Engine Oil Flush

hayabusaboy

Registered
Guys,
My busa has just rolled over 30,000 miles due an Oil change. I have noticed recently that on the last change the oil only stayed honey coloured for a few miles before turning black again. I want to give it a good flush through to get rid of all the old stuff.
My thoughts were to drain the old stuff and fit a new filter, fill it with cheap mineral oil (cheaper than using the normal oil), give her a good blast, drain the mineral oil and refit another new filter and fill with the usual MOTO semi-synthetic. Will this be safe to do?
Any advice is much appreciated!
 
It also says:

AMSOIL Engine Flush Procedure

* Flush diesel or gasoline car or truck engines that have over 30,000 miles of petroleum oil use (do not flush small engines such as hybrids, motorcycles or smaller engines).
 
If you read the procedure, they are talking about using their flushing solution. The poster is talking about a real quick oil change without any flushing solution. He can't hurt his bike by simply changing the oil right away.
 
Thanks guys. Wasnt going to use a flushing solution, just wanted to whack some mineral oil in there for a quick thrash to mix it all up then change for my normal MOTOL Oil to make sure all the old crap is gone. Using the mineral oil for purely for economy reasons as MOTOL semi in the UK is nearly £40!
 
Hi, I use Motul Engine Clean every 2nd all change. Works a treat!

See link

for further details.:thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
Hi all, yes i also uses Motul engin flush when i service my Busa. 55 000km on the clock. Works 100%. Check with your local motorcycle dealer to supply you with the right stuff.Motul engin flush is designed to use on motorcycles, not all engin flushes are designed to do so.
Just a small tip, when you do use engin flush and the bike idle for 15min, keep the rpm to 2000. Oil really starts to get very thin and you loose oil pressure fast at that time of point. By keeping the rpm up a little bit helps to keep the oil pressure to give or take between 0.5 to 0.8bar. Enough pressure to take you through cleaning process.
 
Heyabusaboy
Guys,
My busa has just rolled over 30,000 miles due an Oil change. I have noticed recently that on the last change the oil only stayed honey coloured for a few miles before turning black again. I want to give it a good flush through to get rid of all the old stuff.
My thoughts were to drain the old stuff and fit a new filter, fill it with cheap mineral oil (cheaper than using the normal oil), give her a good blast, drain the mineral oil and refit another new filter and fill with the usual MOTO semi-synthetic. Will this be safe to do?
Any advice is much appreciated!
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I have found over the years that adding a small amount (like 20%) of synthetic to your OLD oil 30 miles or so before you change the oil will dissolve the buildup in the crevices and drain out with the old oil and the Synthetic "sticks" to the metal causing the new oil to be more pure synthetic. (otherwise your first oil change to full synthetic will have a little dino in it.) Synthetic by nature eats carbon deposits leaving the lands etc clean. If full you may need to drain a bit out to do this.
They say use the motorcycle 10-40 in it but in kaws and zooks i use signature series and never had a clutch issue.
Here is one thing that is fact and no opine, I have done oil analysis on old oil in various cars and always find 10% of the metal in Amsoil compared to Dino oil. Keep in mind the Dino crap i change at 3000 miles and Amsoil at 25K. (new filter at 12.5K topping off oil then change at 25K) This has to translate into much less wear and thus a longer lasting motor. More metal in the oil = less metal on the walls and rings etc.
 
Heyabusaboy

---------------------------------------------------------
I have found over the years that adding a small amount (like 20%) of synthetic to your OLD oil 30 miles or so before you change the oil will dissolve the buildup in the crevices and drain out with the old oil and the Synthetic "sticks" to the metal causing the new oil to be more pure synthetic. (otherwise your first oil change to full synthetic will have a little dino in it.) Synthetic by nature eats carbon deposits leaving the lands etc clean. If full you may need to drain a bit out to do this.
They say use the motorcycle 10-40 in it but in kaws and zooks i use signature series and never had a clutch issue.
Here is one thing that is fact and no opine, I have done oil analysis on old oil in various cars and always find 10% of the metal in Amsoil compared to Dino oil. Keep in mind the Dino crap i change at 3000 miles and Amsoil at 25K. (new filter at 12.5K topping off oil then change at 25K) This has to translate into much less wear and thus a longer lasting motor. More metal in the oil = less metal on the walls and rings etc.
u might be onto something here
 
Very interesting, just dont understand why you add 20% Full synthetic oil if your oil mixture is already 50/50.
Motul 10w-40 is a semi Synthetic oil. 50% synthetic and 50%mineral...
 
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