Electrical issues?

Todmac

Registered
Hi All,
Seems like I have an electrical issue transpiring.
I put an HID kit in my bike last fall, seems to work ok, but I didnt drive it much and this spring it is doing something strange. My Analog gauges completely stopped working a couple of days ago. Fuel Shows Full, temp gauge no reading, tach at 1000 rpm doesnt move. And no speed gauge. Also, when i started the bike they would not go through their "Check".
3 days with no gauges, this morning I turned the key and WOW, the gauges run their check and appear to be working again. When I go to start the bike however, battery is dead (which never happens overnight).
I just put a new Gel batter in it last fall, I do not beleive it to be the battery so please dont hammer me about replacing the battery, i know they dont last long but I think it can be taken out of the equation.

I am looking for your suggestions. I will run it tonight and put a voltmeter on it to see what I find. But I beleive I got a nice looking 14.4 volts last year when i checked it. Do you check them at Idle or rev them up? As that seemed to make it change......allot.

Thanks for any help. Hope everyone is enjoying the nice riding weather as it comes.

T
 
Where are the ballasts installed? People with HID setups who have gauge problems usually find that the Ballast(s) are messing with the guages. If they are close to the cluster - move them as far away as possible. Not sure why the battery would be dead, but I suspect that is a second issue...
 
Are you using a relay or directly connected to the stock wiring .......Some wiring harnesses for ballast kits i've seen have a diode inline from the original bulb fitting which prevents any weird voltage effects.
Is it a Gen 1 or 2 Busa...the Gen 2 has always on lights and the initial power required to energise HIDs could easily hurt a battery...easy to rewire the relay to only have the lights on when the oil warning light is out or use a mini timer rigged off the starter or similar which is becoming common on newer bikes.
My 2nd bike is a new Tuono V4 which does this and then switches the lights off on its own 30s after the engine stops even when the ignition is still on....plenty of place on a Busa to stash a wee project box or just use something like this to cover the bascis.
 
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From memory that test is done at 5K RPMs. It just makes sure that the rectifier is doing part of it's job. Like stated, make sure the ballast aren't near the cluster. Read up, but I think there's a trick way to start a Gen II that helps as well.
 
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