Engine oil & filter

Mike

Registered
2002 CA model approaching 7000 mile service interval.

Several questions here, so I'll number them for clarity & convenience:

1. Service interval

Factory service manual & owners manual say to change engine oil every 4000 miles or 6 months, filter every 11000 miles or 18 months. So far, everyone without exception I haved talked to, from the dealer to independent bike shops in the San Diego area agree that this is way too long on both counts. The general consensus is change both every 3000 miles, and that makes sense to me.

2. Filter type

Filter from Suzuki is expensive ($17.95) and although it appears externally similar to the generic lower priced unit that is standard on many of their models for many years now, it is supposedly a higher micron density element. The wrong cheaper filter will fit and look identical, but the manual says to use this one, so I tend to accept that. However, some local mechanics (familiar with Suzuki GSXR's, but not necessarily Hayabusas) claim that the standard (cheaper, low micron element) filter has worked fine for many years on the GSXR's, and don't see the need to spend the extra money as long as it is changed regularly. What are your thoughts?

3. Emgo (aftermarket parts company) makes a replacement for both filters (10-55660 black, 10-55670, chrome for the standard "cheaper" one, and 10-55662, black, 10-55672, chrome for the more expensive "Hayabusa" type) at quite a reduced price. Any experiences with swapping to Emgo, either standard or Hayabusa type? I don't mind spending the extra money if there is really a difference besides the labeling and the advertising budget/marketing campaign, you know? I just hate to pay more for something that doesn't make a significant difference in performance. I know you get what you pay for, but then again, paying twice as much doesn't make it twice as good, does it?

3. Synthetic oils

The general consensus seems to be that I should stay with the non-synthetic oil until 10000 miles, then switch to synthetic, or possibly a blend of the two. Any thoughts on this one?

All feedback will truly be appreciated.
Thank you very much.
Mike
 
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By no means am I an expert on any of theses subjects,, but my thought on it, is that I also believe in changing oil every 3000 miles along with a fiter change, now, I've had many bikes through the years and can honestly say I have never had a engine failure do to oil or filter issues, But I would recommend using the Suzuki filter at least through the 1 year warranty period, then as long as your changing every 3000 miles I can't see you having any problems unless your getting your filters from some guy selling them from the back of his pick-up (ha-ha).
As far as the synthetic oil goes, you defenately should not use it for the first 1000 miles as this type oil will not allow the engine parts to wear together and can create problems with the rings "setting" or sealing to the cylinder walls.
Myself I don't use it at all because it sometimes can make the clutch feel like its slipping, however, some guys like to use the blended versions to get the best of both worlds.
Oil is a subject that you will get a million opinions on, but in the end,, if you use good oil and change it when required, you will rarely ever have a problem, unless your racing or running hard in extreme conditions.
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I have 24,000 on my 99 Busa and I used regular oil during the break in period then switched to Mobil 1 synthetic. Here in Georgia where I ride 50  miles a day each way to work, the Mobil 1 seems to work better and there was a noticable improvment in the clutch feel in hot weather. I change oil about every 4,000 miles and filter every other oil change or each time if there was a hard riding period (ho weather, traffic etc...) I have a Yosh R3 stainless steel pipe and remapped computer and so far so good. I am on my 3rd rear tire, 2nd front and 2nd chain and sprokets. I get about 35-37 mpg if I keep under 100 mph going to work.  GR2
 
I change my oil every 3000 miles and filter every 6000 miles.
I use genuine Suzuki filters as I don't trust the aftermarket items and the difference is £4 - £5 for a aftermarket and about £9- £10 ($15) for OEM.
Oil, I use Castrol R4 Superbike fully synthetic at about £30 ($45 -50for four litres (3.5 litres to a US gallon).

Don't use synthetic 'till at least 4000 miles as the moving parts won't "wear in" properly.
First service (600 miles) change oil and filter and oil at 3000, 6000 miles and filter at 3000, 6000, 12000, 18000 etc.
Tat's what I did.
 
THERE IS A COMPANY CALLED FILTERMAG THEY MAKE A CURVED MAGNETIC PLATE THAT FITS TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE FILTER CAN AND TRAPS METAL PARTICLES INSIDE I THOUGHT IT WAS BS TILL I TOOK A DREMEL AND CUT OPEN A FILTER CAN WHILE THE MAGNET WAS STILL ATTACHED TO IT I FOUND METAL INSIDE THE CAN RIGHT WHERE THE MAGNET WAS ON THE OUTSIDE THIS THING WORKS. BY THE WAY MY BUSA ONLY HAD 1,600 MILES ON IT WHEN I DID THAT OIL CHANGE I NOW HAVE THEM ON ALL THREE OF MY CARS. CHECK IT OUT AT WWW.FILTERMAG.COM. GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR BIKE. TRICKBUSA@AOL.COM
 
I now have 7000 miles on my bike and have changed oil & filter 4 times.( I use the aftermarket filter ) I believe in frequent oil changes as this is a high performance machine not a Ford Escort, and upon inspection of the oil it was dirty even more than I expected. My friend whos a Suzuki Factory Mech. recommended after the 1st 1000 miles or so I go from reg oil to 50/50 synthetic blend to full synthetic and he recommends a motorcycle oil way over a car oil ( I know some would disagree ) but cars dont have a wet clutch. These are just my ideas and misc. ramblings
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After the first 2 oil changes, then go to every 3,000 miles on Mobil 1 mx4t. Some say OK to use 15/50 mobil 1 auto but i am happy with the MX4T 10/40
 
I've heard many opinions about synthetic oil use. Most are that one should break an engine in with conventional oil then switch to synthetic so that the parts may become seated by the wear allowed by the conventional oil, then protected by the greater film strength etc. of the synthetic. This opinion is also published by several sythetic oil companies. One has to wonder about this as Corvettes, Vipers, Porsche models all come with synthetic oil from the factory. Also, motorcycle oils have different additives than automobile oils do.
An informative site about oils is Amsoil.com.
 
Synthetic defines a process not an ingredient. It is possible to have 100% synthetic mineral oil which is basically junk. Synthetic Ester oil is a different story. Motul invented synthetic ester based oil in 1972 and than Amsoil copied them.

Number one reason to run an ester based oil is Bond. That means that ester based oils actually stick to metal. Mineral based oil has no "bond" .

Here is a link:


Motul index
 
i have about 19,000 on my 99. I only use factory filters every 3,000-3,500 miles. After I hit 1000 miles, I've used nothing but MOTUL 15/50 synthetic oil. This is also what the Suzuki bike dealership uses and recommends
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Using mobil 1 15/50..have had some starting troubles...starter slips...gotta put it gear and rock it abit..bump the motor over.
then it works ok,,,,,,,went to Honda oil..10/40...still did it..waiting for it to work it's way to the starter...three rollers you know,,,,,..may have to sand the rollers to make it stop slipping.....do it myself....cant put the Busa in the shop for that!! :hammerhead:
 
I change my filter everytime I change my oil. I change it every 3500 miles per the book. I use Golden Spectrol 4 Synthetic Blend 10w/40 oil and Suzuki's filter.
 
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td> (Busabim @ May 26 2002, 06:49)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Synthetic defines a process not an ingredient. It is possible to have 100% synthetic mineral oil which is basically junk. Synthetic Ester oil is a different story. Motul invented synthetic ester based oil in 1972 and than Amsoil copied them.

Number one reason to run an ester based oil is Bond. That means that ester based oils actually stick to metal. Mineral based oil has no "bond" .

Here is a link:


Motul index[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
I have heard this issue or not using fully syn for new bikes or at least the first few changes. But i have also read about synth oil being superior in protection.

Following Busabim's post, i wonder if anyone one can give me a definative guide to how to chose oil.
 
I use K&N oil filters because thay have a nice nut welded on the end to ease removal and it is drilled for safety wire. I would not advise anyone to use a FRAM motorcycle oil filter - especially a spin on type - as they had some bad failures a few years back and were banned from just about every racing organization known to man.

For oil, I use fully synthetic 0w-40. I think its Maxima, may be Motul, can't remember.

First oil change at 600 or 800 mi. was Suzuki oil and Suzuki Filter.
 
I trust the factory oil filter. That is all we used at the dealer. I used Castrol car oil once and fried my clutch in 1000 miles. I use Motul all the time now. There is a difference between car and bike oil. Don't compare apples to oranges. It all has to do with the wet clutch. I am very hard on my vehicles and refuse to use car oil unless in an emergency. As far as break in don't go beyond 600 miles. There is a lot of metal in there. I saw it everytime we did a first service. I don't reccomend synthetic till 3-4k.
 
I change the filter every other oil change with stock. Now i use amsoil 10/40 woks great. I have 30,00 miles on a 2000 busa puchased in 2001. i usually change my oil every 2250-2500 miles
 
The only thing needing break in is piston rings,I always change to synthetic when I feel that has been accomplished.
Amzoil 20/50 racing and a k&n filter every 2500 mi.Clutch
action is superb,even when subjected to a micky thompson
shoot out tire.
 
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