Gen 2 chain and sprockets

[Andy GSX1340]

I've had my Gen 2 sine new, its a K8 (2008 model) I use it for the occasional bit of commuting, the Sunday blast and a couple of recent European tours, the bikes done 26000 miles and I am still on the original chain and sprockets.
I regularly clean and wax the chain and it does not look worn, I can pull the chain off the back sprocket by a couple of mm, and the sprocket does not look too worn and the teeth still look OK.
do I change based on the age ? if so any recommendations ? I've looked and there are so many different chain and sprocket combinations. thanks for any help.

 

[BlueBacon]

IMO: if you are maintaining it well and it looks good, don't change it unless you have to. $150+ buys a lot of gas+ice cream

 

[HayaWakened]

@Andy GSX1340
@BlueBacon is correct - gas & ice cream. But what's $150 for a brand new drivetrain these days?
And if you do replace, maybe play with the gearing - one of the cheapest ways to dramatically alter acceleration or top end mph.

 

[Andy GSX1340]

I could have both, petrol/ice cream and a new chain , just wanted to know if I should be changing because of the age. the bike has a power commander and putting out 187bhp, occasionally scares the .... out of me, so standard sprockets will be enough.

 

[Bumblebee]

I see this is your first post...welcome to the forum..

As for your chain and sprockets, the manual tells you how to check for wear, if it is within spec, you are GTG regardless of kms...

 

[HayaWakened]

...occasionally scares the .... out of me, so standard sprockets will be enough.

Oh sure, you say that now...
May the (g) force be with you, padawan

 

[Mythos]

Andy.

I can pull the chain off the back sprocket by a couple of mm, and the sprocket does not look too worn and the teeth still look OK.

The rear sprocket is one thing but the front is quite another. The front will wear a lot more because it turns twice as many times. Check the chain wear by measuring between 21 pins. The illustration in the manual is numbered wrong, it is drawn acurately however if you count the pins in the drawing. The text is also correct, 21 pins. Measure in three different areas. My 08 was just abouyt at the service limit at 12,000 miles. Now at 16,000, I'm changing the stock chain and both stock sprockets. If you are changing chain, front sprocket or rear might as well change all three unless any are in very new condition. It's best that they wear in together and run a while before you need to change any of the again.

The best chain is going to be an EK ZVX3 530 pitch. You won't get too many that disagree with that no matter what kind of riding they do.

The best sprockets depends on what you like. The OEM probably has a rubber vibration damper. I don't think those dampers do much. You can't go wrong with OEM but it's expensive and not very interesting plus they're heavy. I go with just about any aftermarket steel 530 pitch front sprocket. Whatever is lightest. So far, Vortex is the lightest one I've used. For the rear, Aluminum is a lot lighter than steel. You will go through about two aluminum rear sprockets for every steel front and the chain is about ready to change at that point too. Vortex again is the lightest 530 pitch aluminum rear sprocket I've used so far but all aluminum rears are close in weight.

Do you want to stick with stock sprocket gearing? If so, count the pins on your stock chain and buy an EK ZVX3 that has at least that many pins. I believe a 120 pins will cover your needs for stock gearing. You will need to remove the sprockets and replace with new ones. You then break the old chain to remove it and break the new chain to get it to the correct length. You will need to rivet the new chain. You need a chain tool. I don't really highly recommend the EK chain tool. It has worked well for me but make sure you lube the threads or they will gaul. Mine still works but might be ready for the trash after using it to replace the third chain which I will be doing very soon. I would probably get the DID chain tool if I need a new chain tool.

Have you ever changed a chain yourself? It's not something to take lightly. I did it with very little wrenching experience but I'm super careful and never in a hurry. I wouldn't let a shop do it unless I knew the mechanic. Unless you're a hamfist, your better off doing it yourself or letting a guy you have 100% trust in do it for you. It's pretty heavy work pressing the pins through...not the heaviest torque I've had to apply but given the short handled tools, it's quite a bit of strain. The chain tools I've mentioned are just about fool proof as far as riveting the chain, you almost can't over-squash the rivets but as mentioned, I'm super careful and I measure the diameter of the rivet many times as I'm pressing it. Seemed like the EK tool stopped pressing exactly where it should to mushroom the head to the right diameter and I'm sure the DID tool does also. If you're iterested, I can post some links to threads about chains and chain tools, I would just have to dig through my bookmarks.

 

[BlueBacon]

Have you ever changed a chain yourself? It's not something to take lightly.

If you don't already have your own set, do not skimp and buy a cheap kit. I have bent 3 riveting pins from cheapo kits

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Andy GSX1340
and @ all

the chain manufacturers - ALL - say that a chain is worn
if it is lengthened over 0.5%
no matter what chain it is
drive chain or camshaft chain

lill help at drive chain how to estimate its elongation :
if you can horizontally pull the chain away from rear sprocket more than 2 mm
it is quite near to its end of days,
what then means that the entire chain set has to be replaced in the next, i guess, 2000 mi.

and how to estimate the camshaft chain elongation by the tensioner
you can read here at my homepage

@Andy GSX1340
if you have no experience with chain replacement
ask somebody good experienced to show you and do it for you
1. the entire left side of the busa has to be, roughly said, ripped off - fairing, water can, sprocket cover + the rear wheel out
2. depending on the kind of chain lock
- the lock can be a so called hollow or massive rivet - (the hollow one has a lill drill at its top end)
there are two more or less totally different tools to wrench/squeeze them - if you don´t own the special tool for YOUR lock you´ll fail .

also recommended - alone for all torques you need the gen2 manual

and if you give your bike for the job to a not-suzuki-workshop, they have to have the gen2 manual available as well

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

I've had my Gen 2 sine new, its a K8 (2008 model) I use it for the occasional bit of commuting, the Sunday blast and a couple of recent European tours, the bikes done 26000 miles and I am still on the original chain and sprockets.
I regularly clean and wax the chain and it does not look worn, I can pull the chain off the back sprocket by a couple of mm, and the sprocket does not look too worn and the teeth still look OK.
do I change based on the age ? if so any recommendations ? I've looked and there are so many different chain and sprocket combinations. thanks for any help.View attachment 1633083

Any name brand, EK, RK, D.I.D. rivet link chain with at least 10,000 pounds of tensile strength will do nicely. At 26,000 miles I’d also switch out the sprockets.

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Andy GSX1340

at a mileage of ~ 26k (in 13 years of ownership = 2 k per year) the chain i guess is worn and a new one is necessary
spend the money for a new set.
and when replacing the chain watch the rubber protector at the swing arm if it was in good condition.
if not it has to be replaced too,
but that means to pull the swing arm what needs a lot of time.
but if the "pull" is necessary by the rubber piece,
grease at that action all the needle bearings new as there are: swing arm´s head, shock arm, rockers

see what view i had when i pulled out my swing arm at that, your, mileage - pure horror!

 

[Andy GSX1340]

thanks for all the replies, time to get my tools out I think.

 

[E Zurcher]

26k is nothing on a chain especially if you maintain it like you said. Like others have said, check the front sprocket, if it is worn, then replace all. Unless you are really hard on your driveline, you should be able to get another 10k at least. When it is time, Pashnit sells supersprox kits that are excellent.

 

[Berlin Germany]

26k is nothing on a chain especially if you maintain it like you said. Like others have said, check the front sprocket, if it is worn, then replace all. Unless you are really hard on your driveline, you should be able to get another 10k at least. (...)

sorry in advance for my following harsh words,

but such an analysis from a distance is nonsense.

the same applies in this context to the possible mileage that can still be expected in the future.

chain wear can be determined directly on the affected bike (and its chain) alone.

@Andy GSX1340
again
if you can lift the chain horizontally backwards more than 2 mm from the sprocket, the chain set is simply at its end and must be replaced.

 

[Bumblebee]

sorry in advance for my following harsh words,

but such an analysis from a distance is nonsense.

the same applies in this context to the possible mileage that can still be expected in the future.

chain wear can be determined directly on the affected bike (and its chain) alone.

@Andy GSX1340
again
if you can lift the chain horizontally backwards more than 2 mm from the sprocket, the chain set is simply at its end and must be replaced.

This is why most of us here advised the OP to go to the manual to check the chain and sprockets.

 

[Mythos]

Measure the chain wear accross 21 pins.

 

[Mythos]

Look at the sprocket. Thin teeth, hooked like a saw blade? The front wears a lot more than the rear. My front hooks slightly and the space between teeth on rear seems to just get wider without hooking. Unless the front sprocket is in good enough condition to last the life of a new rear sprocket, you might as well change both. Unless the chain is in good enough condition to last the life of both sprockets, you might as well change the chain. A chain lasts as long as a steel sprocket for me. I use up two aluminum sprockets for every chain. Then I change all three again. It must be about 25,000 miles for a good chain. My EK was at the service limit after two aluminum rear sprockets and one steel front. Check the distance across 21 pins when the chain is newly installed so you have a baseline, I assume the specced chain wear duty life is the same for any chain.

Check your cush drive rubbers while you're at it. Is the sprocket carrier loose and floppy? Grab the sprocket and pull forward and back. It should n't move. Don't lift the wheel by the sprocket when you take the wheel off, the spocket carrier might fall right out. I found that out. Replace cush drive dampers. I ordered Sensei dampers from Powerhouse.

 

[E Zurcher]

I hang my head in shame

 

[Ronan]

I had chains which held more than 40mkm. My last chain broke at 24mkm while accelerating strongly at the exit of a bend. It's difficult to control everything. I will change the next one at 20mkm as a preventive measure. Safety. Spent a new one

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

I had chains which held more than 40mkm. My last chain broke at 24mkm while accelerating strongly at the exit of a bend. It's difficult to control everything. I will change the next one at 20mkm as a preventive measure. Safety. Spent a new one

What‘s “mkm”?