fuel filter mod part 2 for filter removal option

first things first...if you followed the first thread for the dis-assembly of the pump assembly hopefully you now have just the fuel filter assembly in your hands. as we are going to be now working with a dremel i recommend these

IMG_0747.jpg
 
now using the dremel with as small of a disk as possible i followed the line at the top of the filter assembly and cut as shallow as possible to only cut the epoxy that they assembled the top and bottom part with

IMG_0745.jpg


IMG_0746.jpg


IMG_0748.jpg
 
next if you have cut well you should be able to pop the top off that holds the filter

IMG_0749.jpg
 
as you can see after 45k miles that filter is quite black and clogged. i then dremel'd off the part the filter slides onto. as it is also epoxied in and separate from the top assembly

IMG_0751.jpg


IMG_0753.jpg


IMG_0754.jpg
 
now to clean them up i used fine sandpaper to sand them flush so they would mate up easily without alot of gaps. it dont take much so use very little pressure

IMG_0756.jpg


IMG_0757.jpg


IMG_0758.jpg


IMG_0759.jpg
 
THIS PART DID NOT WORK...i am simply showing so you can understand what didn't work. on the bottom of the filter assembly it had "POM" after some google research that stands for Polyoxymethylene in short its a thermo molded plastic that epoxy's and even JBwield does not stick well to. this created problems. so i originally tried this epoxy in the pictures...seemed to hold quite well no air leaks (i would put my fingers in the holes and blow..using soap and water at the seams to see if bubbles. plus i could tell if it was leaking some by both sound of air escaping and it would loose pressure as you blow on it). i epoxy'd it...was concerned it was not gas tolerant as as much research i looked up it didn't specifically say that it was. once i put it back into the tank...i pressurized it and i listened to a POP!!.... OK THAT DIDNT WORK

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene

IMG_0760.jpg


IMG_0761.jpg


IMG_0762.jpg


IMG_0763.jpg


IMG_0764.jpg


IMG_0778.jpg


IMG_0788.jpg
 
SO....BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD. now here i later thought that maybe purple or red pvc pipe fitting would work great...but i didnt think of it till later ...not sure it would hold to POM plastic...and more importantly..is it gas soluble??? so instead i choose to go to harbor freight and pick up for 16$ a plastic weilder as it is thermo molded plastic and can be reheated over and over.

IMG_0794.jpg
 
after reading up and watching some videos on wielding plastic i clamped into alignment and did two quick tack wields

IMG_0795.jpg


IMG_0791.jpg


IMG_0792.jpg
 
using the point of the wielder run a groove all the way around to create a valley to fill in like normal wielding. then heat up and push the sides into the groove and smooth out to make the wield. if you need to fill...harbor freight had different rods with different types of plastic but choose to use zip ties as its harder plastic like the POM material the housing is made of. the one side was difficult to put together and i had to fill in because it wasn't a flat side...i had to dig it out a bit and push plastic in and fill it in... it seemed to weild fairly easy except for that one corner with the edge the pressure regulator goes into. NOTE remember the tabs to clip in the white clip to hold regulator in...keep that area clear so you can clip in

IMG_0796.jpg


IMG_0797.jpg


IMG_0799.jpg


IMG_0800.jpg
 
at this point i pressure tested and soap and bubble tested and kept having pin prick leaks. so after a while i went to Walmart and grabbed JBweild quick. mixed it up and put it on the area (JBweild is gas previous) and then "sucked" in so the JBweild would draw into the pinholes and seal it. JBweild still didnt stick that well to the smooth sides of the formed assembly. but did adhere well to the melted and roughed up areas. now later i also found that you need to watch how much you build up as it wont go back into the gas tank. so i had to sand down some in order to fit it into the gas tank.

IMG_0801.jpg


IMG_0802.jpg


IMG_0803.jpg


IMG_0804.jpg
 
refer back to this thread https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/175027-fuel-filter-mod.html
for the external filter and set up of the hose's... i soap tested after the JBweild and sanding...no leaks... reassembled and put in the tank and been riding since... personally i felt my first post with drilling a hole was simpler and easier and i wish i had choose to do that. we are still going to see how the pvc pipe glue works as that would make reassembly much easier if it is gas pervious. now all you have to do is change the external filter 10$ a pop...not 250$ like suzuki wants you to. hope this helps
 
Awesome write up Chris thanks for being the tester lol ...what about fiberglass resin ..would that have worked ? Just a thought
 
Weird question. When you removed the filter, was there a metal cap on the bottom of the filter paper?
 
lett us bring this thread back to life, cause OP was def. on the right track. Me being a plumber or was....used to work with welding PE, a high pressure pipe.

So this got me to the point of seeing all these pumps being welded this way. I own a B king and have the white bottom holder with a black sender unit cap. searched for a used pump and got one yesterday....took it apart, used a iron hand saw to cut off the top part straight on the welding line and all went well. Took out the fuel filter and now i only ran into 3 issues, the first was easy and that means cutting both square fuel ends in a angle, with this i mean where the fuel comes in. If you dont and you would melt it against a welding mirror then the chance is that your hole will be smaller. problem number 2....i dont own this welding machine anymore and with my impatience i figured to use a frying pan that should have a teflon layer. A frying pan didn't work out cause the plug for the pressure regulator is sticking out and you cant heat both ends up cause it aint flat, so you need this mirror like in the clip.
Offcourse i thought i was smart and flipped a gourmett pan upside down on a stove and heated it up. now i pressed both ends of the fuel holder against this pan and there is where it went wrong. The part where the FPR sits i used the side of this frying pan witch was rounded of and not straight, the black cover off the pump sticked to the pan and this caused a timming issue cause you need to work fast. Got it of and pressed both pieces of the holder together....and voila, its fused and sits good. So i was right about the welding part, but the form of the bottom part did change shape and left me with a hole to fill, right where the fuel pressure regulator sits.
Did some soldering iron stuff and everything is shut, going to try to melt some abs with acatone and see if this gives me an extra layer. If you can get your hand on the machine used in the you tube clip ( rental/friend/plumber) Then you can fuse both parts together again and it will be fused from the inside out, you could work the edges some with a soldering iron, but in theory if you done it like in the clip.....its shut. And if you own a bike with the all black fuel holder its even better.
So end result, you need this machine, teflon layer is different, and wont stick, you can easily manouvre both parts on the side and give even pressure for a few seconds, and if you did it good, then its closed and fused, so no need for extra material.
 
Back
Top