Fpr squeels like a pig after boost

turbojonn

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After I get on the throttle I notice that the fpr squeels (when I slow down again enough to hear it). If I turn the bike off and then re-start it the sqeel stops. I was told that I need to back out the fpr adjustment and re-set it, or shim it. Can anyone elaborate on this? Is it as simple as loosening the adjustment screw and then putting it back to it's original position? I have it set at 1/4 turn back from full tight right now. I just got heat wrap and will wrap up the fpr and fuel pump too.
Is this squeeling just a nuscance, or does it indicate that the fpr is NOT doing something that it is suppose to do. In other words, will it hurt the bike? It looks as though the idle pressure drops about 1 psi when it's squeeling but that could just be me looking for a drop, it's very hard to tell. My bike is so close to care free riding I can smell it. Thanks in advance for your help--JT
 
It's the only thing left to fix. I can't sell it now. I'm so close! I put it up for sale along with my turbo 750. The 750 sold and then it hit me. What other bike do I want more than my busa? I had always wanted a copper silver busa from the first time I saw one. I'm still not sure if I 'lucked out' in finding one that was turbo'd. I think I'll feel differently whn I can ride it without the pig squeeling. Every time I hear the giant wooosh of the blow off valve I smile and love the bike more. Then I have to turn the bike off and then back on. So close. It doesn't squeel if I don't hit boost so I guess for now it's kind of like an irresposible behavior governor.
 
Took it out today for a 75 mile ride. It works great as long as you don't get it to boost. After it boosts the fuel pressure doesn't drop back to 43, it drops down to about 38. I turn it off, then back on, and it's back to normal. On the last bit of my ride I got on it and now the fuel pressure guage stays steady at 55 lbs. WTF! I'll swap out guages probably on Sunday to see if it's just the guage. Does anybody know what could be going on? I have no clue. Oh yeah, I heat wrapped the fpu and fuel pump. It was squeeling bad today. Afew times it even squeeled after I did the shut off/turn on thing.
 
It is billet. It's just like the one on Motorheads stage 1 kit. Adjustment bolt on top for pressure. Screw in adjustment on side for rising rate.
 
Are you using a PC3 USB? How much fuel pressure are you seeing when you go under boost lets say full throttle going down the road? What is your static fuel pressure set at? What kind of kit is this again?
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When you say it comes back down to 38 psi are we talking about a stage 1 kit with check valve going to the FMU? If it'sa stage 2 kit with regulator and no check valve then when the bike idles or has any vacuum fuel pressure will be less than static with key on.If you have a stage 2 kit you can get a new regulator (1:1) for $60 from summit.
 
If you don't have a restrictor inline or one way check valve the fuel pressure will rise and fall in error because the fmu is seeing vacuum which it should not...Also did you replace the metal shim???
 
The static is set at 43 lbs. It reads off the guage (over 10) when it boosts. It's a Mr. Turbo kit and the fmu looks like the ones I've seen in the picture of the kit online. It's using a PC2 and I'll have to check to see if there's a check valve in the vacuum line to the fpu. I don't bleieve there is one.I know there's one in the lines going to the throttle boldies and one to the mapping. Thanks for the help and interest.
Thanks Stunnah, Smithabusa and Nitrousjunkie for your help. This thing is so much fun, I can't wait until it's blastable. It was before. It hasn't always squeeled post boost. I know it has done it in the past, but I have for sure hammered it and come to a stop and not had it squeel. However, I have done alot of stuff to it since I got it last Summer.
Smithabusa, I'm not sure what shimming is. I knew you had mentioned it before but I didn't know how to do that and I thought until last night that I may have fixed the problem. Are there any threads about this that you know of?
Thanks again for your continued help--JT
 
Check over at the other site tons of info on shim installs...It's pretty simple...Hell I did it...Just remember its the bolts on the bottom not top of the fmu...
 
The billet style Cartech FMU's are notorious for sticking. Some came from the factory lubricated with a grease that hardened over time. Try trying it apart and cleaning so the internal parts move freely.
 
I'll go to the depot today and start the shim replacement. I'm hoping I didn't blow the head gasket. It was a bit down on fluid?! About half a cup of coolent low. Overheated for the first time. Although it was 85 degree stop and go driving for miles, and I never smelled any antifreeze. One thing at a time, I'll start with the fpr.
 
I think you only need to be concern with the overflow bottle if its full or blowing out...
 
I think a rebuild kit is in order. I took it apart, cleaned it and greased it. Put the old rubber and spacer back in, as I had to seal it up so it wouldn't gas us aout of the house. Now it's a one way regulator. It squeels differently, but it goes off the scale and stays off the scale until I loosen a fuel line clamp. I didn't think it would work to just clean it, I just thought I'ld reassemble it to see if it acted  differently... IT DID! I did have a chance to put in a new supply line and re-route it so it wouldn't kink. Now I just have to wait for a new spacer and I'm pretty sure I'll need to get a new rubber diaphragm too. Mine has an imprint from wear. I'll keep you all posted.-- JT
And good news, the head gasket is fine.



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