fork reseal question

pcs

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i searched around on the site but did come up with much for my questions on redoing seals. i skimmed through the sticky as well. i weigh about 170lbs with only shorts so my busa wheelies very easily when i get on it, so needless to say my fork seals lasted a little over 11k miles.
1. any preference on seals or certain brands not recommended?
2. oil weights that people who wheelie often use?
3. i found a post of a member saying to use a little less than the factory spec of oil if you wheelie often, did not read why or if their is truth to it?

thx for any inputs
 
that is the one i read through first, good info, and this weekend im ordering the seal kit. maybe now the wheelie experts can chime in
 
Expert? Ha! Thanks 2bros, but I'm just filling in til the real riders show up.

As far as your fork seals and wheelies go...good luck.
OP, from the sound of your post it seems like you're doing power wheelies only(no disrespect at all, and correct me if I'm wrong).
You're hard on the throttle, wheel up, and it's up til you run out of gear/rpm, or road. Correct?
Then the front drops and you shift, then maybe repeat in 2nd or 3rd?
If so, it is what it is. Your fork seals will never last like that.
If you want to wheelie and get some fork seal life, you must learn to set the bike down easy; but to do that, you need to learn to ride a balanced wheelie. Meaning, you get the front up and keep it there as long as you want.
If you can do that, then you can set the front down easier than a regular power wheelie.
After you're done with your balanced wheelie, you ease out of the the throttle and lower the front back down slowly. As the wheel gets really close to road, get back in the throttle. At this point it'll be too late to pull the front back up, but it'll make the touchdown very soft.
Depending on tire, temp, and road, sometimes you get a tire screech and/or puff of smoke, like a plane landing.
Keep in mind too that you need some room to do this, even if you were doing a slow wheelie. Considering how fast a Busa(and most sportbikes) accelerate.
Easing back to the ground like this is much more forgiving on fork seals than just cutting or running out of power, and dropping the front with a thud. Which usually involves bottoming the suspension.
Even with the way I just stated, the seals still take some abuse, nothing is foolproof; but they will last a lot longer.
I've been riding, wrenching and wheelieing for around 25 years now(I'm 36)....and how and why do you think I learned to replace fork seals?:laugh: Gotta pay to play, nothin's free.
It aslo seems to be the consensus here that OEM Suzuki seals are the only way to go, and that's all I've ever used.
If you have stands and tools, around $100 will cover seals and oil.
5w oil is stock, and you can use 7w, 10w, or even mix it.
I'm 173 lbs and add roughly 20lbs of leathers and helmet. I switched to 7w oil in my gen2 forks(yep, had a damp seal).
The 7w was just something I tried and liked in the Busa, a preference only. To me it made the front feel a little firmer and better suited to a big heavy bike. The 5w gave it kind of a flimsy feel to me. I think more so I could've made use of an upgraded suspension, but at my weight and only being a street rider, there was no real need for it.
All this being said, make sure you've set your suspension sag for YOUR body weight, with YOU on the bike. With gear on too, and if you don't have any, it's money well spent. I'll be the first to go cruise in a t-shirt and shorts(and always a helmet), but always full gear for anything else. Yes, it doesn't make that much sense, because you can crash or get run over anywhere at any speed; but that's life.
Twobrothers has a great "how to" for fork seals, check it out.
As for the wheelies...Practice!:beerchug:
 
If you are an avid wheelie guy and replacing your own seals, I would recommend this:

Reduce the volume of oil you replace by one ounce (No more than). The reason is, you cannot get all the oil from the fork cartridge. The volume of oil listed in the manual is total when the fork is brand new or it has been completely disassembled and cleaned thoroughly. There will be a half ounce or more in residue left in the cartridge. When you fill the fork with the factory recommended amount they will always be a little over the full mark.

While an extra few cc's of oil doesn't affect the average rider it does reduce the volume of air trapped internally. When the fork is compressed the air is compressed and builds pressure. This adds to the resistance acting like an overload spring. Less air means higher pressures when compressed. Internal pressure is what causes the oil seal to fail. So it makes sense to reduce the oil level a little (Up to but no more than one ounce) to increase air volume. Remember, more air equals less internal pressure which will extend the life of your seals, especially if you are beating the shetz out of them with poor wheelie control.

For those of you who may have a bit more girth than Sixpack you can add a little oil your forks (No more than one ounce) which adds resistance throughout the stroke. A stiffer spring is the real answer if your forks are bottoming out. Raising the oil level is a bandaid that works but it doesn't replace the need for a stiffer spring.
 
power and clutch wheelies go hand and hand for me so no disrespect taken. started riding since atc's were still legal =) clutch wheelies are easy to control but i didnt get a busa for wheelies, if that was the case i would have stayed with a lighter bike. the power wheelies come when i get with a small group and we head out to some empty roads for some spirited riding. i think ill try out the 7w fork oil 6pack since we are about the same weight. ive got plenty of tools but need to borrow a front stand to get started and get the seals ordered, im going to hit up honda east toledo for the OEM seals.
i sometimes ride shorts and t when i go to class. its only a 10 minute ride down an empty street
thx for all the inputs guys no time to order and get wrenching!
 
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