Harbor Freight. It makes quick work of drilling the hole in the oil pan, and later on the fuel sump.

Take the nut off the 90* fitting and place it on the oil pan to mark where you want to drill. You’ll want the hole as low and forward as possible, while allowing for you to get a wrench on the nut.
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Go ahead and drill the hole, and open it up to 3/4”. Take your time and go up a step at a time. It’s easy to over drill.

Then slide the fitting in, and carefully side the rubber washer down till it meets the pan. Install the metal washer, and then the nut and tighten it down. Make sure the fitting is level with the bottom of the pan.

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Go ahead, and reinstall the oil pan. If you didn’t notice, there’s 2 longer oil pan bolts. Those go in the holes directly below the oil filter. There’s also one bolt that has a small gasket on it. That goes in the hole at the very back of the pan, on the right side, beneath the clutch cover.

Next you’ll want to grab the oil cooler block off plates. If you haven’t done so yet, remove the factory orings off the oil cooler and use them on the supplied oil block off plates. You’ll also use the oem Allen bolts off the cooler lines.

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One is on the oil filter mount, the other is on the oil pan.

While you’re down there, Remove the oil filter, and take out the oil restrictor. Then reinstall a new oil filter.

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Now you’ll want to find the turbo oil feed fitting in the ziplock bag. This is simple just remove the plug out of the lower engine case below the crankshaft cover. Insert and tighten down the M16 bolt. Then install the banjo fitting. Make sure you have a copper washer on each side of the fitting. Leave this hand tight. You’ll want to adjust the angle a little once the oil line is connected. (I didn’t have a pic, so this it one off a completed bike)

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Now the fun starts. There’s four M8x1.25 bolts in the ziplock bag with 10mm hex heads. You’ll need these. If you don’t have a 12 point 10mm open end wrench, it’s worth the time and a few extra bucks to get one. You’ll understand very quickly why a 12 point wrench makes life so much easier. You’ll also want to grab the turbo/header assembly.

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Grab 4 original exhaust header bolts, and have them ready. Lift the turbo/header assembly up and place it in the head, then on the top row, thread the Allen bolts in a few threads so the turbo assembly hangs freely. Then by hand, spin the Allen bolts in until the header spigots start to go in to the head. Make sure those bolts are about the same amount. You should then be able to stick your hand freely behind the header. At this point, take the 10mm hex head bolts and get them started.

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Now start running the bottom bolts in by hand. It’s at this point you’ll appreciate the extra effort you took to run a tap through those holes. Progress each of the lower bolts a little at a time. It’s easy to get the two middle bolts in too far and the the outside lower bolts will bind up on the header runner. If a bolt gets hard to turn, wiggle the turbo assembly a little and you’ll find a spot where the bolt will keep turning in easily. Keep doing this until the header is nearly fully seated inside the head.

Once you’ve gotten the bottom bolts in as far as you can by hand, start cranking them down with your 12 point 10mm open end wrench. Again, going a little at a time on each lower bolt, and get them as tight as you can. You still shouldn’t of touch the top row yet.
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Once the bottom row is tightened down, go ahead and tighten the top row. A little at a time, and jump between bolts. Like a 2-4-1-3 pattern. Get them nice and tight. After that grab your 10mm again, and tighten up the bottom row. You may find after the top row was snugged down, the bottom row may need another turn or two on them. Then do the top once more.

**PRO TIP** OEM suzuki exhaust gaskets are a copper color. In most cases it’s perfectly okay to reuse the gaskets. It’s very rare I ever see a leak on a properly installed turbo header. Feel free to install a new set of exhaust gaskets if you so choose. But make sure you buy OEM SUZUKI gaskets. Any of the aftermarket gaskets are a silver color, and are significantly thinner then oem. If you bought your bike use and it had an exhaust on it, you’ll want to pay attention to the color of the gaskets. If silver gaskets are installed, the turbo header will not seal.
 
Find the oil return flange in the ziplock bag. The bolts and gasket are usually on the turbo from RCC. Install the flange with the supplied bolts, and gasket. DO NOT apply any rtv or gasket sealer on the drain flange or gasket. Just make sure the bolts are tight.
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Now you’ll want to grab the oil drain hose that was attached the the fitting you installed on the oil pan.

The drain hose is always slightly longer then needed. You’ll need to trim the hose down to get the proper drain angle. Screw the -8 fitting on to the pan, and slip the hose on the turbo. You do not want any kinks in the hose. You also don’t want the hose to dip lower then the fitting in the pan. Cut a little at a time until it looks like this. Tighten the AN fitting on the pan first as it tends to spin the hose a little, then put the supplied hose clamp on, slip the hose back on the turbo, and tighten the clamp down.

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At this point you’ll want to unwind and attach the oil feed line to the banjo fitting you installed on the other side. Tighten the line, then snug up the banjo fitting at a slightly upward facing angle.
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Now it’s time to install the wastegate/dump assembly. The wastegate is usually installed on the dump flange, and sometimes it’s not. If it is, you may find it a lot easier to Acess the top bolt on the 5 bolt exhaust flange by removing the wastegate. The nuts and bolts on the Tial wastegate are STANDARD not metric size. You don’t want to strip these bolts.

There is no gasket between the turbo and dump flange. And there’s no need to use rtv or gasket maker here. Simply tighten down all 5 bolts nice and tight. After that, it’s a good time to reinstall the radiator and hoses.

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Moving to the top, now remove the breather cover on the back of the engine, and both of the pair valve feeds on the valve cover. You’ll need to remove the reed valve in all of these. Then simply reinstall the stripped assembly’s. On the valve cover use the supplied billet block off plates that are supplied in the ziplock bag.

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We can now modify the throttle bodies. Remove all the secondary throttle blades.

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Find the fuel rail adapter in the ziplock bag, along with the bundle of zip ties.

Remove the fuel rail. The injectors will come off with the rails. Be sure not to lose the small flat orings that seal the tip of the injectors in to the the throttle bodies. Be careful where you pull on the fuel rails as it’s easy to break off the electrical connections of the fuel injectors.

Lightly twist and pull the two half’s of the fuel rail apart to remove the factory fuel line connector. Using a small pick, Remove the orings from the factory connector and install them on the supplied fuel rail insert. Dab a little oil, or wd-40 on the orings, and insert adapter back it to the fuel rails with the plug facing outwards. (Away from the throttle bodies. It’s inserted wrong in the picture here.)

Before reinstalling the fuel rail remove the clamp on the idle air hose, and remove it. You’ll need to cut about an inch off the end that attached to the throttle bodies. The goal here is to get the hose to fit on the inside of the fuel rail so it can be attached to the plenum later. Slide the modified hose back on and reuse the clamp.

Keep that little piece you cut off, you’ll need that later.

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If a few of the orings that seal the tip of the injectors to the throttle bodies are still in the throttle bodies, remove them, and put them on the tip of the injectors. This is the easiest way to get the injectors back in without pinching them when installing the fuel rail. Line the tips of the injectors in the holes, apply slight pressure and wiggle the rails slightly when installing. Take your time. Once the injectors are close to fully being seated then you can put the fuel rail bolts in and tighten them down making sure the injectors are seating properly.

Lastly, zip tie all the vacuum lines on the throttle bodies with the exception of the “Tee” in the very middle that goes to the factory map sensor. That tee is getting replaced later with the new 3 bar map sensor.

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Been at a stand still on this bike as I’m waiting on the rest of the parts to show up. It’s getting lowered, and a swing arm, along with a new chain and sprockets, speedo healer, and air shifter.

Remember that little section of hose I said to save from the idle air hose? That’s what you use to connect the breather filter to the crankcase vent.
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Next, from the trusty ziplock bag, grab the threaded inserts. You’ll need to install these to have a place to bolt the rear plenum straps to later.
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The way we have to install these isn’t exactly how they’re supposed to be installed, but not everyone has the tool, and honestly I don’t think the tool would fit in the space we have to work with. Some painters tape and a marker is a big help here for marking the holes.

On each side from the top mounts where the head bolts to the frame, measure back about 6”, and down from the top of the frame about 1.5”.

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If you look at the bottom of the threaded insert, you’ll notice a slight taper. This is the size of the hole you’re shooting for. You want fitment to be snug enough that you’ll have to tap it in with a hammer.

Once it’s in, you’ll want to crush it. You do this by holding the head of the bolt still, and turning the second bolt down so it crushes the insert to the back of the frame. You’ll want to get it very tight as you don’t want the threaded insert to turn. Do this on both sides.

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With that done, it’s now time to reinstall the throttle bodies.

**PRO TIP** Grab a stubby Phillips screwdriver and tighten down the throttle body boots where they attach to the head. It doesn’t matter how new the bike is, these are usually always loose. We want to make sure all the boost is making it in to the engine.

As always in the trusty ziplock back, grab the 3 bar map sensor. The “tee” at the end of the vacuum line goes where the factory map sensor was attached. Make sure you zip tie these connections as well. Then route the vacuum line around the throttle bodies on the right hand side, and secure the sensor with the 10mm bolt that was used to hold down the factory airbox. Lastly, locate the connector for the factory air box. Plug the harness from the new 3 bar map sensor in to it.

If one is so inclined, you may now set the billet air box on, and appreciate the fine billet machine work. Don’t secure it yet, as it’s a little easier to do the fuel lines with it off.
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Amazing job. very appreciate the effort.
Could you give me / us and estimate- how much is the kit... and how much would be the cost of having it get done by you versus (for free) doing it by ourselves.
Thanks...
 
Amazing job. very appreciate the effort.
Could you give me / us and estimate- how much is the kit... and how much would be the cost of having it get done by you versus (for free) doing it by ourselves.
Thanks...
Retail on this kit is $4450. I always strongly suggest the addition of a blow off valve ($395 option) along with an wideband o2 bung ($75 option) This kit here is shown with an optional black ceramic coating. Think that was $250 extra. Shipping is usually around $120.

So typically just get the kit to my shop to be installed is right at $5040.00 (I say typically because most don’t opt for ceramic coating)

I charge $2200 to install and tune a stage 1 kit. That also includes oil, filter, and coolant along with welding the fittings on for turbo oil return and fuel feed. I also street ride the bikes for at least 100 miles as quality assurance. The last thing I want, specially for out of state customers, is for someone to get their bike back with a tune issue or leak.
 
Before this gets made a sticky, maybe we should clean up a couple errors.
for starters, theres no reason to pull the reed valves out from under the block off plates. complete waste of time unless you want the "weight savings". you only need to remove them from the crankcase breather. the reason for this is that it can hold a very slight amount of case pressure, and that can impact the turbos ability to gravity drain properly. aka, if you dont pull them, the turbo is more likely to smoke.
second, the breather filter in the straight up position is more likely to get folded over by fuel lines etc when the tank goes down. If you were to read the instructions, you would see that it gets angled towards the 1 or 2 o clock position and stays out of the way better. I like using a section of the bent pair valve hose for this, but the standard vent hose works well too. if this hose gets bent or pinched, it can hold crank case pressure, and can also cause a turbo to smoke, so indexing it is important.

other than that, decent write up so far.
 
Before this gets made a sticky, maybe we should clean up a couple errors.
for starters, theres no reason to pull the reed valves out from under the block off plates. complete waste of time unless you want the "weight savings". you only need to remove them from the crankcase breather. the reason for this is that it can hold a very slight amount of case pressure, and that can impact the turbos ability to gravity drain properly. aka, if you dont pull them, the turbo is more likely to smoke.
second, the breather filter in the straight up position is more likely to get folded over by fuel lines etc when the tank goes down. If you were to read the instructions, you would see that it gets angled towards the 1 or 2 o clock position and stays out of the way better. I like using a section of the bent pair valve hose for this, but the standard vent hose works well too. if this hose gets bent or pinched, it can hold crank case pressure, and can also cause a turbo to smoke, so indexing it is important.

other than that, decent write up so far.

The Rcc delete plates are just about the only ones on the market that are milled from billet aluminum and have the recessed area that allows them to be bolted straight on. Pretty much every other block off plate on the market is cut out of aluminum plate. Using those dictate that the reed valves and screws be removed so the plate can sit flush and seal.

I decided to remove them for this to cover the potential reader in the future that’s piecing a kit together. If they sourced a cheap set off the internet, they’re likely going to be the flat ones, and will need the screws removed. I felt inclined to do it this way as I do occasionally have bikes show up for a tune with the flat style plates installed incorrectly.

As far as the crankcase breather, you got me on that one. Like I had mentioned before, last time I read the instructions was in 09, or 10. I remember them saying reuse part of a factory hose that was cut, and thought it was from the iac. So thanks for correcting me.

How I actually do it is turn the factory crankcase hose upside down, and stick the breather on it uncut. Then turn the hose so the first bend is in the 1 o’clock position and secure it to the right side rear plenum strap through the little eyelet on the breather. I’ve found the breather stays perfectly dry. Just helps keep the top of the trans area clean because the breather doesn’t get hit with as much oil mist/ condensation like they tend to do mounted low and directly off the engine case. It just minimizes oil dripping off the soaked breather.
 
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