Engine Cutting Out

S

sherm

Registered
A thread was started on this topic in the general discussion forum but I think it belongs here. I'm repeating my experience and I'd like to here what others have to say.

Mine cut out for the first time yesterday. 2800 miles on the bike. I was riding straight
at about 60 mph in 6th. It cut out for about 5 seconds then returned to normal. About
10 seconds later the same thing happened. I rode about 10 more minutes and had no
reoccurrence. Sounds like a common problem. What's going on?
 
I got the same problem, it started when I decided to use the haya for a long run, at about 2500 km, I was very fast, in 5th gear, 9500 rpm, ( I was passing a Porsche... ) then I engage the 6th...and...cut !
It happens only when the engine is hot, I think it is related to the fuel pump, it is getting so hot that the fuel is vaporized before reaching the engine. The mechanic and Suzuki in Switzerland said they never heard about this, are they connected to internet ???
I will send a chocolate box to the first who find out how to fix this annoying behavior.
PMB
 
A fuel filter problem would not react with a sudden cut out at cruising speed. If it were a fuel filter problem you would notice it under heavy engine load ie full throttle in a higher gear. I would bet my money either on a heat induced problem with the electronics or a poorly designed connector somewhere in the system. I've only had mine cut out one time and that was when it was strapped to the dyno. It got pretty hot on the dyno, we had already made 3 runs and decided to let it cool off for about 30 minutes before making the fourth run. On the fourth run it cut off at about 7,000 RPM. We checked all the logical stuff but could find nothing amiss. We let it cool for almost an hour, and then it ran fine, we then made the fourth dyno run and it made the most horsepower (155) on the fourth run after having cut out. Haven't had a problem since.
 
I have had exactly the same problem dozens of times since new. First occurrance was at 50 miles- engine shut off like a switch. Occurs regardless of ambient or engine temp, as first few weeks of ownership here in NH it was in the 40s to low fifties. Luckily, my brother worked at a bike shop for 7 yrs and it happened recently with him present. We lifted the tank and noticed that the fuel pump was extremely hot- hotter than the engine, and certainly hotter than a fuel-cooled pump should be. Numerous key on-off cycles got the pump to run(became cooler immediately) whereupon the bike started. Noticed crimp on the silly forward hose from the tank to the pump - it is a vacuum formed affair which Suzuki decided to have a differnet size opening on each end. The small end (tank) was slightly crimped. We then tried to duplicate failure by further crimping this hose with pliers while holding engine at 4-5K with no luck- the engine never missed a beat.

Oddest thing- this most recent occurance happended up the street at a certain traffic light. After we got the bike running we went home, and just for laughs, retraced our steps to the same light. Wouldn't you know it, the bike died at exactly the same spot!

Dealer is going to replace fuel pump as well as both fuel hoses. Neither one is convinced this will cure anything- seems more like a electrical/computer gremlin than a simple fuel pump failure.
 
I've had the same problem several times now. All heat related I'm sure. I haven't tried the key on-off ploy yet but will next time.

There was a thread running on this before the re-shuffle but it seems to have gone missing.
 
I just got a chat with a french guy who had experienced this cut, he's a mechanic but not for bike's.
He thinks that it may come from the pipe that resents the gaz to the engine for re-burning, this is used to reduced the CO2 percentage in the exhaust system, pollution stuff.
I think it can be bypassed, any ideas ?
 
One thing I forgot to mention- the key on-off cycling only served to show that the pump functioned in the first place- with intital key on and engine off you can hear it buzz a couple of seconds. If the pump senses line pressure at the fuel rail it stops pumping, and only restarts when the engine is running.
These pumps actually feed much more gas than the engine can use- the surplus is circulated past the fuel rail and back into the tank. What's odd here is somthing is either signaling good pressure and thus pump won't run, or a bizarre fluke in the tank/plumbing is creating massive vapor lock and the pump is only pumping air(hence the overly hot pump). I think I can rule out the tank itself, as mine was replaced (paint defect) and same symptom occured immediately after.
 
If you are having problems with your bike, and you are not getting an FI light, check the malfunction codes in the computer. The deeal mode plug is under the rear seat with two wires going to it.connect the mode switch here if you have one if not you can use any metalic object to jumper this plug it takes the voltage out of the computerr to ground so don't worry about shorting it to ground. The suzuki part number is 09930-82710 and is 11.85 usd
List of dealer mode malfunction codes that are displayed when the Mode Selector switch connected to the delaer mode plug.
C00 none
C11 cam shaft position sensor (CMP sensor)
C12 Crankshaft position sensor (CKP sensor)
C13 Intake air pressure sensor (IAP sensor)
C14 Throttle Position sensor (TP sensor)
C15 Engine coolant temp sensor (ECT sensor)
C21 Intake air temp sensor (IAT sensor)
C22 Atmospheric pressure sensor (AP sensor)
C24 Ignition signal #1 (IG coil #1)
C25 Ignition signal #2 (IG coil #2)
C26 Ignition signal #3 (IG coil #3)
C27 Ignition signal #4 (IG coil #4)
C31 Gear Position signal (GP switch)
C32 Injector signal #1 (FI #1)
C33 Injector signal #2 (FI #2)
C34 Injector signal #3 (FI #3)
C35 Injector signal #4 (FI #4)
C41 Fuel pump control system (FP control system)
C42 Ignition switch signal (IG switch signal)
C92 Fuel level gauge signal (Gauge sending unit)

If there is more than one code present it will be indicated from small code number to larger code number.

As stated in one of the other post the tip over sensor will shut the bike off, fuel pump, injectors and the ignition.
Also the crank input sensor will kill the motor if the ecm loose its signal, the cam position sensor will not kill the bike but it will not let it restart once it is not getting the signal, the cam sensor controlls the fuel injection at the right time (by monitoring the intake exhaust valve postion)
one other signal that is used to determine injector pulse is the voltage of the electrical system. If there is a ground that drains the system voltage down the computer widens the pulse width till the voltage is out of its map range, then shut down also happens.
These are just a few items you can quickly check if you are stranded or just like doing things yourself.
 
The bike will limit the rpm range to 7500 and run like a dog if the other sensors fail. but it will not kill the bike.
 
sorry i am posting this so broken into parts. you should start the motor for 4 secs or more before you turn the mode switch to on or jumper the the plug.
 
The french guy mentionned in one of my previous reply had fixed his cut-off problem and the out of power problem under 4000rpm.
Now the bike is running smoothly from 0 until the end, the cut-off also disapeared.
I'll post any information about what to modify later.
pmb
 
Sorry for this second posting.
I forgot to mention that I never ever receive any error code from the CDI, nothing.
The engine just stop, that's it. sometimes during low rpm sometimes at high rpm. it only happens when the engine is hot, it functions very nicely when it's cold.
Last time I was fast, passing the 5th, then the engine behaved like a flashing light...very scarry !
 
Check under the fuel tank, the first time I lift my tank I noticed the yellow wire with a black tracer was pinched between the fuel petcock and the wirecovered fuel line, the wire was a shiner (copper showing) and I put a small piece of heat shrink over it, however, I don't know what would have happened if I hadn't found it????
 
I did many testing, I did check the error code in the CDI, NOTHING. I will check this yellow cable, but tell me, hayaboosa, did you experienced the engine cut ? I think I am the only one who got this problem am I not ?
I sent emails to suzuki and they don't know anything about this, They even didn't answer ot the latest reply.
Now I will service the busa for the 6000 km, and I asked the mechanics to send the CDI to suzuki for testing.
Story:" I was passing an R1 in a sharp turn, and guess what happened...engine cut ! SHOOT
 
Suzuki knows about it they just dont want to admit it. I was talking to a customer service rep and she slipped up and more or less said they know about it. She said someone would call me, but nothing yet. I have'nt picked up my bike yet because of these cut out problems. one dealer said they would throw in a 4 year extended warranty.
 
I had one cut out the other day. I was wheeling away from the gas station where we usually hang out and suddenly the engine just died under me. it lasted only 1 sec or so but long enough for me to look like a fool. Guess the others thought that I shut off the trottle thinking I was over the limit and laughet a bit on my expense ( bastards ) hehehe.
Thats the only time it has happened to me and it was not heat related. ( it was in the afternnoon , around 20C ( 65-70 F ))
I just hope it doesnt happen next time I am running away from the law :)
 
Another post in "General" forum talks about a faulty crankshaft position sensor. Apparently the Suzi tests said it was OK but they changed it for a fresh one and fixed the problem.
 
Led you astray. See Hiabuser's fix in Manufacturer Problems, entitled "Fix for Cutout"
 
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