FI Light/Dealer Mode/Service Manual 2014

[Kripley]

On the ride home today my FI light came on and the bike started to act up (jerking, electrical problems). I pulled over, turned the bike off for roughly 30 seconds, then tried to start it back up again. It didn't want to start, as if the battery was low/almost dead. I waited around 5 minutes and tried again. Started up and ran fine (with no FI light), so I tried to make my way home where I could check it out. After about 2 miles it happened again. Thankfully this was just a few houses down from mine though, so I coasted it the rest of the way.

I have the service manual for my 2008, which has worked for everything Ive done in the past for my 2014, but this seems to be an exception. The pictures in the book do not match whats under the seat for my 2014 (2008 has 1 white connector on the right side, while the 2014 has 2 white connectors, neither of which match the one from the 2008). Everything I have been able to find online for this has to do with the 2008 or gen1's, but nothing for the 2014. This is the first time Ive needed to check a code for either of the bikes, so its all new to me, and I am not sure what the differences from the 2008 to the 2014 are for this. If someone can help explain what is needed for 2014, or knows where I could get a pdf of the service manual for the 2014 to look this up, it would be appreciated.

Edit: The rubber red cap that goes over the positive end of the battery has already been slightly melted (warped and blackened). Not all of it, but the small portion thats sitting directly on top of and touching the screw that holds all the pieces together. And there was no signs of this roughly 2 weeks ago when I last had the seat off.

 

[Mr Brown]

2008-current are largely the same, the diagnostic plug should be in the same place.
ECUs don't store fi codes on these bikes, but I think you've already identified your issue. Something is touching your battery through the positive terminal cover. Find that and you're well on the way to solving the problem.

 

[Kripley]

2008-current are largely the same, the diagnostic plug should be in the same place.

I think whats getting me the most is I am not sure which plug I should be using for this because there are 2 in the spot that the 2008 only has the 1. When comparing them to what others have shown online as far as how to read the code, they both have attributes to what Ive been seeing/reading. Some pictures show the person using what looks like the smaller plug but then when they describe the coloring of the wires that should be going to that plug, they match 2 of the wires going to the larger plug (black+white, and red+white).. Im trying to be a lot more do-it-yourself on my bikes to learn more about them, but at the same time don't want to end up making things worse for myself by using the wrong one.

Here is a picture of the 2 connectors I have been talking about with the caps removed if this helps.

I wasn't able to get a clear picture of the wires leading into each but:
Smaller Plug = 2 wires
1) Solid Orange
2) Black + White
Larger Plug = 4 wires
1) Black + White
2) Red + White
3) Orange + White
4) Solid Grey
(And if it is the larger, which 2 am I supposed to be connecting with a wire/paperclip to get the reading?)

Also since I was already taking pictures, I felt I would disconnect the positive terminal for the battery to show the melting and how it matched the screw holding everything down. And in doing so, found nothing out of the ordinary around the terminal (other than the cap).

And as a side note: For this specific battery, the terminal does not match up with the metal clip that usually goes over it to hold everything in place. So to compensate for it, they added in washers to fill the gap, which raises the top of the screw higher than all the previous batteries Ive had. I just now straightened out the bent portion of the clip so that it will sit more flush with the terminal and not need the washers. Not sure if this will help, but should hopefully at least provide a little more of a gap between the rubber cap and the screw itself if nothing else.

 

[Mr Brown]

@c10 can tell you which plug and how to jump it, but if my memory serves me correctly it's the one in the bottom right of the picture.
Look at whatever sits on top of your battery, (seat pan?) and make sure there's no exposed metal. Something caused that to melt....

 

[Bumblebee]

There's a piece in this thread which will help you...

Throwing FI light 200 miles after Dyno tune | Gen 2 Busa Information

Took my bike to get tuned Thursday and now im dead in the water. Rode all day yesterday with no problems and never once over 7000 rpm( had girlfriend riding her bike along side me) When I went to go out later the bike started and shut off after about 10 seconds. Started it again and same thing...

www.hayabusa.org

 

[c10]

I have never had to read a trouble code on my 2014. I do own a direct plug in switch my brother who owns a 2015 bought me as a gift years ago . Carry it on the bike while on road trips if I need it . My brother bought them after he had a FI light from a broke clutch switch.

 

[c10]

Link. looks like the larger plug .

Suzuki Dealer Mode Switch Fi Error Code SDS Light An400 650 Burgman Other K106 B for sale online | eBay

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[Kripley]

Link. looks like the larger plug .

Suzuki Dealer Mode Switch Fi Error Code SDS Light An400 650 Burgman Other K106 B for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Suzuki Dealer Mode Switch Fi Error Code SDS Light An400 650 Burgman Other K106 B at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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I feel like an idiot now for not even thinking about looking up the tool that is actually meant for this to see what the connecting end piece looked like.. Though that specific one looks like it was designed for the '08 even though it still fits other models, as that connecting piece looks exactly like the plug does for the '08. But that plug doesn't look the same anymore for the '14, which is what was throwing me off so much.

None the less, thanks to your link, @Mr Brown, @Yellow09, and quite a bit more digging I feel confident that it is the larger plug as well. I wasn't able to find an exact answer, but piecing together parts of the stuff I was able to come across, I believe thats it, and that the two wires that need to be connected are the white+red and the black+white. Which for anyone else that may stumble across this with the same concerns, should be on the very end, and next to each other (the 2 on the far right end - top and bottom - in my picture). But I will be trying it out in the morning to see if I can get the code for the issue and hopefully fix it over the weekend; but thanks again for the help/suggestions.

As far as what is sitting on top of, and most likely touching, the battery cover is the cushioning from my seat (based on the slight indentations in the foam), and the only other thing close would be the hard plastic holding the cushioning in place. No other material to be found in the area, so I still have no clue what it could have been. Im definitely going to keep an eye on it though, now that the top piece is flush and not needing the washers. Gonna take the seat off to check every time I get home for the foreseeable future to see if it worsens, and just go from there I guess.

 

[Dopey]

I feel like an idiot now for not even thinking about looking up the tool that is actually meant for this to see what the connecting end piece looked like.. Though that specific one looks like it was designed for the '08 even though it still fits other models, as that connecting piece looks exactly like the plug does for the '08. But that plug doesn't look the same anymore for the '14, which is what was throwing me off so much.

None the less, thanks to your link, @Mr Brown, @Yellow09, and quite a bit more digging I feel confident that it is the larger plug as well. I wasn't able to find an exact answer, but piecing together parts of the stuff I was able to come across, I believe thats it, and that the two wires that need to be connected are the white+red and the black+white. Which for anyone else that may stumble across this with the same concerns, should be on the very end, and next to each other (the 2 on the far right end - top and bottom - in my picture). But I will be trying it out in the morning to see if I can get the code for the issue and hopefully fix it over the weekend; but thanks again for the help/suggestions.

As far as what is sitting on top of, and most likely touching, the battery cover is the cushioning from my seat (based on the slight indentations in the foam), and the only other thing close would be the hard plastic holding the cushioning in place. No other material to be found in the area, so I still have no clue what it could have been. Im definitely going to keep an eye on it though, now that the top piece is flush and not needing the washers. Gonna take the seat off to check every time I get home for the foreseeable future to see if it worsens, and just go from there I guess.

With that cap melted like and you not seeing anything for it to be grounding out on and if the connection was tight I would check the charging system before riding anywhere. Maybe possible it's over charging and heated that cable, also look over any wires coming off the positive terminal and make sure none have rubbed thru and grounding out.

 

[c10]

Battery issue is most likely the replacement battery is slightly taller than oem . It will contact the seat pan . I run a Shori battery that is taller ,but made my own deeper battery box .

 

[Kiwi Rider]

With that cap melted like and you not seeing anything for it to be grounding out on and if the connection was tight I would check the charging system before riding anywhere. Maybe possible it's over charging and heated that cable, also look over any wires coming off the positive terminal and make sure none have rubbed thru and grounding out.

I concur with Dopey on this... looks to me like heat build up due to excessive charge rate to battery.
Check the voltage at the battery while motor running, most likely way more than 15v, this will heat the battery terminals and will be the cause of the FI light coming on and also the slow cranking/dead battery symptoms when trying to restart it, as you described.
I’d be looking at the voltage reg/rectifier as the most likely cause, Busa electrical systems do not tolerate excessive voltage at all. The fuel injection system has specific voltage parameters it works within, and when the charge rate is through the roof, will act exactly as you described in the first post.

 

[Kripley]

With that cap melted like and you not seeing anything for it to be grounding out on and if the connection was tight I would check the charging system before riding anywhere. Maybe possible it's over charging and heated that cable, also look over any wires coming off the positive terminal and make sure none have rubbed thru and grounding out.

Not quite sure why I didn't mention it, but I did this last night just before modifying the top piece down to make everything flush to lower the height of the screw on the battery, but everything came back normal. Battery was good at rest, on the initial start up, and while running. Pushed it up to 7000 rpms, and got a top reading of 14-14.5 (book says the range is 13-15.5 if Im remembering right). So hopefully the issue is just being too tall, like @c10 mentioned, and lowering the screw was all thats needed. Otherwise I think the next step is a new, shorter battery to see if the problem persists. Just seems kind of weird that Ive had the battery for a little over a year, and this is all just starting now. I would have expected it much sooner if the height was the problem.

But it was the correct set up to grab the FI codes, and I got the C00 reading that I was expecting since it only occurred while riding. Spliced some stuff together so that I could leave a wire in though, so that if the issue happens again, I will be able to see the proper code. Im just about to take it out now and do circles around my block for 10-20 minutes to see what happens.

 

[Berlin Germany]

as far as I know and as far as I understand the circuit diagrams :

at gen2 "FI" codes should be shown
by connecting grey and black/white wires in the 6-point connector - nothing else does the expensive suzuki-tool

(at gen1 connect white/red and black/white wires in the 4-point connector)

 

[Kripley]

as far as I know and as far as I understand the circuit diagrams :

at gen2 "FI" codes should be shown
by connecting grey and black/white wires in the 6-point connector - nothing else does the expensive suzuki-tool

(at gen1 connect white+red and black+white wires in the 4-point connector)

I was able to get the FI code to show up on my '14 by connecting the white+red wire to the black+white wire in the 6-point connecter. But it may not be this way for all gen2's because the set up for the connectors on my '08 vs my '14 are different. The '08 has only 1 white connector (6-point if I am remembering it correctly) under the seat and off to the bikes right side, while the '14 has two connectors in the same location (1 is the small 2 point with a longer cap, while the other is the larger 6 point with a short cap - see first picture).

For the '14 with the 2 connectors, the larger one (6 point) is what I used to get my code. I used a wire to connect the 2 pins that are next to each other on the far right side (top and bottom): one was the white+red wire, and the other was black+white.

Edit: Although the connector set ups are different, I have a service manual for the '08 (but not the '14) and the single connector I mentioned earlier is still where you would pull the FI codes for the '08. I just cant say with 100% certainty that you get them by connecting the same 2 wires as the '14, as I have never checked a code for the '08.