Fuel filter mod





chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#1
a quick break down. i will do pics and description of two very different methods to this modification. one is easy in my opinion and i wish i had chose that route. the other is more difficult. the first method is the easiest and that is simply drilling a hole in the filter assembly to bypass the filter but it leaves the old clogged up filter in the assembly to flush out and clog up your new inline filter you will be putting in. so that means change the inline after a while to keep making sure gunk not clogging up new filter. 10$ per filter and 5 min of time...not that much of a hassle. the second method is considerably more time consuming and it was difficult to do...but it removed the old filter and reassembled the whole assembly. so no worries of the old stuff back washing into the new inline filter. the third method i thought of after all the work was the possibility of using purple pvc pipe adhesive. but am not positive if it is gas previous. if it adheres and holds up in gas...it would make the second method SOOOO much easier. so here we go with the first method. you will see some duplication of pics reference to the inline filter set up.
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#2
ok the quick and dirty method would cost you no more than about 30$ in parts to do. and very little time and skill to accomplish... again. it does not remove the old filter so back flushing can help and understand the gunk will eventually progress to new inline filter and you may want to switch out the new inline filter after month or so.

first remove your tank...its not too hard...

IMG_0779.jpg
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#3
take the 5 allen head screws holding the pump assembly out and pull out the pump assembly...remember your fuel level float is in there so i found it easier to pull straight up till just about out then tip assembly to the right as the float is to the front of the gas tank. then just pull up and of course repeat when placing back in

pump1.JPG
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#4
next remove the wire leads on the base the order from left to right is black red and large brown lead.

pump2.JPG
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#5
next remove the phillips head screw on side of assembly that holds the bottom plate that attaches to the tank.

pump5.JPG
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#6
now remove the second phillips head screw that is on the opposite side and slightly higher. remember your black lead is attached to this.

pump6.JPG
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#7
now with both of those screws removed you can remove the base plate. the only thing holding the pump assembly to this is that gasket for the outlet side from the filter assembly...little bit of wiggling and gentle pulling apart it will come

pump7.JPG
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#8
set the base plate for the assembly aside... clean the reservoir with some brake clean if needed and wipe it out... and remember there is a large o ring gasket that goes between the tank and that base plate when you put everything back together...mine stayed on the tank. now you will see the "pre-screen" use a small screwdriver to pop the white plastic holder of the black rubber gasket and the pre screen to the bottom of the pump. you can pull out the pre screen fairly easy. i apparently didn't take pics of them separated and individual parts...but its pretty simple. i used brake clean and sprayed the pre screen and cleaned it all out. then set it aside for reassembly

pump8.JPG
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#9
now using the small screwdriver again pop the tabs that hold the pressure regulator off... mental note when re assembling make sure all three tabs are clear and locked well as if it pops off and pressure regulator works its way out...no good... i can also say i have seen people wire tie this back on just in case..but if you get all three tabs locked in you should be ok

pump9.JPG
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#10
at this point you can pull the pump away from the plastic assembly. remember there is a gasket that fits between the outlet of the pump and the filter assembly inlet. its about a 1 inch tall and ribbed...make sure it is pressed back into the filter assembly inlet hold FLUSH or the pump will not re assemble and aline the phillips head screws holding the base plate. where you see the white plastic piece on the outlet is where that rubber piece goes on..

pump10.JPG
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#11
if you had not pulled the fuel pressure regulator out of the filter assembly..do so at this time

pump11.JPG
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#12
there are two phillips head screws that hold the float assembly to the top and on the side of the filter assembly... remove them so you have just the the filter assembly and set the float assembly aside. also here is a pic of the pre screen, gasket, and clip

Low pressure screen _amp_ bracket.jpg
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#13
now you should have just the filter assembly housing... what we are going to do is drill a hole into the filter area so that we bypass the fuel filter the area marked in red is where the fuel comes out after the filter

HP Filter Outlet Outlined.JPG
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#14
here is a diagram of the orientation and some pics showing the angles you should be aiming for...i would start with a small hole...use very little pressure..you want to only just penetrate the chamber that the fuel filter resides in. the drill size .177 give or take a .01 so 11/64th to a 3/16th max a 16 bit is exactly .177.

JS HP fuel filter hole2.jpg


Angleofbit1.jpg


Angleofbit2.jpg


Angleofbit3.jpg


Angleofbit4.jpg


Angleofbit5.jpg
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#16
if you were to cut open the assembly AGAIN WE ARE NOT CUTTING IT OPEN. THIS METHOD MAINTAINS THE INTEGRITY OF THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY AND DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE PRESSURE AND OR BLEED BACK INTO THE TANK AGAIN THIS METHOD DOES NOT CUT OPEN THIS PIC IS FOR DEMONSTRATIVE PURPOSE OF WHAT YOU ARE TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH...this is what the hole would look like into the filter chamber.

Holefrominsidechamber.jpg
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#17
now you are ready to reassemble the pump assembly replace back into the tank and then put an INLINE FILTER after the pump. i did find that a little silicone spray helped the gaskets
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#18
i used based on recommendation a 3310 style filter and this is what my local auto store had. along with 2 ft of FI hose and clamps i spent about 30$

IMG_0780.jpg


IMG_0776.jpg


IMG_0777.jpg
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#19
i chose to zip tie the filter to the wire harness's that run along the frame as i didn't want the fuel lines and filter resting on the engine and have heat issues. so i wrapped the filter with some electrical tape to avoid rubbing of the wiring harness

IMG_0783.jpg
 

chrisjp

GM of Haya's in the Hills
Donating Member
Registered
#20
time to prep the fuel lines. keeping the connections to the pump and to the Fuel injector assembly i cut the line in half. then i trimmed close to the clips. keep in mind there is a gasket (the green ring) you want to preserve. so i cut back the plastic hose till the end of the clip assembly then peeled with pliers till i got all the old plastic hose off the clips

IMG_0766.jpg


IMG_0768.jpg


IMG_0770.jpg


IMG_0772.jpg


IMG_0773.jpg
 

Similar threads





Most likes - Past 7 days

Latest Bikes

Forum statistics

Threads
171,437
Messages
3,060,601
Members
47,123
Latest member
Blacksmith
Top