flushing clutch reservoir

[OB_Bob]

Sometimes simple things can become headaches.
Thought I would do a quick 15-20 minute flush of the clutch reservoir since mine was very dark after 2700 miles.
Simple right? Not for me. Took the left fairing off and began bleeding the fluid out. Once most of the reservoir was empty I went to loosen the phillips screws in the cap. Stripped the left one!! Used a snap on screwdriver and was being as careful as I could, but it was so damn tight. Probably a strong guy in Japan during asssembly with torque fever.
Anyway, now the screw is stripped my reservoir is empty and its 85 degrees and sunny. Had to drill the countersunk head off the screw first with a 1/4" drill. Then a 5/64" drill bit through the center of what was left of this shitty liitle screw,so i could use an easy out. Finally, got it after 1/2 hour more of screwing around.
One good thing that resulted is I placed three small pieces of black tape on the wind screen, as suggested on this site, and my screen BUZZ is GONE. "Peaceful speed" as Dirty Pete calls it.
Bob

 

[OB_Dirty Pete]

I got a sympathetic headache reading your post, Bob.

NOTHING is ever easy.

 

[OB_RobBase]

One thing I found out the hard way, several times I might add, is that whenever you need to remove a phillips head screw on a bike, first use the correct size screwdriver and apply a reasonable amount of torque. If it doesnt give, STOP and get out the trusty impact driver. If the part is fragile and cant handle a hammer blow sometimes the extra size of the phillips bits and the mass of the driver is enough to loosen the screw. If and when you do remove the screw, when you put it back put a little anti-sieze compound on it.

 

[OB_Gary]

One other tip. Dip the tip of the screwdriver in Commet It makes it GRIP like you wouldn't believe. Sears sells a product that does the same thing, but Commet works.

 

[OB_Dirty Pete]

Phillips screws are a pain. They won't handle reasonable torque application without stripping their screwhead sockets unless you go to all the trouble RobBase has pointed out. Plus there are too many Phillips screwhead styles, with pointed sockets and blunt sockets added to the usual size range.

Why don't bike makers go to Robertson, Allen or Torx screwheads across the board?

If you look at wood screws and metal screws, the industry standard moved away from those useless slot screws years ago to almost universal use of Robertson.

I guess I'm just pissing into the wind here.

 

[OB_Falconer]

Naaah, Dirty Pete, you're not pissing into the wind, it's just that for high-production assemblies, nothing is faster to install than a Phillips-head type screw. At the factory, they've got exactly the right drive bit for the screw, and a $1500 torque-limited screwdriver to assemble it so _they_ don't have problems with stripping.

When I'm desiging a new product I always use Torx drive screws for anything small, but since they're only available from Camcar, which isn't much into metric, the choice of fasteners (and the price relative to more common fastener types) is somewhat limiting.

<<<If you look at wood screws and metal screws, the industry standard moved away from those useless slot screws years ago to almost universal use of Robertson.>>>

Are you referring to Robertson square-drive fasteners? I haven't seen one of those in a new design in years and years and _years_. What industry is almost universally using these?

-- Falconer

[This message has been edited by Falconer (edited 06 September 1999).]

 

[OB_ducmanic]

Pete,
Are the "Robertson" screws your refering
to what's refered to here as "Flat Head Allen Screws"? I don't believe we design things any differently here in "So Cal" than you do in
the great north. We dont have "Robertson Screws" here-Am i missing some kind fo dry joke? I made sure i had the right phillips
screwdriver when i changed my clutch fluid as
i was afraid of this happening. The screws were not too tight. Strangly though my drain plug was loose from the factory. I wired the front axle pinch bolts and drain plug. Also did the radiator cap. These and the calliper
bolts are the most failure prone areas on our Bussa's. Oh well, gotta go tune in-

ducmanic
Los Angeles

[This message has been edited by ducmanic (edited 07 September 1999).]

 

[OB_Dirty Pete]

I guess Robertson is a local name for them. I'm referring to the square socketed screws - three sizes #1, #2 & #3.

No one uses them for machine or vehicle construction, they are the "industry standard" in the construction industry. For wood and metal screws.

Poor example I guess, although that type of screw is a lot more effective than Phillips. Like Torx and Allen screws, a Robertson screw will not only take a lot of torque without stripping, but the screw will "plug" onto your driver's bit so you don't have to use two hands.

So Falconer, Phillips screws are used basically for the convenience of the factory at assembly time. Why am I surprised?

 

[OB_Tom Mitchell]

I ran into the same fluid cover screw problem on an RF900R, although I stopped before it was totally stripped and took it to the dealer. One of the techs said that it happens all of the time and brought out a cheap J.C. Whitney type impact nut loosener with a phillips head attached. One tiny tap and the screw immediately came loose. This tool is now a permanent fixture in the old tool chest.