From neutral to first gear

It’s happening every time I come up to a red light and put the bike in neutral. I pull in the clutch to click down into first and nothing happens.Thats with the clutch pulled in all the way to the handlebar grip. When I have it halfway pulled in it will shift into first just fine. Is this because it needs to be bled? I’m having the clutch bled in a few days. Thanks.
 
what do you have for levers?
I think they are cheap offbrand levers that came with the bike

image.jpg
 
(...) If I adjust the switch they stick out to far.

okay,
but does the clutch then work fine?
if (seemingly) yes, you got a (chinese?) crap lever at the left master.
the "way" it makes (at full "lever pull") to move the piston is at switch pos. 2 seemingly to small,
so the piston doesn´t push enough fluid and the slave doesn´t move far enough out.

my 1st step to exclude that would be to
try to get an original lever (used/pre owned) and try with that.
if your clutch works fine with that, at all its switch positions, you pretty much beyond doubt got the reason for your issue.

2nd step would be to bleed the system from down to up as described here (in english)
 
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With that red adjustment lever,and those 3 holes,they are either Pazzo Shorties or a close knock off.
I find it odd that a full pull on the lever gets you less clutch actuation than a half pull.It is usually the reverse. Regardless of the fact that they "stick out to far" did the fix(s) that Mr. Berlin mention above help? He is offering a diagnosis.
Rubb.
 
First, the problem: Try changing the oil if this problem bothers you enough. I wait 2500 miles and at about that time, I will notice the bike miss a shift now and then. That's the real signal to change oil.

Before the oil needs changing, it's not uncommon for me to have the same problem you are experiencing. Come to a stop sign, I only got down to 2nd gear before stopping, the transmission won't go from 2 to 1, it gets stuck between 2nd and first but not in Neutral, the gear indicator goes blank. Slowly, carefully release tension on the clutch lever until it pops into 1st on its own and then pull the lever back to the grip. Another thing that might work is to roll the bike a few inches but that takes more work.

Thanks for reminding me to check the mileage on that oil I'm running now.

Second, Chinazzos: There was a great thread going here years back about counterfeit Pazzos. A guy did a test with lab equipment. He didn't want to put an expensive Pazzo through the same test but he determined that even though the metal may have been inferior, the Chinese copies were probably at least as strong as real Pazzos. The Chinazzos I bought were a bit paler in color than real Pazzos. They were also a bit thicker than real Pazzos which may have been an improvement. I've noticed in a few cases where I bought Chinese knockffs, the parts were not only copied but the design was improved upon. There are probably many factories in China that copy Pazzos so some might not be as good as others. The anodizing is likely to be inferior in appearance and it may fade easier. So far, I've had good luck with Chinese parts. I've bought three sets of Chinese axle sliders over the course of a few years and it appeared that the design had been improved each time. They're not just copying, they're innovating. Chinese parts are often worth a try considering how cheap they are if you can wait a few months for delivery. Bear in mind, it's probably never worth return shipping if you are not happy.

I have Pazzos on both my bikes and as long as they are installed correctly, they work great. The Suzuki has a better mechanism than Kawasaki for interfacing with the master cylinder so improper installation would be unlikely on a busa. I have heard of the levers putting pressure on the MC resulting in the brake switch constantly being activated or the clutch slipping. If this were to be the case with your Chinese clutch lever, the clutch would never be fully engaged. Engaging it more by releasing the lever halfway wouldn't cause the shift drum to roll easier than completely disengaging the clutch by pulling to the grip.

I would first change oil. Not instantly better? Change the Pazzo copy to OEM and test it. Buy an OEM lever on Ebay if necessary. I think your problem is worn out oil though.

...and don't put your bike in N at a stoplight! That's unnecessary risk. Leave it in 1st. :D
 
Awesome points @Mythos you are back on the Christmas Card List. :thumbsup:
Chinazzos...love it :laugh: and agree.
The in gear at a light thing... I agree 100%,but when I was SLAUGHTERED at a light it happened so fast,I did not stand a chance. (rear-ended,vehicle struck me at +60 miles an' hour)

From this....

2000 busa.jpg


to this....

bike 012.jpg


to...."Nap Time"

crash 3.jpg


Chinazzo's...love that...will laugh for a bit on that one.
Post #3....the im POS tors...
Below,mine,the real deal. Very close proximity. Price point diff... :eek:
Rubb.

L1.jpg
L2.jpg
 
@rubbersidedown Wow not to go totally off topic at great length or anything but that must have been a tremendous crash! Rearended at 60+ mph!!! You probably flew 20 feet in the air. Ugh.....I try to keep an eye in the bar end mirror and leave an escape path just incase I see someone approaching too fast. I actually started to take off one time. It still could be very ugly if you get hit by the vehicle that gets rear ended or some flying parts or something.

You see in your pics that large hole in the clutch lever? That has a bras cog in it. I remeber that cog is very easy to see when you install the the lever to the perch and the MC pushrod. I don't think you could get the clutch lever on without having the pin stuck in the cog the way it's supposed to go. It seemed a lot more foolproof than the Kawasaki design.
clchlvr.pvtblt.nstl.jpg


That Kawasaki Pazzo clutch lever I put on my 14 was installed wrong and it did cause the clutch to slip under heavy throttle. It also became gritty from the wear the pushpin put in the aluminum of the lever. I took it apart and cleaned and greased everything. Then I reinstalled it properly and it works fine now. It's a good idea to clean and grease that cog deal every year at least. Might as well hit the pivot pin in the perch too. Maybe the brake is not necessary but the clutch for sure. The grease in the adjuster and adjuster pivot is probably good for life. I took those apart and they had plenty of factory grease after about 8 years of use.

You got yours from Pashnit too I see. That custom etching is so cool. Love it.

busa.pazzo.clutch.jpg
.
 
check this out @Mythos its my new thing...my new "Shtick"

  • gease,awesome
  • install levers with Zook,almost fool proof
  • Kawasaki...you bought one of those :laugh: :poke:
  • like the bar endz
  • been buying from Tim ( @pashnit ) for years. Top notch human
  • Whadda think of my new black dot system thingy? cool factor 10 right?
  • Rubb.
 
It’s happening every time I come up to a red light and put the bike in neutral. I pull in the clutch to click down into first and nothing happens.Thats with the clutch pulled in all the way to the handlebar grip. When I have it halfway pulled in it will shift into first just fine. Is this because it needs to be bled? I’m having the clutch bled in a few days. Thanks.
Mine will do what I think your explaining, basically first doesn't drop right in from neutral but if u start slowly releasing the clutch it'll engage. Just always assume it to be that first isn't quite lined up and once u start releasing the clutch it let's the gears line up and drop in. Rode quite a few bikes that have done this and never had any issues.
 
what the engineers found out in several tests here in germany was,
that the "Chinazzo" levers like to brake lot of times.
NOT FUNNY i guess - espacially at the front brake.

so i strongly recommend only to use per-tested parts (levers) from american or european companies.

if our german police stops a motorcycle and find such "Chinazzo" (brake and/or clutch) levers at the motorcycle,
then she asks the owner to unscrew the levers and then the police confiscates these two levers.
how the owner then gets his motorcycle back home is his problem - at least he can't drive a yard / meter.

there is a nice documentation movie in the (german) internet about this happening - the biker was definitely "not amused" - you could see that clearly.
but in this case i'm glad that the police took a close look and acted accordingly.
such crap is a huge danger for everyone - for the user and for everyone else too .

german companies are probably the most safest because they have to get officially checked the levers and have to apply for a official test certificate of our german federal office.
this certificate i numbered and this number you find on the lever(s) (starts with KBA plus ####)
(haye a look for Lucas, TRW, ProBrake, metal gear, and so on)

the damn china snot ´n crap doesn't even come to my garage.

the smallest danger is to have to buy it twice, the biggest is to loose your life
or does someone really use the chinese brake discs or pads?
 
@Berlin Germany I would trust American or European manufactured parts more than Chinese copies but a lever is so basic I would almost not even call it mechanical. If it fits properly installing it, there should be no problem using it. If a lever requires pressing in the pushpin to install, it almost definitely will have the brake and/or clutch applied all the time. I don't know about Europe but a lot of American stuff is really made in China. It's not that the Chinese can't make good stuff, it's just that there's not as much to loose if they don't.
 
Mine will do what I think your explaining, basically first doesn't drop right in from neutral but if u start slowly releasing the clutch it'll engage. Just always assume it to be that first isn't quite lined up and once u start releasing the clutch it let's the gears line up and drop in. Rode quite a few bikes that have done this and never had any issues.
All of my Suzukis have done this from time to time generally when they are hot...even after a fresh oil change, it might be the nature of the beast-one of the many quirks to deal with.
 
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