Gen 2 lowering front

[Jgarcia6988]

Hello All

I've attached a couple pictures of my 2014 hayabusa. I purchased rear brocks lowering links with the 3 holes. i haven't installed it yet.

Question I have is

Is the front lowered already ? if not best way to lower it.. I was told half of inch front and 2 inches on the back (2nd hole I believe on brocks lowering links)

also is there anything else needed to be done after lowering front and rear?

Is it something i can do or should i have a professional do it?

thank you in advance

 

[Bumblebee]

The way I see people lowering the front of a Busa is to buy the top plate so you can slide the fork sliders up into them.

 

[Notenoughtoys]

Just completed this mod on my Gen 2. I used a Trickbitz 3/4” aluminum spaced and installed it under the factory top clamp. Loosened the front fork retention bolts and then slid the forks up (3/4” in my case). Yes the bolt heads were somewhat difficult to get to
My bike was used and luckily already came with Helibars on it so I was able to rotate them slightly further back. This improved fairing clearance as things were getting pretty tight now with the stock hydraulic reservoirs.
I first looked into the route of the new aluminum top clamp - but in order to pass the fork tubes directly through it it looks like the manufacturer is forced to shift the handlebar location further forward. Would work perfectly fine but in my case the reach to the stock bar position seems pretty “out there” to begin with.

 

[Jgarcia6988]

I have helibars on mines also

 

[Notenoughtoys]

Here’s a pic. Too much snow out right now so I am hoping for an early spring up here so I can try it out ! Don’t forget to modify your kickstand to suit the new height - easier to cut and reweld rather than buying a universal one....

 

[HayaWakened]

@Jgarcia6988
The following pics illustrate what @Notenoughtoys is referring to regarding clearance issues when the bike is lowered using the top plate. My 14 came like this. A wheel lock would actually engage and depress the brake lever against the inner nose fairing. I lived with it like that until the brake caught hold during a parking lot u-turn and I dropped the bike. One solution is a new set of bars and a relocated aftermarket reservoir. My solution was notching out that part of the fairing where the lever contacted. The reservoir still rubs up against the nose fairing, as you can see from the pics.

The top plate:

And finally, for reference, here's how the bike sits, lowered ...

Hope this helps

 

[Jgarcia6988]

@Jgarcia6988
The following pics illustrate what @Notenoughtoys is referring to regarding clearance issues when the bike is lowered using the top plate. My 14 came like this. A wheel lock would actually engage and depress the brake lever against the inner nose fairing. I lived with it like that until the brake caught hold during a parking lot u-turn and I dropped the bike. One solution is a new set of bars and a relocated aftermarket reservoir. My solution was notching out that part of the fairing where the lever contacted. The reservoir still rubs up against the nose fairing, as you can see from the pics.
View attachment 1611857
View attachment 1611858
View attachment 1611859

The top plate:
View attachment 1611860

View attachment 1611861
View attachment 1611862
View attachment 1611863
View attachment 1611864View attachment 1611865

And finally, for reference, here's how the bike sits, lowered ...
View attachment 1611866
View attachment 1611867
View attachment 1611868
View attachment 1611869

Hope this helps

So your saying that if I use triple tree and and drop the back this is going to happen to me ?

 

[HayaWakened]

So your saying that if I use triple tree and and drop the back this is going to happen to me ?

I didn't do this install, so I don't have the expertise to answer that. Bought the bike with this flaw, but that might just mean whoever did the install was a knucklehead. The post of notenoughtoys above (and comments made to me from others not on this forum) however, suggests to me clearance does need to be taken into consideration when lowering the front ends of these bikes via the trip plate.

I'll bet you a quart of oil there is someone on this forum who will have that answer, though.

 

[Mr Brown]

So your saying that if I use triple tree and and drop the back this is going to happen to me ?

Not that it's going to happen, just that it can. And if it does, you'll drop the bike.
You can lower the rear all you want, it won't affect the brake lever. When you drop the front make sure you modify things to clear, from lock to lock.

 

[Mathewrussell52]

So your saying that if I use triple tree and and drop the back this is going to happen to me ?

Lowering the front it does not change the bars. Different top clamps can move the bars. Mine is a gen 2 and I have a roaring toys triple and even when I ran heli bars it did not rub at all.

 

[Berlin Germany]

lowering the front - 15 mm (~1/2 inch) - is as easy as can be - see the pic how i did at a 2008 busa.
the only new pieces you need are the four 15 mm distances and four new 10mm allen bolts 15 mm longer than origin + four new 10mm self-locking nuts (40 Nm).

more than 15 mm i won´t recommend, perhaps 20 mm - more, i guess will "lead" to the scratches in the cockpit inside cockpit´s inner cover.
the distance of yoke-cover to cockpit gets smaller and smaller the higher you choose the distances.

lowering rear

sorry that i ask - why that?
legs not long enough?
ok .
but never make a bike lower in the rear than in the front.
the max rear lowering should lead to a horizontal alignment - never more .

otherwise you get a "chopper"-fork-like change wich makes your bike much more "stiff" steering - absolutely unfunny on country roads.

if you have a good table - drillingmaschine
get a flat alu recommended EN AW 6060, 7mm thick, 30 mm wide
drill two holes with a diameter of 12 mm in there and the lowering / raising is done

the "transmission ratio" of the swing arm is 1: 3 for all busa (gen1 = gen2)

rear lowering 30 mm = distance of holes plus (+) 10 mm
==> orig. length = 105 mm now 115 mm

rear raising 30 mm = distance of holes minus (-) 10 mm
==> orig. length = 105 mm now 95 mm
(this helps to increase the agility of the busa)

the two bolts #10 and #15 get 78 Nm (gen1 = gen2)

edit / hint :

if you make the rods yourself "at home",
drill both rods at the same time to ensure that the holes are exactly the same distance apart

2nd edit :
with rods i mean the part #13 in the fiche below

3rd edit :

if you lower front 15 mm AND rise tail 30 mm,
the busa leans a bit more to the left when on sidestand

but do not fear - this is no prob at all.

 

[Jgarcia6988]

lowering the front - 15 mm (~1/2 inch) - is as easy as can be - see the pic how i did at a 2008 busa.
the only new pieces you need are the four 15 mm distances and four new 10mm allen bolts 15 mm longer than origin + four new 10mm self-locking nuts (40 Nm).
View attachment 1611872
more than 15 mm i won´t recommend, perhaps 20 mm - more, i guess will "lead" to the scratches in the cockpit inside cockpit´s inner cover.
the distance of yoke-cover to cockpit gets smaller and smaller the higher you choose the distances.

lowering rear

sorry that i ask - why that
legs not long enough?
ok .
but never make a bike lower in the rear than in the front.
the max rear lowering should lead to a horizontal alignment - never more .

otherwise you get a "chopper"-fork-like change wich makes your bike much more "stiff" steering - absolutely unfunny on country roads.

if you have a good table - drillingmaschine
get a flat alu recommended EN AW 6060, 7mm thick, 30 mm wide
drill two holes with a diameter of 12 mm in there and the lowering / raising is done

the "transmission ratio" of the swing arm is 1: 3 for all busa (gen1 = gen2)

rear lowering 30 mm = distance of holes plus (+) 10 mm
==> orig. length = 105 mm now 115 mm

rear raising 30 mm = distance of holes minus (-) 10 mm
==> orig. length = 105 mm now 95 mm
(this helps to increase the agility of the busa)

the two bolts #10 and #15 get 78 Nm (gen1 = gen2)

edit / hint :

if you make the rods yourself "at home",
drill both rods at the same time to ensure that the holes are exactly the same distance apart

2nd edit :
with rods i mean the part #13 in the fiche below

3rd edit :

if you lower front 15 mm AND rise tail 30 mm,
the busa leans a bit more to the left when on sidestand

but do not fear - this is no prob at all.

I like the rear being dropped looks cool .My feet touch the ground but one foot can be completely down and the other would be tippy toe. So maybe a little bit.I have the 3 hole brocks lowering links I think each hole is one inch. People are saying half inch front and two inchea on the back. Would it’s not lead to a horizontal alignment ?

I don’t know too much about MM