Gen 1 fuel system rebuild

13B-RX3

Registered
Recently picked up my first Hayabusa. One of the first things I noticed was what I thought to be a little rust in the fuel tank. I was planning on addressing this winter, when I painted the tank, but after riding her for a few days it was obvious that she wanted attention now. This is licorice, she will be the patient. 2005 with 2500 miles.

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Starting, with the fuel tank, after removing the pump I found way more rust and varnish then was evident from looking into the filter cap. Here was the condition to begin with.

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First thing I did was fill the tank with E85 and let it sit in the sun for about 2 days. I needed to remove as much varnish as possible. The hydrochloric acid I would use later doesn't touch the varnish, nor does the E85 remove rust. After 2 days with the E85, this is what I was left with.

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Most of the varnish turned loose, but just to be sure, I sloshed around a gallon of MEK for about an hour. This was the result.

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With all the vanish gone, it was time to bring out the big guns. This part gets a bit dangerous and if you choose to go this route, you do so at your own risk. Hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) is nothing to toy with! It generates some nasty vapors as well, so make sure you vent the tank often as to not build up too much pressure. Make sure you have a gallon of water and baking soda handy to neutralize any spills or if you get any on you. Have everything you need ready because after you add the acid, the clock starts ticking. Definitely use all the proper PPE please. After I added the acid (1 gallon), I would gently roll the tank around for 1 minute, then vent the tank. I repeated this for 10 min. It works very fast so don't overdue it. After I was happy with the results, I neutralize the acid in the tank with baking soda. Slowly add until there is no fizzing when you add more. I drained the acid to be properly disposed of and filled the tank with water and baking soda 4 times to make sure it was fully neutralize. I'm total I used 14lb of baking soda. This was the result.

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The tank can't be left in this condition because it will quickly rust if left untreated. I blew the tank dry and immediately added a quart of Ospho. Slosh it around in the tank for 30 min, soak up the excess, she let it dry for at least 24 hours. After it has fully dried.

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When dry it's leaves a bit of a white, chalky residue. Put a couple quarts of gas in the tank, slosh it around, and dump it out. That will take care of the loose residue. Here is the final result.

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I topped the tank off with a new cap and she was ready to go back into service.

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Next I will go over the fuel pump/filter.
 
Recently picked up my first Hayabusa. One of the first things I noticed was what I thought to be a little rust in the fuel tank. I was planning on addressing this winter, when I painted the tank, but after riding her for a few days it was obvious that she wanted attention now. This is licorice, she will be the patient. 2005 with 2500 miles.

View attachment 1656028

Starting, with the fuel tank, after removing the pump I found way more rust and varnish then was evident from looking into the filter cap. Here was the condition to begin with.

View attachment 1656029

View attachment 1656030

View attachment 1656031

First thing I did was fill the tank with E85 and let it sit in the sun for about 2 days. I needed to remove as much varnish as possible. The hydrochloric acid I would use later doesn't touch the varnish, nor does the E85 remove rust. After 2 days with the E85, this is what I was left with.

View attachment 1656032

Most of the varnish turned loose, but just to be sure, I sloshed around a gallon of MEK for about an hour. This was the result.

View attachment 1656033

View attachment 1656034

With all the vanish gone, it was time to bring out the big guns. This part gets a bit dangerous and if you choose to go this route, you do so at your own risk. Hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) is nothing to toy with! It generates some nasty vapors as well, so make sure you vent the tank often as to not build up too much pressure. Make sure you have a gallon of water and baking soda handy to neutralize any spills or if you get any on you. Have everything you need ready because after you add the acid, the clock starts ticking. Definitely use all the proper PPE please. After I added the acid (1 gallon), I would gently roll the tank around for 1 minute, then vent the tank. I repeated this for 10 min. It works very fast so don't overdue it. After I was happy with the results, I neutralize the acid in the tank with baking soda. Slowly add until there is no fizzing when you add more. I drained the acid to be properly disposed of and filled the tank with water and baking soda 4 times to make sure it was fully neutralize. I'm total I used 14lb of baking soda. This was the result.

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The tank can't be left in this condition because it will quickly rust if left untreated. I blew the tank dry and immediately added a quart of Ospho. Slosh it around in the tank for 30 min, soak up the excess, she let it dry for at least 24 hours. After it has fully dried.

View attachment 1656038

When dry it's leaves a bit of a white, chalky residue. Put a couple quarts of gas in the tank, slosh it around, and dump it out. That will take care of the loose residue. Here is the final result.

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I topped the tank off with a new cap and she was ready to go back into service.

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Next I will go over the fuel pump/filter.
Wow, fine job there, it looks like a new one already....

How did you dispose of those nasty chemicals? That acid sounds like a chore to get rid of.
 
Time to tackle the pump/filter. As you could guess from the tank, the pump assembly was in bad shape as well.

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The sump was cleaned along with the tank and it turned out well.

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I was planning on adding an external filter but didn't like the idea of bypassing the original filter and leaving it in place. I wanted to completely remove the original filter. Here's how I did it. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the filter housing and picked out the old filter paper. There is a metal base that holds the bottom of the filter, you need to drill through it as well.

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I stepped up the hole to the drill size for a 1/4" NPT tap. Be careful at this point, the drill really wants to grab. You can see where I chipped out a small piece when the drill bit pulled itself in.

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At this point the filter paper can be removed surprisingly easy.

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At this point a normal person would plug the hole and be done with it. Well, that's not me. I decided that I didn't like the metal filter backer still being in there, so I pulled it through the hole too. This was no easy task, and if you choose to do so, I would recommend drilling the hole one size smaller, then taking it to final size after the metal is removed. It will damage the hole slightly.

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Here is a view of the inside of the filter, after all the guts have been removed.

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Finally I tapped the hole 1/4" NPT. I mixed up some JB weld and squirted about 5cc into the filter, through the hole, coated the treads of the pipe plug, and screwed it in. I slung the filter around, like when your trying to get the last drop out of the shampoo bottle, in hopes of really sealing the floor of the filter housing to the plug. After sitting for about 6 hours, I put a little bead of JB weld on the outside for added insurance.

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The rest of the assembly was cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner, using denatured alcohol. I opted for the Bosch 69420 pump and finished the assembly.

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Next episode, external filter.
 
On to the external filter. As y'all have probably figured out, I like to do things the difficult way. The external filter is no different. I don't care for rubber hose and hose clamps on high pressure application, so I opted to stick with the quick disconnects. This part is pretty self explanatory, except for the hell I had to go through to find the exact right filter.

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Recently picked up my first Hayabusa. One of the first things I noticed was what I thought to be a little rust in the fuel tank. I was planning on addressing this winter, when I painted the tank, but after riding her for a few days it was obvious that she wanted attention now. This is licorice, she will be the patient. 2005 with 2500 miles.

View attachment 1656028

Starting, with the fuel tank, after removing the pump I found way more rust and varnish then was evident from looking into the filter cap. Here was the condition to begin with.

View attachment 1656029

View attachment 1656030

View attachment 1656031

First thing I did was fill the tank with E85 and let it sit in the sun for about 2 days. I needed to remove as much varnish as possible. The hydrochloric acid I would use later doesn't touch the varnish, nor does the E85 remove rust. After 2 days with the E85, this is what I was left with.

View attachment 1656032

Most of the varnish turned loose, but just to be sure, I sloshed around a gallon of MEK for about an hour. This was the result.

View attachment 1656033

View attachment 1656034

With all the vanish gone, it was time to bring out the big guns. This part gets a bit dangerous and if you choose to go this route, you do so at your own risk. Hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) is nothing to toy with! It generates some nasty vapors as well, so make sure you vent the tank often as to not build up too much pressure. Make sure you have a gallon of water and baking soda handy to neutralize any spills or if you get any on you. Have everything you need ready because after you add the acid, the clock starts ticking. Definitely use all the proper PPE please. After I added the acid (1 gallon), I would gently roll the tank around for 1 minute, then vent the tank. I repeated this for 10 min. It works very fast so don't overdue it. After I was happy with the results, I neutralize the acid in the tank with baking soda. Slowly add until there is no fizzing when you add more. I drained the acid to be properly disposed of and filled the tank with water and baking soda 4 times to make sure it was fully neutralize. I'm total I used 14lb of baking soda. This was the result.

View attachment 1656035

View attachment 1656036

View attachment 1656037

The tank can't be left in this condition because it will quickly rust if left untreated. I blew the tank dry and immediately added a quart of Ospho. Slosh it around in the tank for 30 min, soak up the excess, she let it dry for at least 24 hours. After it has fully dried.

View attachment 1656038

When dry it's leaves a bit of a white, chalky residue. Put a couple quarts of gas in the tank, slosh it around, and dump it out. That will take care of the loose residue. Here is the final result.

View attachment 1656039

View attachment 1656040

I topped the tank off with a new cap and she was ready to go back into service.

View attachment 1656041

Next I will go over the fuel pump/filter.
Recently picked up my first Hayabusa. One of the first things I noticed was what I thought to be a little rust in the fuel tank. I was planning on addressing this winter, when I painted the tank, but after riding her for a few days it was obvious that she wanted attention now. This is licorice, she will be the patient. 2005 with 2500 miles.

View attachment 1656028

Starting, with the fuel tank, after removing the pump I found way more rust and varnish then was evident from looking into the filter cap. Here was the condition to begin with.

View attachment 1656029

View attachment 1656030

View attachment 1656031

First thing I did was fill the tank with E85 and let it sit in the sun for about 2 days. I needed to remove as much varnish as possible. The hydrochloric acid I would use later doesn't touch the varnish, nor does the E85 remove rust. After 2 days with the E85, this is what I was left with.

View attachment 1656032

Most of the varnish turned loose, but just to be sure, I sloshed around a gallon of MEK for about an hour. This was the result.

View attachment 1656033

View attachment 1656034

With all the vanish gone, it was time to bring out the big guns. This part gets a bit dangerous and if you choose to go this route, you do so at your own risk. Hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) is nothing to toy with! It generates some nasty vapors as well, so make sure you vent the tank often as to not build up too much pressure. Make sure you have a gallon of water and baking soda handy to neutralize any spills or if you get any on you. Have everything you need ready because after you add the acid, the clock starts ticking. Definitely use all the proper PPE please. After I added the acid (1 gallon), I would gently roll the tank around for 1 minute, then vent the tank. I repeated this for 10 min. It works very fast so don't overdue it. After I was happy with the results, I neutralize the acid in the tank with baking soda. Slowly add until there is no fizzing when you add more. I drained the acid to be properly disposed of and filled the tank with water and baking soda 4 times to make sure it was fully neutralize. I'm total I used 14lb of baking soda. This was the result.

View attachment 1656035

View attachment 1656036

View attachment 1656037

The tank can't be left in this condition because it will quickly rust if left untreated. I blew the tank dry and immediately added a quart of Ospho. Slosh it around in the tank for 30 min, soak up the excess, she let it dry for at least 24 hours. After it has fully dried.

View attachment 1656038

When dry it's leaves a bit of a white, chalky residue. Put a couple quarts of gas in the tank, slosh it around, and dump it out. That will take care of the loose residue. Here is the final result.

View attachment 1656039

View attachment 1656040

I topped the tank off with a new cap and she was ready to go back into service.

View attachment 1656041

Next I will go over the fuel pump/filter.
Great job. I just went through this last week on my 2000 Hayabusa. My tank wasn’t as bad as yours, but bad enough to cause issues. I used four gallons of the product pictured. This product is reusable and did a great job. I flushed and refilled the tank three times over three days. I flushed the tank with plenty of water, then dried it using a heated blower. After filtering the fluid, it removed about a half cup of rust. I’m waiting on a new filter and O-rings for the fuel pump.

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Finally, the injectors and rails got a good cleaning in the ultrasonic cleaner. Pulsed each injector for a total of 1 hour in the cleaner, 30 min in E85, 30 min in denatured alcohol. Then flushed/back flushed with an air conditioning flush gun, filled with denatured alcohol. Topped everything off with new seals, orings, and screens.

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Finally, the injectors and rails got a good cleaning in the ultrasonic cleaner. Pulsed each injector for a total of 1 hour in the cleaner, 30 min in E85, 30 min in denatured alcohol. Then flushed/back flushed with an air conditioning flush gun, filled with denatured alcohol. Topped everything off with new seals, orings, and screens.

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Thanks for all this info, it’s very helpful. I’m doing the same thing on my 2000s fuel system. With the throttle bodies removed I also checked the valve clearance. Thanks again.
 
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