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OB_ZXALAN

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I am having a problem with my Y2K. Its seems to be really rich but has hesitations as if it were lean below 3K. I have YOSH DUPLEX, FULL MOD BOX, SHORT STACKS,NO PAIR AND ORIGINALLY SET AT 11:45, 0,+5,+10. We remapped on the dyno to +5,+5,0 and picked up 5 hp. Bike hesitated badbelow 3k on the way home but hauled a$$. I set the idle adj. at 12:00 and it got better but still smokes slightly when revving it in neutral, hesitates below 3k and the spark plugs are black! The TPS is at midway at 1150 and top mark at 1650 rpms. All vacuum hoses are connected as are the sensor connections. The fuel return line is is routed per the manual and is not kinked. I think I am going to get hotter plugs and maybe try to return the ecm back to stock settings. Then the machine should be real lean, if not then something is wrong elsewhere. If I cant find it and the help from you guys doesnt find it then the stupid a$$ dealers really are not going to find it and I guess I'll just shoot myself!
 
Hose the Pair valve (do a search on the subject).

If worse comes to worse, ask Frank he will fly in to help you sort out your bike.

Kinda guy he is!
 
even though yours is a 2000 it sounds as though the pressure regulator screen maybe blocked ?i never take fuel out on a bike.i run stock piped bikes with an airbox mod +5+5+5 with an a/f ratio about 12.5 to 12.75 -1 so there is something either causing excessive fuel pressure or very poor atomization.try unplugging you ecm for a short time to erase all short term memory.(it dropped all my yosh settings on mine this way}and then plug everything in a short time later 15 min or so{it may dump it right away i'm not sure]and see what symptom it gives with no program at all.sorry i havent solved your delema as of yet.you're welcome to call if you feel i may be of assistance in helping you solve your problem.it's hartd sometimes to solve long distance problems .so it takes longer than if it were in front of ones face.

[This message has been edited by THE MOTORHEAD (edited 24 May 2000).]
 
Mhead, I disconnected the ECM for about 30 mins and then remapped it to the stock 12:00,0,0,0 settings and it didnt seem to change anything. It still has a cough at about 2500 rpms and if you revv it above 5000 rpms whisps of black smoke come out. I dont think it does it when under a hard load but I am not going to turn around to look! i still smell strong exhaust fumes when revving it in the drive way(open area!)It almost acts like its lean on bottom end (idle - 4000) rich in the midrange (5000-8000 rpms) and I cant tell about the upper because I am not going to free rev it that high. i know this is a very unorthodox method of determing the a/f but no Performance shop around here has a a/f meter! and only two or three have dynos all of the mechanics are idiots and the operators are worse. I dont need to pay someone to %$#& up my bike, i am doing that just fine on my own! My bike should be really lean right now but it doesnt act like it. I wonder if my Yosh box is even working!!! I cant tell a difference between any of the settings I have tried!! I checked all of the hoses,vacuum lines etc. Oh one thing, right now I have Red Line in the tank, would that maybe make it smoke a little more?? The bike only has 2700 miles and has had a pro flow inline filter since 700 miles, it cant be the pump or the regulator, can it?? My ZX11 was slower but at least it ran right!!
 
I live in Deer Park which is about 20 miles east of Houston. I am trying to get my bike ready for the races in June. I was going to race tonight but if my bike is not right, I dont even like riding it to the store!! Which vacuum line? I was thinking of pulling off the regulator and trying to clean it. The bike only has 2700 miles, has had an inline filter since 600 miles and receives only premium fuel from well known gas stations, the same place I fill up my 99 Formula which has never F%&*$D Up!!, I also have Red Line in the take right now, maybe too much though (half bottle).I have not synched the TB's but I think the problem is bigger then that. That thing should be VERY lean right now(full box mod,race header, No PAIR and all stock ECM settings) and it still hesitates and smokes a little black. Plugs are black too!!
HOTTER PLUGS??? I cant believe a new bike with few miles and mild modifications can screw up this bad. I had a Muzzy equipped ZX-11, put 14000 miles(VERY HARD) and two complete racing seasons 1000 passes (HARD)and it never and I mean never F%^&#D up!!All of the cycle shops around here in Houston suck serious A$$!!! I am tired of spending money trying to get it to run right, I have to fix it myself, Oh and with the help of you guys(THANKS JCHEESE AND MOTORHEAD)If you can come across any more suggestions, let me know cause I am stumped.
 
J cheese I will ride to Austin any time you are willing to tune my bike. Let me know when and I am there!! Weekend though? I just want my bike to run right. Rev smooth and clean, right air fuel ratio at all engine speeds and be reliable. I would like to have someone who knows what the **** they are doing(cause I obviously dont)tune and dyno test it!! Can you??? Let me know!! I also need some long stacks!!!I want all of the power this thing will make!!
 
Hey Supertuner, this is something else I think I have discovered. By having the vacuum control solenoid up open on the flapper side (unplugged hose), at low to mid engine speeds the valve solenoid remains open. #1 Causing an open vaccum leak #2 The throttle body that supplys the vacuum for this valve also contributes to the vacuum source of the Intake Air Pressure sensor. All four throttle bodies tie together for this so if the first throttle body has an open vacuum leak, it will not pull vacuum on this bank. I think this would cause a low vacuum reading at the IAP sensor causing it to raise voltage signal to the ECM making it think that the engine is running faster then it is, forcing it to richen the mixture. Also the fuel pressure regulator ALSO T's into the vacuum line for the IAP sensor so would the Regulator be low on vacuum too causing it to not function properly in the low to mid range engine speeds. IF I UNDERSTAND IT CORRECTLY, THE HIGHEST VACUUM READINGS ARE AT LOW SPEEDS, IS THIS TRUE? AT THE MID AND UPPER RANGE THE TB' ARE PRESSURIZED, NOT VACUUM!!!
 
ZXAlan, I'm no professional tech, but the half bottle of Redline sounds like a bit much. Drain the tank and refill with fresh gas. Easy to try, and it MAY fix the problem. I thought a bottle of Redline cleaner can be used from 16-60 gals, so a half bottle is still more than the highest recommended concentrate. Good luck.
 
It can be a little misleading the easiest way is to hook a set of carb sticks to your bike and go up and down the rpm range and you do have higher vacuum at 2000 than at idle.
 
Yeah, GSXRTURBO, I know, I was going on what a friend of mine did on his BUSA, it totally cleaned his system and valves so I did the same but I think adding too much will make it run shitty. Next time I'll use quarter of a bottle!!
 
Seems like too much to me also.
I have the 15 oz. (450 ml) bottle and it states--SI-1 Complete fuel system cleaner.

The most extreme dosage for quick clean up of injectors is 1 bottle for 20 gallons. So 1/2 bottle doubles that recommendation. It also says-treats up to 100 gallons if used regularly.

I have only used about an ounce per tank it cleaned my valves up in a couple of tanks. There are graduations on the side of the bottle in 10 gallon increments.

Hope you work it out.
 
yes in high doseages it can actually cause problems and build up.you can call them and they are very informative as to the doseages etc.
 
Well its still screwed up!! Still smokes and hestitates but doe not hesitate as bad. I have checked thing with a fine tooth come as far as hoses and connections are concerned. I have not checked fuel pressure or return line flow. When you rev it hard it coughs then revs and smokes blackish grey. it does it just as bad at 0,0,0 and 5,5,5. TPS is set. IAP is hooked up as is vaccum damper. I still have a little fuel in the tank that is way overfilled with Redline but it was smoking before that. that might be causing the grey smoke in the mixture. I would kill for a Air fuel meter, but that would only confirm that it is rich, not how to tune it correctly. No changes I do to the Yosh box make a difference. Hello Lectrons!!!I am tired of this **** !!!if anyone cares to help feel free but if you dont, I dont blame you!!!!
 
ZXALAN...please understand that I mean not to stir any poor feelings, but you sure do mention an incredibly high quantity of things you have found wrong with your bike. Has it ever occurred to you that finding out how/who
made all this stuff wrong might lead you to some conclusions? Just a thought and trying to help you buddy.
 
ZX flush the fuel out of your bike.replace the plugs and see what happens. Start with the yosh box to factory specs or if you can get another ECU from another Busa for a couple of minutes to make sure yours is not screwed.
 
Hey guys, I think found something! After studying the manual I realized that I did not remember what I had done with the vacuum hose to the air control valve(flapper) I remembered pluging one for the pair valve when I removed it but after looking through my bike I found the hose hiding on top of the generator case. It was still connected to the control solenoid but the flapper side was open!!! I pulled the hose, put a cap on the port on the solenoid and now the bike runs much much smoother. I still need to remap because I returned it to stock settings to try to lean it. I have not revved it hard to see if it is still smoking because I had to get back to work but I know it runs much smoother and does not seem to hesitate near as bad. DO YOU GUYS THINK THIS MAY BE MY RICH PROBLEM? NOW CAN I REMAP IT TO 5,5,5 AND 11:00? I am going to after work today so let me know what you all think!! Thanks Guys!!! Good guess JCHEESE!!
 
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