Gen 1 CCT replacement

BlueBacon

BlueBacon

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This has been going on a while, but it is getting more noticeable at startup and I don't like it! Loud "ticking/clicking" sound in upper right side of engine, directly below the airbox. You can physically feel the clicking by pushing your finger on little...wheel? for the throttle cable and idle adjustment.
Pretty sure the cam chain tensioner is a good place to start since I don't want to open the valve cover if I don't have to :p

I found two listings for what is supposed to be a "recall" model, but both have different part numbers and no spot for the oil line :crazy: seems sketch that a factory upgrade for a known problem would remove that...
99103-11147
1283X-24F00

I'd prefer not to spend $70+ on a manual tensioner unless I have too...I don't mind upgrading stock parts, but the engine is staying stock.
Any thoughts? NOS SUZUKI 1999-2003 CAM CHAIN TENSIONER HAYABUSA GSXR 1300 PART# 1283X-24F00 | eBay
 
GIXERHP said:
Have dealer run the Vin and see if the recall has ever been done. If not have them do it for free. Or replace with an Ape Race parts one. Not an Ebay
Click to expand...
I highly doubt I would be able to get an 18yr old part installed for free from a dealer, and the closest is 40+miles away.

I'll fudge out the $80 for the APE if I have to, but I'd rather replace it with the factory "upgrade". I can't find any pictures of this recall replacement though so there is nothing for me to compare it with what folks are selling. Even BikeBandit shows the original CCT in the parts diagram.
 
If you want to know what is required to upgrade to the Hydraulic OEM cct, got to any online parts places.
Look up a 2005 Hayabusa
It shows every part, line bolts and fittings to go to a Hydraulic version.
Also i may have everything you need if you are interested in a used one
 
GIXERHP said:
If you want to know what is required to upgrade to the Hydraulic OEM cct, got to any online parts places.
Look up a 2005 Hayabusa
It shows every part, line bolts and fittings to go to a Hydraulic version.
Also i may have everything you need if you are interested in a used one
Click to expand...
Well, that's the issue...there are a lot of posts from back in the day about the Gen1 recall, but no pictures or part numbers that I could find. I only find the same parts diagram for gen1 years on multiple sites so I don't know what the difference is. Mine has an oil line attached to it and looks like this:

2003 Suzuki GSX1300R Cam Chain | Babbitts Suzuki Parts House

Shop online for OEM Cam Chain parts that fit your 2003 Suzuki GSX1300R, search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542
www.suzukipartshouse.com www.suzukipartshouse.com

Part# 1283X-24F00 makes sense to me if "X" is signifying multiple numbers for that area. If you search "1283" on Suzuki Partshouse, it pops up with a ton of cam chain stuff and the last bit "24F00" matches stuff for the Hayabusa. I'm just confused as to why it comes with a bolt for the back if it has a metal tab sticking out of it :confused:
 
That is not the updated hydraulic version. That was the first fix. The stuff with the oil line is an was the last update.
The reason there is a bolt in the end is it covers the tension screw. That is used to
hold it in place when installing it
 
That bike has not had the recall done. Neither has mine. Dude if I were you, I'd not take this on. Too many things can go wrong DIYing it.
 
GIXERHP said:
That is not the updated hydraulic version. That was the first fix. The stuff with the oil line is an was the last update.
The reason there is a bolt in the end is it covers the tension screw. That is used to
hold it in place when installing it
Click to expand...
"is and was"? LOL. So the diagram is the newest version?
TallTom said:
That bike has not had the recall done. Neither has mine. Dude if I were you, I'd not take this on. Too many things can go wrong DIYing it.
Click to expand...
10-4, I'll still call the two closest dealers tomorrow. Just got the fuel mod done and then the state ran out of gas so I figured I could tackle this.
 
@BlueBacon

the heck what year of constr. (y.o.c.) are we talking here about?

generally said :

the 99 and 00 have had a non-oil-pressure-supported cct
recognizable by the non-existent oil connection on the cct and the non-existent oil line around the cyl. block RH
watch around page 3-125 in the very 1st manual (´99)
this first kind of cct had been replaced by the the link below

in 2001 (k1) they changed to the oil-pressure-supported cct - this is used til last gen1 model in 2007

if you already have the oily cct there is no other recall.

read all about the cct at my page here (scroll a bit down to "timing chain")
 
Last edited:
Berlin Germany said:
@BlueBacon

the heck what year of constr. are we talking here about?

generally said :

the 99 and 00 have had a non-oil-pressure-supported cct
recognizable by the non-existent oil connection on the cct and the non-existent oil line around the cyl. block RH
watch page 3-125 in the very 1st manual (´99)
this first kind of cct had been replaced by the the link below

in 2001 (k1) they changed to the oil-pressure-supported cct - this is used til last gen1 model in 2007

if you already have the oily cct there is no other recall.

read all about the cct at my page here (scroll a bit down to "timing chain")
Click to expand...
Well, then I do have the updated version since I have an oil line one mine. What would I need to block off the oil line if I install a manual CCT?
 
@BlueBacon

don´t change that even you could get an old cct - that would be a stupidness at its "best". :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
leave the cct as it is !

sorry i forgot to link my hint above
so here again and corect:

read all (4 themes) about the ´01-´07 cct at my page here (scroll a bit down to "timing chain")

_________________________________________________________________________

and the heck
whenever you ask again tech questions mention the y.o.c. of the affected bike.
sometimes the tech changed in the years and without the y.o.c. an answer could only be a general one - never (100% shure) pointing at your problem!
 
Berlin Germany said:
@BlueBacon

don´t change that even you could get an old cct - that would be a stupidness at its "best". :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
leave the cct as it is !

sorry i forgot to link my hint above
so here again and corect:

read all (4 themes) about the ´01-´07 cct at my page here (scroll a bit down to "timing chain")

_________________________________________________________________________

and the heck
whenever you ask again tech questions mention the y.o.c. of the affected bike.
sometimes the tech changed in the years and without the y.o.c. an answer could only be a general one - never (100% shure) pointing at your problem!
Click to expand...
It's a 2003 and has the same one on your page...which is now saved in my favorites!
Unscrew main bolt and manually extend the tensioner 1 click...easy! However, what is the long term solution? Would it help or hurt to disassemble and clean?
 
@BlueBacon

is the chain now less "rattling" / quiet ?
if yes you got it ;)

cleaning the cct makes no sense - it is always clean.

what is the approximate distance from the stopper, compared to my pictures ?

if the distance between bolt and cct is at or lower than seen in pic/fig. 4 (~ 4.7 mm / ~0.2") youre very! close to have to replace the too much lengthened timing chain by new in the next i guess 2-3000 miles.
remember - the chain lengthens more and more / faster and faster the closer it comes to its end
the cct (when distance is equal or lower than 4.7 mm) only has 2 more clicks ability to work.

worst case :
a no more 100% tensioned chain slacks at and hits the two chain guides.
so whenever you replace the chain have an "eagle eye" on the two guides - if they show deep marks they have to be replaced too
and
that is only possible when you lift the head what is only possible
when the motor is out of the frame.
______________________________________

a very small light at the end of the tunnel - the cct can allways be used again - no need to buy that new too.
 
Berlin Germany said:
@BlueBacon

is the chain now less "rattling" / quiet ?
if yes you got it ;)

cleaning the cct makes no sense - it is always clean.

what is the approximate distance from the stopper, compared to my pictures ?

if the distance between bolt and cct is at or lower than seen in pic/fig. 4 (~ 4.7 mm / ~0.2") youre very! close to have to replace the too much lengthened timing chain by new in the next i guess 2-3000 miles.
remember - the chain lengthens more and more / faster and faster the closer it comes to its end
the cct (when distance is equal or lower than 4.7 mm) only has 2 more clicks ability to work.

worst case :
a no more 100% tensioned chain slacks at and hits the two chain guides.
so whenever you replace the chain have an "eagle eye" on the two guides - if they show deep marks they have to be replaced too
and
that is only possible when you lift the head what is only possible
when the motor is out of the frame.
______________________________________

a very small light at the end of the tunnel - the cct can allways be used again - no need to buy that new too.
Click to expand...
Took out the rear bolt, spring, and rod; tried to push with no luck. I am not sure how much force you are supposed to use, but I used at least 20lbs of force and the allen key never moved.
I stretched the spring out by hand to around 6mm and put it back together. I did not measure the visible distance before stretching the spring, but I can insert an allen key 4.75" (4.44cm) into the CCT.

Still noticeably ticks/clicks during a cold start, but not as bad. I'll leave it alone for now
 
GIXERHP said:
Sound like you may need a Valve adjustment
Click to expand...

controling the adjustment is always a good idea - all 24000 km / 15000 mi

but

at all ohc steered motors (without any other stuuf like rocker arms etc.) like our busa the clearance gets smaller not bigger
and
only a huuuuuge value of clearance, very wide over the maximum (manual), possibly might be hearable,
because then the camshaft cams could! - so to say - "hit" the cups what then might! cause the "ticking".
a clearance at maximum or smaller no one can hear because this can not cause a ticking noise - the cams more or less "slide" over the cups.
 
BlueBacon said:
(...)
I stretched the spring out by hand to around (...)
Click to expand...

man?

that´s , sorry, a pure nonsense.

no spring gets stronger
a. how much ever you stretch it,
or
b. "load" it with a washer between spring and cct´s locking screw (to pre-compress it).

that is physically impossible because the strength of a spring is caused by its material.
and
if you stretch a spring beyond its yield point, it can even become weaker,
what
then makes the cct no longer work correctly, because the spring force has been reduced
what then can not push the cct forward when chain gets again longer !

due to my technical understanding, I would strongly advise you to replace the stretched cct-spring with a new one.
 
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