First gen motor/clutch identification

[James Shabnow]

I bought a busa a few years back and it is due for a clutch. The vin says the bike is an 01 but the guy I bought it from said the motor is newer. I am going to put oem back in but the part numbers change in 04. Who can tell me how to Identify which clutch to buy? Who knows the difference in the 99-03 clutch pack vs the 04-07 clutch pack?

 

[Mr Brown]

Does it have the two thin steels in it now?

 

[James Shabnow]

Does it have the two thin steels in it now?

I don't have it apart? The difference is in the steel plates? I want to order before I disassemble if I can. Thanks for your time..

 

[Mr Brown]

Tell whoever you're buying the clutch from that you need an 02+ clutch plate setup for an 01.

 

[James Shabnow]

Tell whoever you're buying the clutch from that you need an 02+ clutch plate setup for an 01.

My problem is, I don't think the motor is an 01. So if I get it for an 01 and the motor is an 04 will it still work?

 

[Bumblebee]

The motor has a VIN on it as well...perhaps that may assist in finding out which year it is.

 

[Mr Brown]

My problem is, I don't think the motor is an 01. So if I get it for an 01 and the motor is an 04 will it still work?

Then, it seems you'll need to either buy and hope, or pull it apart and see what you got before you buy.
Why are you changing the clutch?

 

[rubbersidedown]

James...order both. But first make sure they have no "restocking charge" install the one you need,return the other. No harm,no foul. Some other Busa owner will be lucky in that the parts will be on the shelf when they need it.(maybe even within days,it is riding season) Shop gets 2 satisfied customers for the price of one.Even ask the shop if thats cool if you want.
Win Win Win.
Rubb.

 

[James Shabnow]

Then, it seems you'll need to either buy and hope, or pull it apart and see what you got before you buy.
Why are you changing the clutch?

Bike sat for a few years. I bougnt it and changed all the fluids and went riding. It worked good for 50-60 miles then it started to slip pretty bad when accelerating . Rode it home and flushed the system again and it last a couple rides. Then it started again. Rode it home nicely. It seemed to only slip above 5k but it was prob slipping the whole time. Pulled the master apart and rebuilt it. Found some gelled fluid in there and figure it was restricting return flow. Put on a new steel braided hose. Bled it and went for a ride today. It felt great when the ride started and as the day went on the engagement was getting further out. Now there is very little lever movement before disengaging.

 

[James Shabnow]

So I am going with the clutch was ruined when it was slipping

 

[rubbersidedown]

So I am going with the clutch was ruined when it was slipping

Could just be glazed. Fresh oil will help,could de-glaze the steels,save a few bucks.
Some drag racers call it "shuffling the deck." A little re and re between races.
Might just be a "Canadian Thing" IDK.
Rubb.

 

[rubbersidedown]

If you go new James...some believe in soaking the frictions in oil over night/24 hours....meh.
I never have.

Also,new springs would be good. Stiffer if ya want. Also,don't 4get to order the gasket.
Rubb.

 

[Mr Brown]

Bike sat for a few years. I bougnt it and changed all the fluids and went riding. It worked good for 50-60 miles then it started to slip pretty bad when accelerating . Rode it home and flushed the system again and it last a couple rides. Then it started again. Rode it home nicely. It seemed to only slip above 5k but it was prob slipping the whole time. Pulled the master apart and rebuilt it. Found some gelled fluid in there and figure it was restricting return flow. Put on a new steel braided hose. Bled it and went for a ride today. It felt great when the ride started and as the day went on the engagement was getting further out. Now there is very little lever movement before disengaging.

So I am going with the clutch was ruined when it was slipping

Makes sense. It's not a big deal to take them out, inspect and replace them. You'll lose some oil, and dental picks will help immensely. Remember the order in which they came out so you can put them back in the same way. As mentioned if you're putting new fibers in, soak them, but they only need about an hour or so. Longer won't hurt, but it's not necessary.

 

[James Shabnow]

Makes sense. It's not a big deal to take them out, inspect and replace them. You'll lose some oil, and dental picks will help immensely. Remember the order in which they came out so you can put them back in the same way. As mentioned if you're putting new fibers in, soak them, but they only need about an hour or so. Longer won't hurt, but it's not necessary.

This is what is in there. I believe the 2 steel rings you referred to is there on the left. The disk are definitely blued. Would you agree this is the newer clutch pack.

Also what do you think about the carpenter clutch mod ring and springs since its part anyway?

 

[Mr Brown]

That is the newer style. For stock power street riding there's no need for heavier springs, and using them can crack your slave support cover. A clutch mod is a personal preference thing, depending on the kind of riding you do. If you find yourself taking off hard often and want to make it smoother, go for it.

 

[Mr Brown]

Blued isn't as much of an issue as glazed. And yes, those are the steels I was referring to.

 

[Mr Brown]

It's time for a clutch pack. Some of those fibers are junk.

 

[Berlin Germany]

(...) and it is due for a clutch. (...)

why do you think so?

does the clutch "slide" ?

when yes
1st - messure the thickness of the entire clutch pack (for control) /
==> the abs. minimum is : 50.5 mm or 1.989"
2nd - messure the thickness of each driven plates (not the steels) and look the min. th in the manual
you better do all measurement in [mm] but not in [inch] - inch is depending at your mess. tool possibly a little bit inaccurate compared to mm
example :
1.980" = 50.29 mm / 1.985" = 50.42 mm / 1.988" = 50.49 mm / 1.989" = 50.52 mm

even the min th of all driven plates alone is better than manual says AND the clutch slides instead of this
do 1st the small (& cheap) repair
by replacing only one thin driven (3.0mm) and one thin (2.3mm) steel by the thicker ones
a. 21451-24F 00 - 3,8 mm
b. 21441-24F 10 - 3,8 mm
then try again.

does the clutch "stutter" ?
look for "black marks" at the steels - if they have, change all the steels.

the entire clutch is in principle changeable between ´99-´01 and ´02-´07
for exact little differences compare my two microfiches
´99-´01
and
´02-´03 (-´07)

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

why do you think so?

does the clutch "slide" ?

when yes
1st - messure the thickness of the entire clutch pack (for control) /
==> the abs. minimum is : 50.5 mm or 1.989"
2nd - messure the thickness of each driven plates (not the steels) and look the min. th in the manual
you better do all measurement in [mm] but not in [inch] - inch is depending at your mess. tool possibly a little bit inaccurate compared to mm
example :
1.980" = 50.29 mm / 1.985" = 50.42 mm / 1.988" = 50.49 mm / 1.989" = 50.52 mm

even the min th of all driven plates alone is better than manual says AND the clutch slides instead of this
do 1st the small (& cheap) repair
by replacing only one thin driven (3.0mm) and one thin (2.3mm) steel by the thicker ones
a. 21451-24F 00 - 3,8 mm
b. 21441-24F 10 - 3,8 mm
then try again.

does the clutch "stutter" ?
look for "black marks" at the steels - if they have, change all the steels.

the entire clutch is in principle changeable between ´99-´01 and ´02-´07
for exact little differences compare my two microfiches
´99-´01
and
´02-´03 (-´07)

It would be worth it to me to just buy a new OEM clutch pack from Amazon for $120 instead of removing and reinstalling it at least twice in order to perform all those measurements. BTW does slide mean what we mean by slip?

 

[Berlin Germany]

yes slip - i didn´t remember that word