Fork Rebound Screw Won't Click

BusaBenny

Registered
Hey guys. I had my forks serviced earlier this season. Before they went in the slotted rebound dampening screw wouls clicker fine. They would click almost right way when turning them out. Now on both forks I have to turn them out like two full turns before I begin to FAINTLY feel a click and then they click fine.

Is there anyway I can fix this? Or when I feel the first faintl click is that the first click? Thanks.
 
Did you try backing them all the way out then re-seating them, then back them off to where you want them?
 
How do I reseat them? I tried turning them all the way out to soft and then all the way in to hard. Is that how I reseat them? Thanks.
 
Just like it sounds. Turn the screw counterclockwise until you feel it stop, then all the way clockwise until it bottoms, then back it out however many clicks you desire. Do not force it at either end of it travel (rotation).
 
Oh ok. So I did that and it's a little better but it still has a few very faint clicks. The stock setting is 8 clicks out (counterclockwise), so from full soft how many is it? Because I'm thinking I will just try and set it that way? Thanks
 
Don't be concerned with having them set to a certain number of turns. Factory "settings" are total BS.
You Need to set the suspension sag to Your body weight.
There is no one correct setting.
Make sure both forks are set the same until you can correctly have the front And rear set.
If the front is perfect and the rear is bad, or vice versa, the whole ride suffers. Both need to be set right for You the rider, and wearing all of your gear (if any), because that adds to your body weight, weight on the bike.
 
Here is a good place to start, but as mentioned above this is only a starting point. Every bike/rider combo will be best suited to a certain amount of spring preload, compression and rebound damping. There is no golden bullet, though the new bikes with ESA are attempting to do just that.
 
I used to go by feel then by the book. I gave up on the book. That's just my experience. For the roads here the book will cover my riding for about 70% of the roads maybe as much as 75%. But that last 25% is so way off it's legs up body position up and over the handle bar . Using the book can be an ok baseline, but but but, at some time there's a bit of compromise to be made. Compromise between the roads and the way the bike is ridden. Set the bike up, find the bumpiest roads and tune from there as one option.
 
Hi Busabenny. Cool name. Not sure if you've had any luck and looking back I didn't address your question. If i can post the picture here goes ( take from a 2007). When assembling the forks, the cap #17 screws down and stops against #12 the nut. The nut sets the height. I don't know what the height is supposed to be by the book, but if the installed height of the nut changed then that can affect your clicker. I'm thinking the nut might have been set a little on the high side. You can also check your settings against the stock settings. If you have the same # of clicks as in the book then the height is probably correct. Conversely, if you have less clicks then what should have the height of the nut might be a little low.

front forks.JPG
 
Wow that other thread has a ton of good information. Thank you bigoltool. Joe thats what I'm thinking before you posted the diagram. I think that the shop didn't set them right. Not to say that they are way off but they are off. By how much I'm not sure because I don't know what the total number of clicks should be.
 
I serviced my forks recently and had this same problem. There's a lock nut on a rod inside the fork that was over tightened. I checked the manual and tightened it to spec and the problem went away. Heres a pic of my manual showing the exact height where the lock nut is supposed to be.

Screenshot_2017-12-06-17-04-47.png
 
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