Gen 2 How To Remove Fuel Tank

[Mythos]

Fuel Tank Removal

The Fuel Tank is removed in order to perform a number of procedures including air filter element inspection.

It is not essential to remove the battery but it is always safer to avoid the possibility of causing an electrical spark which could ignite spilt fuel or fuel vapors. Removing the battery negative lead is sometimes suggested as a means of disabling the battery without removing it completely. Actually this is more dangerous that just leaving the battery in and the bike with both negative and positive poles connected to their respective leads. A loose negative cable can easily get bumped or arch to a ground on the frame causing a spark. If the negative cable is removed, the lead should then be wrapped in electrical tape to prevent accidental contact in the presence of gasoline.

The flow of fuel from the fuel pump is high pressure and could easily cause a line to blow off and cause a serious fire hazard if the line is not properly connected. Always double check that the fuel feed hose coupling is securely attached to the fuel delivery pipe on the fuel pump. You must feel the catch click. Pull on the connection three or more times to be sure the coupling is locked.

Having the gas tank completely empty isn’t necessary but the fuel gauge should be on E or not much more so that the tank is light enough to handle without added risk of dropping the tank.

Tools:
6mm hex tool
4mm hex tool
rag
string








Removal
Empty as much fuel from the fuel tank as possible. It is safest to remove the battery when working around gasoline drips and fumes. Remove the two bolts that fasten the pilot seat with a 6mm hex tool.

1. Use a 4mm hex tool to remove the two screws and washers at the front of the fuel tank.

2. Remove the hump and take the fuel tank prop stay out of the storage compartment. Insert the prop stay into the steering stem and the other through one of the screw holes at the front of the fuel tank.

3. Disconnect the fuel pump leads.

4. Place a rag under the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel feed hose from the small pipe on the fuel pump. A small amount of fuel may drip out.

The fuel feed hose is disconnected by squeezing the white tabs and pulling the black connector off of the pipe.

5. Tie the tank to an overhead structure with string so the the tank is lifted to its full height.

6. Push the surge hose and drain hose off of the nipples at he lower right bottom corner of the fuel tank. A small amount of fuel may drip out.

7. Rest the tank back in its lowest position. Use a 4mm hex tool to remove the 4 fuel tank bracket bolts from the back of the fuel tank.

You may wrap the fuel pipe and nipples on the fuel tank with plastic secured with a rubber band. This will stop any drips if the tank will be stored off of the bike for some time.

Installation
8. Place the fuel tank on its frame mounts. Use a 4mm hex tool to tighten the four fuel tank bracket bolts.

9. Tie the tank in its highest position. Connect the surge hose and drain hose.

10. Support the tank with the prop stay. Line up the tabs of the white plastic collar on the fuel delivery pipe with the mating slots in the coupler on the fuel feed hose. Press the collar and coupler together until you hear a click. BE CERTAN THAT THE FUEL FEED HOSE IS SECURELY CONNECTED BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE!

Connect the fuel pump wire leads. Remove the rag fro under the fuel feed hose coupler.

11. Lower the fuel tank. Use a 4mm hex tool to tighten the two bolts at the front of the tank just snug enough to compress the rubber pads.

 

[GIXERHP]

There is no need to remove the tank!

 

[GIXERHP]

Even if your removing the motor

 

[Busa1166]

As posted above I never remove the tank to swap airfilters but a nice walk through for those that need to remove it for something else like painting

 

[dadofthree]

Nice job

 

[ResidentEvil]

Good info

 

[Mythos]

I do these tutorial write ups all the time ....so I can remember how to put stuff back together! LOL I have written about twenty ZX-14 tutorials over the past 3 years. I'm barely a newb wrencher myself and I don't try to write the tutorials to any higher level.

"There is no need to remove the tank!"

I tend to be a BIT of a perfectionist and I guess I am influenced by my ZX-14 past. However,...

Recently installed a Bazzaz and as a newb, I can say it is def worth taking out the extra 4 bolts and disconnecting the lines and wire lead to get at those 8 injectors down in there. Removed PAIR and installed block off plates at the same time. It was very nice to have the tank out of the way. If I had the expertise to do this stuff fast, I would surely just tie the tank aloft as shown in the pic above and get in there and feel my way around.

 

[Mythos]

I suppose you guys are right....simply elevating the fuel tank on the hinge bracket should be sufficient to remove the airbox cover and check your air filter. My opening statement in the tutorial really should be edited. Unfortunately, I am not able to do that any more. Edit times up after a few hours on this site.

Thanks to all for input. If any other info seems to need addressing, I always appreciate people proofreading. If I write a big enough blunder, I will contact the site admin to ask to edit or remove /repost.....since I would like to write several more of these things in the near future.

Thanks,

Daron

 

[Skydyvyr]

Great write-up with great pics!

Just a quick correction for you:

Fuel Tank Removal
Removing the battery negative lead is sometimes suggested as a means of disabling the battery without removing it completely. Actually this is more dangerous that just leaving the battery in and the bike with both negative and positive poles connected to their respective leads.

While technically accurate, the increased risk of removing the negative lead is nominal at worst.

Fuel Tank RemovalA loose negative cable can easily get bumped or arch to a ground on the frame causing a spark.

This is only true if you disconnect the negative lead from the frame at the ground points as well as any other ground connections rather than disconnecting the ground cable from the battery (all ground cables if you have other accessories connected directly to the battery). Once disconnected from the battery, the only place it can arc to is the negative terminal of the battery. Simply tucking the negative lead out of the way where it isn't likely to be bumped is sufficient to prevent sparks. It doesn't matter if it contacts any part of the bike or even the positive terminal of the battery (so long as there is no connection whatsoever to the negative terminal of the battery).

Fuel Tank RemovalIt If the negative cable is removed, the lead should then be wrapped in electrical tape to prevent accidental contact in the presence of gasoline.

You can certainly do this out of an abundance of caution if you are concerned.

--Sky

 

[Mythos]

Thanks for interesting info on battery safety, Sky. Have seen a couple small archs from cable to ground on frame when reconnecting my battery on my ZX-14.

To be honest, I did all my recent work with fuel tank removed and battery left hooked up as usual. I'm still here! lol Guess I was just not as anal as I usually am.

You can certainly do this out of an abundance of caution if you are concerned.

Did I mention I am a bit of a perfectionist?

 

[Skydyvyr]

Thanks for interesting info on battery safety, Sky. Have seen a couple small archs from cable to ground on frame when reconnecting my battery on my ZX-14.:

That is not uncommon, but you would have seen them between the negative terminal on the battery and the negative cable end as you are connecting it to the battery. If you are seen an arc between a disconnected between a negative cable end that is not connected to the battery and the frame of the bike, you need to get an exorcist 'cuz your bike is haunted.

Here is a diagram to illustrate my point:



--Sky

 

[Mythos]

Oh sure...I meant I was reconnecting the ground wire from the battery - terminal to the frame. The cable is connected to the battery of course (no ghosts in this machine). Often see small sparks when I do that. ...which is why I consider a disconnected battery a bit more risky than a properly connected one. ...so I leave the bat connected or I have taped the cable on a few occassions just to be as perfectly zealous about safety as I possibly can anally be.