Front Wheel Removal, Gen2 Hayabusa



Mythos

Registered
Front Wheel Removal

also, LINK: Rear Wheel Removal

Be careful with rotors. Lean the wheels against a wall when they are removed or place them on a wheel stand. Do not lay the wheels on the ground or let them bump against objects.

The axles are often very tight from the factory. You may wish to follow the procedures for loosening the rear axle nut, front axle pinch bolts and front axle bolt before putting the bike up on stands. With the bike on its side stand, it may be less apt to be levered over with heavy torqueing. Be aware that the side stand can fold closed however. Be very cautious of a tip over any time you loosen the axles whether on a stand or the side stand.

Tools:
front a rear stands
Telephone books
Sharpie marker
24” breaker bar
high temp axle grease
Torque wrenches
4mm hex tool
10mm socket
22mm axle nut socket
24 mm hex tool

Do Ahead: Remove the front brake calipers (see Brake Caliper Removal, steps 14 through 16).

Use a 4mm hex tool to remove the front fender.

1602681

If you have OEM brake lines, the fender can hang loose on them. If you have a two line aftermarket brake line system installed, you will need to remove the front fender completely. I believe it is necessary to remove the front fender mudflap at the back bottom of the front fender in order to completely separate the fender from the bike. My front mudflap has been permanently removed. All I do after removing the fender bolts is flex the sides of the fender and pull it out of the forks.


21. Lift the bike with a rear stand and front stand (a fork lift stand works better for this than the steering pivot stand that is shown in the picture below).

Place books under the front tire to support it while the axle is removed.

1602682



22. Use a 10mm socket to loosen front axle pinch bolts on the right hand fork bottom. The RH pinch bolts should be totally loose so the axle is completely free of the RH axle clamp.

1602683



23. Use a 24” breaker bar and 22mm axle nut socket to remove the front axle bolt from the right hand fork bottom.

1602684


1602685


The pinch bolts on the LH fork bottom should hold the axle from turning while the axle bolt is removed but for added support, you can use a 24 mm hex tool to hold the axle while breaking the bolt loose.


24. Use a 10mm socket to loosen the front axle pinch bolts on the left hand fork bottom. Loosen the pinch bolts all the way so the axle is not secured by the clamp.

1602686



25. Remove the axle by pushing the it from the right while turning the axle with a 24mm hex tool on the left if necessary

1602687


Pull the axle out of the left fork bottom.

1602688



26. Roll the front wheel out of the forks.

1602689



27. The right side of the front wheel can be identified by the arrow mark which is molded into one spoke on the front wheel. The arrow marks the direction of rotation of the front wheel.

1602690



28. Remove the front axle collar from the right side of the wheel.

1602691

It is a good idea to mark the collar with a Sharpie so that it does not get confused with the rear wheel spacer.

Front Wheel Installation

29. Identify which side of the front wheel is the LH side and which is the RH side. Note the direction of rotation arrow shown in step 27 of this tutorial.

Install the spacer to the RH side of the front wheel as marked in step 28 of this tutorial.

1602692



30. Place books under the front wheel to support the wheel at the proper height so that it may be aligned for smooth insertion of the front axle.

Roll the wheel between the forks so that the spacer is squarely contacting the inside of the RH fork bottom. Visually align the hole in the wheel with the axle clamps on the fork bottoms.

1602694


1602693



31. Lube the portion of the front axle that passes through the wheel with a light film of high temp axle grease. Do not lube the expanded portion of the axle that goes in the axle clamp.

1602695



32. Slide the front axle through the LH fork clamp and through the wheel hub. It may bind a little bit but shift the position of the front wheel up or down or cock it slightly left to right while pressing the axle through. Do not use force.

1602696


Press the axle in until the expanded portion is flush with the LH fork bottom.


33. Thread the front axle bolt onto the RH side of the front axle.

Use a 24mm axle hex tool on the LH side of the front axle to hold the axle stable while torquing the axle bolt on the RH side with a 22mm axle nut socket.

Front Axle Bolt, Torque: 72.5 ft lbs.

1602697



34. Use a 10mm socket to snug the two axle pinch bolts on the RH fork bottom alternately so that pressure is applied to the axle evenly. Torque the RH pinch bolts evenly.

RH Axle Pinch Bolts, Torque: 16.5 ft lbs.

1602698



35. Compress the front suspension by hand four or five times to seat the axle.

1602699



36. Tighten and torque the two axle pinch bolts on the LH fork bottom following the same procedures described in step 34 of this tutorial.

LH Axle Pinch Bolts, Toque: 16.5 ft lbs.

1602700


Install the front fender. It’s a good idea to use blue locktite on the bolts.

Install the front Brake Calipers (see Front Brake Caliper Removal, steps 17 through 19).
 

Kiwi Rider

Registered
Nicely done!
One thing I do differently is with the front guard I don’t remove it, I just lift it high enough to roll the wheel out from under it.(I have 2 braided brake hoses)

Also with the calipers I support them with bungee cords hang them outta the way.
 

Mythos

Registered
One thing I do differently is with the front guard I don’t remove it, I just lift it high enough to roll the wheel out from under it.(I have 2 braided brake hoses)
Good tip. I might have done that one time in the past. You remove the front bolts and just loosen the rears so the fender will pivot up? I will try that next time.

I usually use string or wire to support my calipers but I doubt it harms the lines to let them hang on those.

I got the old sock idea from someone on here years back.
 

Kiwi Rider

Registered
Good tip. I might have done that one time in the past. You remove the front bolts and just loosen the rears so the fender will pivot up? I will try that next time.

I usually use string or wire to support my calipers but I doubt it harms the lines to let them hang on those.

I got the old sock idea from someone on here years back.
I remove all the guard bolts and lift it right up with one hand and roll the wheel out with the other.
It’s ok to hang the calipers for a short while, but not an extended period though.
 

Sandow

Registered
Good tip. I might have done that one time in the past. You remove the front bolts and just loosen the rears so the fender will pivot up? I will try that next time.

I usually use string or wire to support my calipers but I doubt it harms the lines to let them hang on those.

I got the old sock idea from someone on here years back.
Funny you just posted that today. I change my wheels last night actually. I always support my calipers with a string or a wire and dont let them hang loose as I find they are very heavy and I dont want to break the hose-metal connector.
I also only lift up the front guard like kiwi said.

Very nice write up! Thanks
 

Mythos

Registered
I take the fender off so I can get a good cleaning in there around the fork tubes and such. I always hang the calipers using a wire, I never let them hang.
Yes I do the same. Wheel removal is a good opportunity to clean those hard to reach areas and try to wash down the radiator a little bit. Best way to wash the radiator is take it off and spray from the back so as to not push stuff into the fins. ...I probably do that once every 5 years if I'm changing coolant at the time. Straighten fins then too.

I get way up almost to the front sprocket cleaning the grease and dirt out of the drive chain guide on the rear and I clean the under tail area and swingarm too.

Brake calipers, I have let them hang overnight with no problems but I agree, you might as well tie them somehow to make sure the lines or connections don't get damaged.

Great choice of tyre
Thanks, mate! YES, I have Supercorsas and Racetechs pictured here. I don't really need them for the street but I love 'em anyway! I started this tutorial 4 years ago and just now got around to finishing it. The last three years was pretty rough but things are stabilizing a bit now. Glad I kept the bikes no matter what happened.
 

ROY D. MERCER

Registered
Front Wheel Removal

also, LINK: Rear Wheel Removal

Be careful with rotors. Lean the wheels against a wall when they are removed or place them on a wheel stand. Do not lay the wheels on the ground or let them bump against objects.

The axles are often very tight from the factory. You may wish to follow the procedures for loosening the rear axle nut, front axle pinch bolts and front axle bolt before putting the bike up on stands. With the bike on its side stand, it may be less apt to be levered over with heavy torqueing. Be aware that the side stand can fold closed however. Be very cautious of a tip over any time you loosen the axles whether on a stand or the side stand.

Tools:
front a rear stands
Telephone books
Sharpie marker
24” breaker bar
high temp axle grease
Torque wrenches
4mm hex tool
10mm socket
22mm axle nut socket
24 mm hex tool

Do Ahead: Remove the front brake calipers (see Brake Caliper Removal, steps 14 through 16).

Use a 4mm hex tool to remove the front fender.

View attachment 1602681
If you have OEM brake lines, the fender can hang loose on them. If you have a two line aftermarket brake line system installed, you will need to remove the front fender completely. I believe it is necessary to remove the front fender mudflap at the back bottom of the front fender in order to completely separate the fender from the bike. My front mudflap has been permanently removed. All I do after removing the fender bolts is flex the sides of the fender and pull it out of the forks.


21. Lift the bike with a rear stand and front stand (a fork lift stand works better for this than the steering pivot stand that is shown in the picture below).

Place books under the front tire to support it while the axle is removed.

View attachment 1602682


22. Use a 10mm socket to loosen front axle pinch bolts on the right hand fork bottom. The RH pinch bolts should be totally loose so the axle is completely free of the RH axle clamp.

View attachment 1602683


23. Use a 24” breaker bar and 22mm axle nut socket to remove the front axle bolt from the right hand fork bottom.

View attachment 1602684

View attachment 1602685

The pinch bolts on the LH fork bottom should hold the axle from turning while the axle bolt is removed but for added support, you can use a 24 mm hex tool to hold the axle while breaking the bolt loose.


24. Use a 10mm socket to loosen the front axle pinch bolts on the left hand fork bottom. Loosen the pinch bolts all the way so the axle is not secured by the clamp.

View attachment 1602686


25. Remove the axle by pushing the it from the right while turning the axle with a 24mm hex tool on the left if necessary

View attachment 1602687

Pull the axle out of the left fork bottom.

View attachment 1602688


26. Roll the front wheel out of the forks.

View attachment 1602689


27. The right side of the front wheel can be identified by the arrow mark which is molded into one spoke on the front wheel. The arrow marks the direction of rotation of the front wheel.

View attachment 1602690


28. Remove the front axle collar from the right side of the wheel.

View attachment 1602691
It is a good idea to mark the collar with a Sharpie so that it does not get confused with the rear wheel spacer.

Front Wheel Installation

29. Identify which side of the front wheel is the LH side and which is the RH side. Note the direction of rotation arrow shown in step 27 of this tutorial.

Install the spacer to the RH side of the front wheel as marked in step 28 of this tutorial.

View attachment 1602692


30. Place books under the front wheel to support the wheel at the proper height so that it may be aligned for smooth insertion of the front axle.

Roll the wheel between the forks so that the spacer is squarely contacting the inside of the RH fork bottom. Visually align the hole in the wheel with the axle clamps on the fork bottoms.

View attachment 1602694

View attachment 1602693


31. Lube the portion of the front axle that passes through the wheel with a light film of high temp axle grease. Do not lube the expanded portion of the axle that goes in the axle clamp.

View attachment 1602695


32. Slide the front axle through the LH fork clamp and through the wheel hub. It may bind a little bit but shift the position of the front wheel up or down or cock it slightly left to right while pressing the axle through. Do not use force.

View attachment 1602696

Press the axle in until the expanded portion is flush with the LH fork bottom.


33. Thread the front axle bolt onto the RH side of the front axle.

Use a 24mm axle hex tool on the LH side of the front axle to hold the axle stable while torquing the axle bolt on the RH side with a 22mm axle nut socket.

Front Axle Bolt, Torque: 72.5 ft lbs.

View attachment 1602697


34. Use a 10mm socket to snug the two axle pinch bolts on the RH fork bottom alternately so that pressure is applied to the axle evenly. Torque the RH pinch bolts evenly.

RH Axle Pinch Bolts, Torque: 16.5 ft lbs.

View attachment 1602698


35. Compress the front suspension by hand four or five times to seat the axle.

View attachment 1602699


36. Tighten and torque the two axle pinch bolts on the LH fork bottom following the same procedures described in step 34 of this tutorial.

LH Axle Pinch Bolts, Toque: 16.5 ft lbs.

View attachment 1602700

Install the front fender. It’s a good idea to use blue locktite on the bolts.

Install the front Brake Calipers (see Front Brake Caliper Removal, steps 17 through 19).
Finally an in depth understandable article on wheel removal!! Thanks greatly appreciated.
 


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