First Busa And Could Use Some Advice.

Hermbo29

Hermbo29

Registered
Love the site and this is my first post. I got my hands on a 03 busa about 5 moths ago and have leaned and done a lot on my own but any advice would greatly be accepted.
I've done a full tune up/ fresh plugs , oil, tires , k&n filter , yoshi rs3 that I cut down to 12" and gutted the baffles out of the mid pipes, small airbox mod, heat shield the airbox , double bubble wind screen , also have a set of 2 bro's VALE m2 shortys that I haven't tried out yet and a PC3 USB that's I've been learning and playing with. I've done a lot of trial and research and it's coming along great. I got the bike completely stock and it was neglected but lucky no major wear.
The issue I'm having is I've tried the generic maps and even with the closest maps I can find make my bike run like poop. I've got it to run actually good with the stock map and played with a few of the negative numbers and bumped them up just a point or 2. I live in nm and my elevation is 4800 ft! Could that be the reason it runs horrible with the generic maps? Also I notice it's running a little rich. I plan on a custom map but I want to do my sprockets and chains before I do the map. Any maps you guys can help me with until then? Also any other mods that would help would be outstanding.
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I wouldnt play around that much with the pc3 if your not sure of what your doing with it. As far as the map is concerned i dont think a generic map will do much good. Id try pulling the pc3 off and see if the map thats in the ecu is set correctly to stock. It would probably run a lot better that way anyway. If you find a good tuner he can tune by just using the ecu without the pc3 but a custom tune is a good idea especially if the map on the ecu isnt stock from the factory. stock it should get around 155hp. with a full tune you might get close to 170hp but there are a lot of people here with much greater knowledge than me on the subject. Other than that, welcome and enjoy. !!!!!!!!!!!!
 
jch364 said:
I wouldnt play around that much with the pc3 if your not sure of what your doing with it. As far as the map is concerned i dont think a generic map will do much good. Id try pulling the pc3 off and see if the map thats in the ecu is set correctly to stock. It would probably run a lot better that way anyway. If you find a good tuner he can tune by just using the ecu without the pc3 but a custom tune is a good idea especially if the map on the ecu isnt stock from the factory. stock it should get around 155hp. with a full tune you might get close to 170hp but there are a lot of people here with much greater knowledge than me on the subject. Other than that, welcome and enjoy. !!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response, I'll give your advice a shot, yeah I agree 100% about not playing to much with it. The best results I've got was putting it back to a stock map that was available from the pc website, I did have flat spots and that's where bumping a number up here and there helped and got rid of it around the 3500 range. I've also set the throttle correctly as well. I've thought about just taking it out completely and going with a 5. Do you know if the mods I have listed would make me run lean? Also what would you think about the butterfly mod? I'm not looking to have a race bike but I would like to have that smooth rev range without surging or flat spots in the powerband
 
I dont think a pc5 will yeild you any better results than a pc3 for a g1 busa. Of course I am only going off some of what I have read on the org. Im sure someone with lots of knowledge on the subject will come along soon and guide you properly in that regard. For me I would take out the pair valve and put block off plates in its place if you have not already. I suppose that it might run a little lean as I suspect more are is coming in but you mentioned it is running a little rich already. Im not sure of the altitude issue. Anything that allows for more air flow will change it and the mods you spoke of are typical. Ive done them as well. I learned the hard way to go with a good set of pipes and a good tune. I know if you buy a brock exhaust he will include a street map for your bike for the pc3. Its a good map as far as I have ever been told. I did not remove my butterfly valves and dont know of anyone who has so im not sure if it is really a good idea. I have a feeling it would not be benificial. I will tell you this. For mine when I went to a 1397 I put a brock intake cam in. had adjustable cam sprockets and manual cam chain tensioner. when my friend degreed the cams and put it on the dyno he tuned it by ecu. we got 195hp with 120pds of torque. I have yet to deck the head and have it port and polished. that might add another 15 or so i think. From stock I think the cheapest way to go is to just get a really good tuner and let him do it up. If your wanting to make a race bike like 1/4 mile there are so many things to do with the motor its almost endless. How many miles are on the bike right now?
 
Base maps are junk.
Best thing you can do it is have it dyno tuned, either with the PC, or without. Without, the tuner will use Ecu Editor or Ecu unleashed. A PC3 or 5 isn't going to matter.
Every bike is different, and the high elevation isn't helping the situation, as you're lean to start with.
You mentioned a "butterfly mod". I assume you are talking about removing the secondary throttle plates like alot of Suzuki and kawasaki's have. Gen1 Busas don't have those, so it can't be done.
Without a dyno tune, it'll probably run a little worse with the 2bros pipes, as there will be even less back pressure with those than the Yoshis. Dyno tune with either, as it won't matter.
 
You haven't really done anything to worry about the tune with that bike at this point. If you pull the PC it will probably run better with what the factory gave you. These bikes tend to run a little fat and that's to prevent the motor from becoming a grenade. The IAP should take care of altitude changes from memory. No blade mod on the Gen I that I'm aware of some racers pull the secondary blades on the Gen II but you can also tweek the ECU to give better performance in that area, but you have a Gen I so it doesn't matter.

Welcome to the oRg
 
Thanks for all the responses ! You guys are awesome . I think I might try putting the stock map back and see what she runs like. I also think I might just end up doing the marble mod too even though I don't have any popping on deceleration. The bike has 30k on it. I think this upcoming fall I'm going to go have the top end redone just to do it. It doesn't feel like it's worn to bad and no bad smoke or heavy oil consumption , at the most I'll have a puff of black smoke on hard acceleration but i think because it's running rich..she pulls hard threw all gears and I can power wheelie on first second and I weigh 275 so no real feel of power loss either but maybe I wouldn't know if has because this is my first busa... I've owned a few street bikes but this is the first one I've ever really done mods on so it's definitely a learning experience but completely satisfying. Great page and thanks for the warm welcome and tips. What would anyone think about keeping the 17t in the front and going up 3 in the rear since I gotta do my chain and sprockets anyways soon? I'm not worried about loosing a little off the top but will it be noticeable on the low and mid range ? I like that hard acceleration, not like the busa doesn't have it already though lol!
 
+3 on the rear sprocket will definitely increase your acceleration. My concern would be it will also increase your highway RPM, not sure by how much or if that would make a difference to you.
 
I had changed my sprockets before and I think it was one down in front and 2 up in the back. great down low but limits top end and the rpm at highway was I think about 1k higher maybe..? hard to remember.
 
nosbig said:
+3 on the rear sprocket will definitely increase your acceleration. My concern would be it will also increase your highway RPM, not sure by how much or if that would make a difference to you.
Click to expand...

A +3 rear sprocket will only put the rpm's up around 600.
I've put them on every bike I've ever owned(as well as many other combos).
I'de definately get one.
 
Look into getting youe ecu flashed.
Boosted Cycle Performance is in Texas and will get your ecu back to you quick.
Only around $50, and dollar for dollar, you won't find anything that will noticeably increase performance so much.

As for the top end, I wouldn't bother touching it.
You can check the valves, but I'de bet they are all in spec. Put another 30k on the bike...and I'll bet they are all still in spec.
There are quite a few bikes here with well over 100k miles on them and they have zero issues.
If you're 275lbs and can still power wheelie 1st and 2nd, then it sounds like you have a good running engine.
And again, get that +3 rear sprocket. The overall gearing of a -1 front vs. a +3 rear is pretty close. But, the -1 front slightly lengthens your wheelbase, where as the +3 rear will slighty shorten the wheelbase. Meaning, the +3 rear will make it a little better for hard cornering(as the bike is shorter), and it will also be a little more wheelie happy.
 
jch364 said:
btw getting the front sprocket off will require the incredible hulk ... just saying:mad:
Click to expand...

Lol, yeah, sometimes they are defiantely hard to get off, where others come right off easily.

Always have the transmission in neutral(so not to damage it), and the chain must be on.
Use an impact to get it off if you have one(not to put it back on). Otherwise, you can sit on the bike, in neutral, hold the rear brake, and use a long breaker bar(slide a pipe over for more leverage if needed).
At 275lbs, the OP sounds like a big enough dude to break it loose without an impact.
Front sprocket nut and rear axle nut are 36mm
 
sixpack577 said:
Look into getting youe ecu flashed.
Boosted Cycle Performance is in Texas and will get your ecu back to you quick.
Only around $50, and dollar for dollar, you won't find anything that will noticeably increase performance so much.

As for the top end, I wouldn't bother touching it.
You can check the valves, but I'de bet they are all in spec. Put another 30k on the bike...and I'll bet they are all still in spec.
There are quite a few bikes here with well over 100k miles on them and they have zero issues.
If you're 275lbs and can still power wheelie 1st and 2nd, then it sounds like you have a good running engine.
And again, get that +3 rear sprocket. The overall gearing of a -1 front vs. a +3 rear is pretty close. But, the -1 front slightly lengthens your wheelbase, where as the +3 rear will slighty shorten the wheelbase. Meaning, the +3 rear will make it a little better for hard cornering(as the bike is shorter), and it will also be a little more wheelie happy.
Click to expand...
sixpack577 said:
Lol, yeah, sometimes they are defiantely hard to get off, where others come right off easily.

Always have the transmission in neutral(so not to damage it), and the chain must be on.
Use an impact to get it off if you have one(not to put it back on). Otherwise, you can sit on the bike, in neutral, hold the rear brake, and use a long breaker bar(slide a pipe over for more leverage if needed).
At 275lbs, the OP sounds like a big enough dude to break it loose without an impact.
Front sprocket nut and rear axle nut are 36mm
Click to expand...
Good to know about not leaving it in gear! I'll have my daughter hold the break lol!
 
nosbig said:
+3 on the rear sprocket will definitely increase your acceleration. My concern would be it will also increase your highway RPM, not sure by how much or if that would make a difference to you.
Click to expand...
I'm not to worried about a little higher rom, screw the mileage lol
 
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