Dyno Tune Scheduled - What Should I Look For?

Craash

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All,

I have a new 2009 'Busa (just over 2100 miles now), which I've added a full Yosh 4-2-1 exhaust, and an KN air filter (plus tons of other non engine peformance mods).

I also have Greg's ECU editor installed, and I've done the easy stuff (Top Speed, Timing, etc).

Saturday, I have a dyno tune session with the only shop close that is on the ECU Editor's list.

My question is what should I look for? I don't necessarily mean HP numbers, becuase we all know dyno's are hard to compare, but as far as Fuel/Air ratio down low, or smoothness, what are the keys to ensure the bike is as dialed in as could reasonably be expected?

I would REALLY appreciate some dyno sheet examples of both what it should look like, and perhaps some that display problems to keep my eyes open for.

Besides the actual Busa, this site has been the 2nd best thing I've found, so I really appreciate all the information and help anyone can offer.

Of COURSE I'll post my before/after dyno sheet, and I'll provide my tuned map to the ECU Editor website (and you, Greg), for anyone who has a similiar setup.
 
my bike has been done with the ecu and simple things is that you are useing a tuner that knows what he is doing

your looking for a smoth A/F at about 13.2 or so

mine still has a littel boble in it but the bike runs great , you will deff tell a diff when they are done , any how look for smooth power threw out the pull and your hp should be about 185 +- look like this if not better

i had already put all my mods on the bike , exhauset filter ex befor the tune and that is what my baseline was at 180.3 after the tune it hit 187.4 , i think this shows finle tune at 187.0 any how this is also with a 42t rear sprocket !

hope this helps

chip.JPG
 
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Thank you, wonderful info! The little bobble you are talking about is between 2750 and 4500 or so on the A/F chart? In a perfect world, would it look like it does from 5K-11K or is that unreasonable?
 
yeah but it not that bad ,, they do a 4th gear pull so when they nail it your flooding the ibke with fuel so it looks worse than it is but a perfect world it should be flast,

have that little hp dip about 8k as well but still when you are done , take it off the dyno and just run it down the street , you well be smileing from ear to ear !

+ if you hang out wile they tune you will notice the diff in sound as the bike gets better air fuel mix and burn !

have fun and ride safe
 
I plan on being there. Might even run the HD video camera. ;-)

I just realized on your graph that I'm not 100 percent positive which is the final run, on the HP side - I was concentrating more on the A/F side.

I'm assuming it's the one that has the power curve higher all the way through the RPM range, with the exception of 9-11K, or am I just backwards?
 
who are you going to see? let me know if interested in hosting your map file for others to use as a starter map, ill put it on my site with the others etc.

Good luck, have fun!
 
Hey Greg! Got any more pointers for me? (Yea, I know, RCC Turbo) :poke:

I'm going to Xsv Sports | Performance Specialist

There were the only ones on the map. And of COURSE I'll send you the map to enclude with your cd.

I'm still very interested in a "your dyno should NOT look like this" map.
 
yes blue line is finle tune, low 13 a/f and high on the hp ant T


 
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Like H2447inTx said just look for a nice smooth power curve with A/F numbers he mentioned.
I don't have ecu editor and am jealous of ones who do .
I have pcv on it but my final numbers were right around 187hp when done . HP numbers aren't really as imp as having a good A/F ratio and smooth power curve .
High HP numbers really are just for bragging rights as the diff between 175 and 185 is diff to tell and feel unless you do alot of track days or drag it .
Good luck and let us know how it come out .

Ps. Greg aka Smithabusa is a very good man . Listen to him .
Walking Electronic Busa expert he is .
 
Thanks for the input, I agree, Greg is great. he's always taken the time to email back and forth with me, and is likely deciding factor for a RCC Stage 1 turbo this winter.

I'm more interested in my A/F than the HP numbers, which will be what they will be. We get the A/F right, the HP should follow.

BTW, run, don't walk, and get the ECU editor (unless you are gen 1?) Have you seen the 'auto tune' stuff they are working on now? Wow.
 
Don't get hung up on the smooth AFR and tuning for 13.2 is a standard in the Industry. If you are average bike shop and bought a Dynojet dyno. you were trained to tune around there. But of course you know not all bikes tune the same, not all tuners tune the same. You should tune for power not AFR for the most part. If you are having the tuner tune everything ie; part throttle, throttle transitioning and WOT, the tune should take awhile especially when using ECU editor.

Remember, the dyno #s do not guarantee the best performance on the road as it does not compensate for Ram-air an actual engine load going down the road. Experienced tuners will tune for best power but also keeping in mind how well the Ram-air may help on the road. Some will also take the bike or car on the road thereafter and fine tune on the road for comparisons, etc. You'll notice a good tuner will use the dyno drum to give some resistence to see how it affects the ECU and adjust accordingly.

My current 2006 Hayabusa ran the best in the quarter mile sitting at about 12.8 to 12.9. When it was around 13.0 to 13.1, performance was off slightly at least for me. I typically like to see the richer #s from my experience. Plus when the cooler weather comes about, the richness is better. And in some states that use oxygenaated fuels this is a good idea.

BTW, we have seen a 3% horsepower bump from Summer fuel to Winter fuel. We had done some back to back tests on 3 bikes and generally saw about the same consistent gains w/o tuning. Pretty cool actually.

Good luck and have fun!!
 
Save your money. Go to Smithers in Olathe. They dont call him the busa doctor for nothing.
 
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