FI Light

Catfish

Registered
I have a full Yosh TRS exhaust and a PC that was on the bike when I purchased it. The FI light popped on and I was wondering was it due to me removing the battery so that I could charge it. Does the PC lose it map when the battery is removed. The scenario went as follows:

Rode for over an hour and stopped for a break.
Tried to restart bike and it acted like it didn't want to start. Battery???
Kept turning it over and it finally started, but the FI light was blinking.
Bike rode like normal, no hesitation, backfiring, etc...
Rode for another hour, got home, shut bike down, and restarted it several times with no problem. FI light went out.

The guy I purchased the bike from told me he used a map from the Yosh TRC pipe. Do I need a custom map done to eliminate the scenario or is it something else wrong with the bike? Any input is greatly appreciated.
 
no .. there is a little plug u can jumper with apaperclip the next time its acting up that will give u a code then you will no exaclty whats wrong with it. It is located in the reaf of bike under seat area.
 
Map should still be located internal to the PC, but it does get lost from time to time. :whistle: If the FI light did not stay on and you weren't able to get a code it would be tough to stay, but odds are it was for the battery. Mine has done that when I have to try to start multiple times.
 
So using a paper clip for a jumper in the spot under the seat will give me a specific code? FI popped up where the clock is displayed. Would you suggest a custom map? The bike rode fine, but would a custom map make much of a difference?
 
Are busas known for having starting issues? I'm coming off an 06 G1K and I never had this problem before.
 
So using a paper clip for a jumper in the spot under the seat will give me a specific code? FI popped up where the clock is displayed. Would you suggest a custom map? The bike rode fine, but would a custom map make much of a difference?

Yes, if you jump that switch it puts you in dealer mode and allows you to determine the problem. If your bike was running fine I wouldn't worry about a custom map, but since each bike is different a custom map may help to remove a/f problems or rich/lean conditions specific to it.
 
Thanks for the info. Can anybody tell me what pins need to be jumpered to get the code. Also, how would I determine if my bike is running lean? I'm only assuming that it's not running rich because I don't smell any gas. The headers are turning a purplish color. Is that a sign of running lean?
 
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