Dynojet linear shift sensor (gen1)


Mythos

Registered
#3
It's just a switch like any other strain gauge. The DJ shifter is a switch to ground. Ground wire hooked up to PC5 from shifter. When the strain gauge makes contact, the circuit to ground is closed, the programmed ignition and/or fuel kill time is activated.

The quickshifter feature in the PC5 must be set up and configured. Control center software and laptop necessary to do that. I have not set mine up yet so that's all I can tell you. It can be made gear dependent which is nice. I think a top shelf standalone shifter will be a little better but this might be all you need if you are shifting at the same rpm/gear as in drag racing.

Check out step 30 here:

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=129B662B-CA75-AB2F-EB394CD496563332
 
#4
I have one, it works well, I have a multi stage lock up, so it is needed at high rpm, I use the ignition module as well for fuel and ignition kill. I use the pc3 usb, the pcv is similar, I think you still need the ignition module for fuel and ignition kill with the pc5. I use the bike mostly for street riding, so it is convenient because I don't need an air tank, it is always available. I think i posted pics on this forum before, Ill try to find a link.
 

GXR1147

Registered
#5
It's just a switch like any other strain gauge. The DJ shifter is a switch to ground. Ground wire hooked up to PC5 from shifter. When the strain gauge makes contact, the circuit to ground is closed, the programmed ignition and/or fuel kill time is activated.

The quickshifter feature in the PC5 must be set up and configured. Control center software and laptop necessary to do that. I have not set mine up yet so that's all I can tell you. It can be made gear dependent which is nice. I think a top shelf standalone shifter will be a little better but this might be all you need if you are shifting at the same rpm/gear as in drag racing.

Check out step 30 here:

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=129B662B-CA75-AB2F-EB394CD496563332
I'm saving that link for future reference, for just about every aspect of the PCV
 

GXR1147

Registered
#6
I have one, it works well, I have a multi stage lock up, so it is needed at high rpm, I use the ignition module as well for fuel and ignition kill. I use the pc3 usb, the pcv is similar, I think you still need the ignition module for fuel and ignition kill with the pc5. I use the bike mostly for street riding, so it is convenient because I don't need an air tank, it is always available. I think i posted pics on this forum before, Ill try to find a link.
So I'll need to get the ignition module? As in it's a requirement?
 

Mythos

Registered
#7
I think you still need the ignition module for fuel and ignition kill with the pc5.
Yes, that is correct. Thanks for bringing that up. I recently installed an ignition module so I have ignition and fuel kill both if I want. With a PC5, you can kill fuel for quickshifter but for ignition (which I'm guessing is a little more effective), you need the PC5 or PC5+Ignition. IDK much about that PC5+Ignition. Having separate modules might have some advantages to all in one. For one, you might have more switch inputs with separate modules. ..unless they put a couple extra in the PC5+Ignition.
 
#8
I was on the phone with dynojet the other day dealing with a separate issue and dude said it just plugs in to the PCV itself. At least that's how I understood what he was saying. Maybe frank can chime in with some insight.
 
#9
Here is what he said to me when I asked him about it for my Gen 1 with PCV

Greg, it turns out there is another way using Dynojet. If you purchase a "linear" quickshifter sensor, wired into your PCV, it will kill fuel and allow the shift without the clutch. There is a "pull" version, and a "push" version. You would have to figure out how to mount this thing and connect it to your shifter, the rest is just programming in the PCV.
 
#10
Here is what he said to me when I asked him about it for my Gen 1 with PCV

Greg, it turns out there is another way using Dynojet. If you purchase a "linear" quickshifter sensor, wired into your PCV, it will kill fuel and allow the shift without the clutch. There is a "pull" version, and a "push" version. You would have to figure out how to mount this thing and connect it to your shifter, the rest is just programming in the PCV.
That was from frank? My concern with just cutting fuel would be a lean condition on it as it's a turbo bike. The word lean, in any use on it, scares me
 
#11
The switch inputs are the little holes in the PC5. There is a rubber strip you pull out on the back to access the screws to tighten wires into the inputs. All those holes are is an openning in a ground circuit inside the PC5. Whatever feature you configure the PC5 switch inputs for (map switch, AutoTune switch, quickshifter) through the Control Center software (PC5 software) will enable that feature. Once enabled, the feature will activate when the ground it is configured to is closed.

So if you configure switch input 2 to quickshifter, stick a wire in Input 1 and Input 1 Ground, the engine will kill for the preprogrammed interval when you touch the wires together. Attach the wires to a switch and the kill is activated when the switch is thrown. The DJ shift solenoid is the switch.

So the two wires from your shifter go to the switch input 1 or switch input 2 according to whichever you configure the quickshifter feature to. It does not even matter which wire goes to which hole. You are just closing the ground. As long as power flows out of one the input hole and into the ground hole, the ground closed.
QS+switch2.1input.jpg


This pic shows a connector coming from the shift solenoid. This connector mates to a 2 pin connector that has two bare wires with tinned tips at the opposite end. Couple the connectors and the two tinned wire ends go into the switch inputs you configured to the quickshifter feature. It doesn't matter wich wire goes to which hole. You actually could connect either wire to input 1 and connect the other wire to the frame instead of the switch input ground. The frame is a ground too. Alls you need to do is close the circuit to ground by making contact between the switch input and any ground you like. The feature will activate. The input grounds are just a convenience. All that is is a path on the circuit board in the pc5 that goes to ground.
DJ.shift.switch.wires.png



I will add one thing, DO NOT ground anything but the switch inputs to the switch input grounds. I measured the current from the switch input and it was a few microamps (far less than required to power 1 LED). You might melt your PC if you ground even a low draw appliance to the PC5 input grounds.
 
#12
My concern with just cutting fuel would be a lean condition on it as it's a turbo bike. The word lean, in any use on it, scares me
Sorry for the long explanation. Sounds like you are more concerned about how to set it up than how to install.

That is a good point about turbo. I think you will need to hook in an ignition module to use that shifter safely on your bike. You can do Rev Xtend, launch Control and Pit Speed with the Ignition Module inputs as well is control ignition timing.

As often mentioned, you could do all or most of this stiff with ECU Editor. That might be another rout to investigate.
 
#14
Sorry for the long explanation. Sounds like you are more concerned about how to set it up than how to install.

That is a good point about turbo. I think you will need to hook in an ignition module to use that shifter safely on your bike. You can do Rev Xtend, launch Control and Pit Speed with the Ignition Module inputs as well is control ignition timing.

As often mentioned, you could do all or most of this stiff with ECU Editor. That might be another rout to investigate.
I started wondering just about best way to mount and set up. But this opened up other questions relating to requirements for safe operation as well. So I'm going for both now, lol.
 
#18
My guess is the ECU based one might have more adjustments through ECU Editor. IDK, haven't looked at ECUE yet. I think the PC5 adjustments will work great. You have adjustbale kill time/gear. I'd like to have a range of kill times for rpm but if you're setting up for drag racing, I bet that will cover you for any shift at any rpm. I'd think the longest kill times you would use would be at racing shift points. Those ought to be slow enough for lower rpm shifts too.

Don't know if I mentioned but the HM GP looks like a kickass shifter. Buy a relay and you get autoblip clutchless downshifts. I'm dying to try that but it's about a grand if not more. If it's as flawless as they claim, it's worth it.

I'd like to go with an air shifter on one of the bikes someday too. You can set that up to shift autmatically at a chosen rpm and from what I hear, they never miss.
 

Boosted Cycle Perf

Donating Member
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#19
Auto blip on works on bikes with drive by wire throttle bodies. Cans do such things on the hayabusa because they are cable driven.

Here’s the set up for the ecu quick shifter. Plugs in to the god sensor just like an ecu based shift kill set up. Then just flash the ecu with shifter settings enabled. Then you can do fuel and ignition cut for clean kills with no pops. If you have a stage 2 Rcc kit with a micro tech you will want to do spark kill only.

If you have an Rcc configured micro tech, when you do fuel and spark kill it doesn’t kill the secondaries and cause lean conditions, and sometimes not allow it to shaft.
 

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