I just purchased 03 Busa, wondering if anybody has converted stock cans to sound better. Can't afford exhaust yet but want a nicer sound.
Welcome to the board!

Dunno about OEM cans... I just swapped the exhaust for an Akrapovic Ti Evolution system w/ CF can... It sounds FINE!
Just weather the storm Playa and wait til u save up enuff loot to get an after market set up. Dont even think about punching holes into your stock cans. Play it smart Pimp dont start half steppn>>>>>>> you purchased the best bike out there so treat her right.
After reading numerous posts on this subject, I decided to give it a try. I carefully ground the welds off the screws on back covers. Drilled 3 7/16 holes between each screw shoulder, for a total of 9 holes in each can. Put it back together with red locktite. Sounds much better, yet not too loud...just throaty. Glad I did it. Don't expect any performance increase, but the sound improvement is worth it.
How about some pics of those wholes. I have an extra set of cans that I'm willing to sacrifice.
I have no pics as I have allready put the cans back together. You can't see the holes when the system is assembled. Actually, other than the welds missing from the screws, you can't tell I did any mods. Except for throaty sound.
I just did the same thing. Sounds pretty good for free. Took 5 min. But i put 3 1/2" holes and 6 5/16 holes in each can . Not too loud. Might make 3 more 1/2" holes in a few weeks.
I converted the cans on my '01 'busa to straight race cans like an aftermarket race slip-on.

It was a lot of work but I'll tell you all how I did it.

First, I ground the bolts on the back and took off the crome tail pipe. Next, I used a dremel with a cut off wheel to trim the rolled edge of the outer can off. When that was done, I slid the insides out...I had to be pretty aggressive to get it out.

When it was out, I cut the packing off of the outside and decided that there was a whole lot too much metal there. The inside of the can has 3 small pipes intersecting 3 larger chambers. The exhaust has to double back going from tiny pipe to large chamber like 3 times.

I decided to keep things simple and torched off the front and rear of the inside part. I then went to my local metal supplier and bought some perforated steel. I was able to get a piece of 2.5" muffler pipe as scrap from a muffler shop and went to work making the sheet of perforated steel round. Once it was more or less cylindrical, I trimmed the excess and clamped it tight. About 100 spot welds with the MIG later and I had a solid tube of perforated steel.

The tricky part was welding the tube to the old parts of the muffler and keeping them straight and lined up so the tail pipe would go on the right way when I was done. I had to cut holes in these pieces to accomodate the 2.5" diameter as well. I put the pieces into the muffler with the tube sandwiched in between. When I was convinced I had it centered (or at least close enough), I tacked them together. I pulled it all out and welded it solid.

After that it was just a matter of wrapping some packing around the tube, and slipping it into the can.

I drilled 3 holes in the rear of each can and put aluminum rivets in to help hold things together. I then put the chrome tail pipe back on and was done.

I'll post some pictures today of the finished product. There's only a few little things that give away the secret.

They sound great. The most rumble at idle I've ever heard out of a Hayabusa.

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fyi me and my buddy did a simular modifacation to the stock cans except we just cut out the end and removed everything inside more performance and sounds real mean but word of warning dyno it and was running way lean more so at lower rpm a stock map can only change slight modifaction this extreme if don't want troubles get a power comander to compinsate or you will regret it later but it does sound bad ass
good luck
Just a note..........Anyone wanting to play with their exhaust???

If you want to find some perforated material???

Look at used air filters from heavy equipment.ie loaders,cats,hoes.

They are either stainless,or heat treated aluminum. You can wrap as much as you like. Start with the whole thing rolled up. Then remove a few inches until the sound is right for you.

I have used these on my bikes for years. Free,easy,and cheap.

The Power Comander is a good idea to reset the carbs.
Any holes other than exit port out the back is basically considered a LEAK! Ever have an older car that developed a small leak in the exhaust somewhere from rot? Sounded "throaty" and kinda cool but in actuality, you lost performance....most notably, throttle response. The Bus is already running a bit lean stock for emission purposes, so your actually making it WORSE. This is what your willingly doing to the bike with this "mod". Dont bother! Save your pennies and do the pipe/PC/pair mod thing the RIGHT way! And make sure to do ALL 3 OR NONE AT ALL...they all work hand in hand!! Shop the internet well enough and get your own hands a little dirty, and its a lot cheaper than you might have expected....
Just completed this mod and took some pics along the way. But I dont know how to attavh the link....