Fuel indication and F1 code

netJimmyRHRS

Registered
Hi, I'm in need of help. I have 2005 Hayabusa that I have in storage for almost a year. After taking it out of storage, filling up with fresh gas, reinstalling and charging the battery, I have received a weird issue. The bike starts up and runs great. However, when starting the bike, the low fuel light comes on and shortly after it goes out but the needle stays on E and then the F1 code shows. Anybody have any ideas or recommendations? Thanks in advance for any help. Jim
 
There is a diagnostic connector under the left upper fairing, and you need to jump two terminals; I'm at work but it seems the wire colors you jump are black w/white and white w/red. I used a paper clip. When you jump the terminals and turn on the ignition, it will give you a C code. I found this on a GSXR forum:

C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
 
I'm guessing you'll get a C41 as it sounds like a fuel sending unit problem.
 
There is a diagnostic connector under the left upper fairing, and you need to jump two terminals; I'm at work but it seems the wire colors you jump are black w/white and white w/red. I used a paper clip. When you jump the terminals and turn on the ignition, it will give you a C code. I found this on a GSXR forum:

C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
Thanks for the information. I'll give it a shot and see if I get a code when I get home and let you know.
 
fyi
You can ride with the jumper in, just make sure there are no bare spots on the wire or paperclip(electrical tape)you use.
The ecu doesn't store codes, so if the fault comes and goes, it's helpful to be able to see the code on the dash as it happens.

Also, C00 means no codes are present.
 
Okay, I've got every fairing and the fuel tank off and cannot find the connector to jump out for the codes. I've looked high and low and cannot find it. Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks
 
Update. I found it! It was on the left side but it was above the left side of the exhaust under and aft of the aft footpeg.
 
After jumping out the connector with a paperclip and the engine off, I got a C00. Keeping a jumped out and starting the bike, the low fuel light stayed on and then when it went off the FI came on and it faulted C92. What is that and what do I need to do? Thanks for the help!
 
I found in an on-line service manual that it comes up a fuel sending unit failure. Basically says to remove it and inspect it. If nothing is obvious you might need to replace it. You could try cleaning the rheostat on it with carb spray?
 
I found in an on-line service manual that it comes up a fuel sending unit failure. Basically says to remove it and inspect it. If nothing is obvious you might need to replace it. You could try cleaning the rheostat on it with carb spray?
Thanks for the information. Do you or does anyone know how to test it? Thanks.
 
The rheostat on the sender should be two wires. Use an ohmmeter and connect each lead to each wire on the sender. On a 20k ohm scale, the sender should read from near zero at one extreme to about 25 on the other as you move the float arm. I'm using an automotive sender for reference but it should be close on the Busa. Rather than numbers, look for a smooth gradual change in ohms as you move the arm.
 
The rheostat on the sender should be two wires. Use an ohmmeter and connect each lead to each wire on the sender. On a 20k ohm scale, the sender should read from near zero at one extreme to about 25 on the other as you move the float arm. I'm using an automotive sender for reference but it should be close on the Busa. Rather than numbers, look for a smooth gradual change in ohms as you move the arm.
Thanks Red05 for the info.
 
Here's what I found, where the wires attached to the closure plate (pigtail), the stud had corroded apart. Does anyone know what the part number is for the pigtail or how I can repair it without having to buy a whole new assembly? Thanks for any help.
 
Can you post a picture? It's been a long time since I had the tank apart. By closure plate, are you talking about the round cover that holds the pump assembly to the bottom of the tank? I don't see that as a separate piece but it sure seems like you could clean the plate up and resolder the wire?.
 
Red05, Thanks for the reply. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about. Thanks
34810-24FA0.jpg
 
If the plate is not too badly corroded, I'd try to figure out a fix. Trying to find used would probably entail buying the whole pump assembly.
 
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