Front Wheel Bearings

rubber2burn

rubber2burn

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Ok doing the front wheel bearing and I did use the search and went through the threads but here is the problem I seen the special tool but do not have access to it and I spent a while with the screw driver and hammer trying to get one side out but have been unsuccessful so how did you get the first side out I know once you get the first side out the other comes out with ease but just need some adive on how to get that first side out.
 
rubber2burn said:
Ok doing the front wheel bearing and I did use the search and went through the threads but here is the problem I seen the special tool but do not have access to it and I spent a while with the screw driver and hammer trying to get one side out but have been unsuccessful so how did you get the first side out I know once you get the first side out the other comes out with ease but just need some adive on how to get that first side out.
Click to expand...
Just keep trying, it take a little force to get it started!
 
Keep going around the inside race.
If you don't it will come out crooked (lopsided) and then it will be even more difficult.
I use a 1/2 inch exrension and put the end where the ratchet fits into the hole and onto the race of the bearing.
It is round and gives a little more purchase.
keep hitting it and moving it around a little, and it should come out.
 
rubber2burn said:
Ok doing the front wheel bearing and I did use the search and went through the threads but here is the problem I seen the special tool but do not have access to it and I spent a while with the screw driver and hammer trying to get one side out but have been unsuccessful so how did you get the first side out I know once you get the first side out the other comes out with ease but just need some adive on how to get that first side out.
Click to expand...



:easy: Get a bigger hammer :whistle:
 
The problem is that the bearing is steel and the wheel is aluminum.
The different metals cause a reaction between themselves and alsmost "weld" themselves together.
I put a tiny layer of anti-seize lubricant on the outside of the new ones (not enough to make them slip) and then put them in.
Don't pound on the new ones.
Get a long bolt or threaded rod and some washers and pull them in with a nut on the threaded rod.
There is an article somewhere about the tiny defromations that are made to the roller balls when you hammer them in, and how that can cause them to fail, so try the bolt way. It works real slick.
 
Look in the tech manual. Internal wheel opening is conical, you can move spacer further to one side and it will be a lot easier.
 
Here is a picture of the tool I made to pull the bearings in.
I even use a piece of wood for the opposite side of the wheel, when I first start with the first bearing.
This works good for swing arm bearings too.

DSC09993.JPG
 
mike1180 said:
The problem is that the bearing is steel and the wheel is aluminum.
The different metals cause a reaction between themselves and alsmost "weld" themselves together.
I put a tiny layer of anti-seize lubricant on the outside of the new ones (not enough to make them slip) and then put them in.
Don't pound on the new ones.
Get a long bolt or threaded rod and some washers and pull them in with a nut on the threaded rod.
There is an article somewhere about the tiny defromations that are made to the roller balls when you hammer them in, and how that can cause them to fail, so try the bolt way. It works real slick.
Click to expand...

Thanks man yeah been working the screw driver thing for hours but have not been able to get it to bite on the bearing. I have worked it around the out side of the bearing and have not gotten it to budge. Yeah I will use the washer thing for sure.
 
Vic_E55_2001 said:
Look in the tech manual. Internal wheel opening is conical, you can move spacer further to one side and it will be a lot easier.
Click to expand...

Yeah one side is a little wider.
You can't tell which side from the outside once you have the wheel off, but you can put your finger in and move the spacer. One wheel bearing will let it move to the side a little more.
 
mike1180 said:
Here is a picture of the tool I made to pull the bearings in.
I even use a piece of wood for the opposite side of the wheel, when I first start with the first bearing.
This works good for swing arm bearings too.
Click to expand...

and seals as well.
 
if not pulling the new bearings into place, a brass drift will work as well... on outer race only, never hit the inner race/bearing assy unless you are throwing it away..
 
Here is the article about damage to the bearing if you hammer it.
It is about removal, but goes for installation too.

http://www.goallballs.com/Bearings_seals.asp?page=WBK

REMOVING WHEEL BEARINGS:
When you knock a bearing out of a wheel, for chroming, powdercoating, etc., you are fundamentally destroying that bearing. In fact, there's no other way to get it out without destroying it because it's pressed in on the outer diameter but access to the bearing is from the inner diameter. So you're putting an impact force across the balls of the bearing, which damages it. It's called loading across the bearing races. You're putting little microscopic dents into the ball and the race, and over time they get aggravated. The technical term is brinneling; when you put a shock force on an outer race to an inner race across the balls, that's what you get.
 
Mr Bogus said:
if not pulling the new bearings into place, a brass drift will work as well... on outer race only, never hit the inner race/bearing assy unless you are throwing it away..
Click to expand...

YEah I have new bearings so the old ones do not matter
 
bearing sizes for anyone that needs em 99-03 busa

front wheel bearings x2 = 6205
rear wheel bearings x2 = 6032
sprocket carrier bearing = 6232

sizes for koyo bearings as originally fitted
:poke:

price guide in uk front pair £12.89
rear pair £25.80
sprocket carrier bearing £11.28

for anyone in the uk sourced from gear4bikes.com uk

bearing seals are a seperate item about £7 each
 
I no luck getting mine out without a bearing puller. Even then I had a hard time. I put the wheel outside on the cold overnight and then heated the hub part of the rim with a heat gun. Bearings came out much easier. That helps putting them in as well. Freze the bearings and heat the wheel
 
Replaced my fronts a year ago. One of them went in middle of a ride.

Easy to get them out with a punch. Really hard to get new ones in without right tools. Took rims to a local 4WD shop and he put them in for me. He did it by hand but knew what he as doing. Don't trust myself to do that stuff.

Had to leave the very next morning on another ride.
 
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