Dyno results

ScottC

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Just looking for some feedback. This is all bolt on mods. Brocks short meg and K&N air filter.
 

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What year bike?

On a 2001 with a Brocks Alien head, PC III USB, Air box mod, intake cam mod and Pair valve set up for crankcase pressure relief we hit 182hp.
 
Is this average, below, or above?

That's average.
You could go to another tuner and maybe get a couple more hp... or lose 3 or 4.
It looks good on paper, so as long as the idle and throttle response is good and you can feel a small power increase, then it's tuned right.:beerchug:
 
Is this average, below, or above?

Scott, the main issue with your dyno chart is that it was printed out using the "STD" correction factor - STD typically skews the hp and torque numbers upward, and is not a good CF for comparisons. If you can go back to your tuner and get the same pulls printed out using the "SAE" correction, we can make comparisons and more relevant comments.
 
will a new dyno need to be done or will the shop be able to print this out?

No, it does not need to go back on the dyno. All they have to do is go into the file they already created, select "SAE",
and print out the chart . . .
 
It seems a little low but that doesn't mean it is the bike....that dyno could read low numbers. Perfect example is mine.....2 different makes of dyno's, one was 184 sae and the other was 178 sae. The before and after performance is the key.
 
its nice to have the Dyno #s for your bike , but the only way to tell if its faster than another bike is by doing the rearview mirror test !:laugh:
 
The bottom 2 lines are a more telling story to me. You were running very lean in the beginning. You have a nearly flatline now at 13.2 AFR. That is about as good as it is going to get.
 
I hate the whole dyno thing,, some dynos read high, some read low,, sae, std, etc etc etc... I wish there was som ISO 9000 standard or something so that all dynos could be calibrated so that they would read close to the same no matter what.. I hate the idea of paying $1100 for a pipe, $100 for a filter, $300-500 for a tune ---- then get my bike dyno'ed and find out that it may or maynot be accurate.. :banghead:
 
I hate the idea of paying $1100 for a pipe, $100 for a filter, $300-500 for a tune ---- then get my bike dyno'ed and find out that it may or maynot be accurate.. :banghead:

As long as I see the improvement from the baseline run, then all is good. I don't really care if my bike has more power than anyone else's, just if it's been improved by my mods and tuned properly with smooth power delivery.
 
As long as I see the improvement from the baseline run, then all is good. I don't really care if my bike has more power than anyone else's, just if it's been improved by my mods and tuned properly with smooth power delivery.

I agree with you on that.................... I just think it would be nice if all dynos read close to the same. I feel like you shouldnt have wonder when it comes to a piece of equipment that was designed to measure something..
 
I agree with you on that.................... I just think it would be nice if all dynos read close to the same. I feel like you shouldnt have wonder when it comes to a piece of equipment that was designed to measure something..

I understand and agree. Also, this being the case, I agree with Philip above that as long as their is improvement I am happy too. On my 08 Busa I hit 175mph 2 times trying and still had more power but my brain kicked in and started telling me I was an idiot and to slow down! In normal driving, I never hit 175mph and maybe a few times around 160mph but I think my average short burst speed around the highways may be 130mph (Give or take and as I said, short bursts).

All I care about is taking off and hitting 130 pretty quick, anything else isn't really used.
 
I agree with you on that.................... I just think it would be nice if all dynos read close to the same. I feel like you shouldnt have wonder when it comes to a piece of equipment that was designed to measure something..

Actually, they do. Dynojet dynos are consistent when the SAE correction factor is used. That correction factor takes into account things like temperature and barometric pressure from the dyno's own weather station module. SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) is the standard that should be used. When it is, I can compare my numbers in New York with someone else's numbers in California, or somewhere else in the world where altitudes and temperatures may differ. It also comes into play in areas like the east coast, where different seasons can change the numbers when the SAE factor is not used. Of course, when you start to talk about different brands of dynos, everything changes . . . IMHO, the bottom line is this: any before and after runs should done on the same dyno, and the emphasis should be on whatever gains may have occurred, not on the final numbers themselves. And when you compare charts from different bikes dynoed on different days, the SAE correction factor will be the most accurate, and should only be really considered when the same brand dyno is used in both cases . . .
 
Powerhouse, I talked to Beach Blvd Motorsports here in Jacksonville. Long story short, they acted like they couldn't get that other report. "It's a new machine and we gave you the correct printout" (Also acted like there is no other printout available, I asked if he was sure and he said he was.) I asked another guy who understood a little better and said the other, in this case the SAE was don years ago and the correct way is now with the paper they gave me. (Again, acted like he couldn't get that other printout)

He asked like me, those who have had the Dyno done to see what they were getting using the same standard I had.

EDITED: Also stated the last time the DYNO was updated was a year ago.
 
Did you watch them dyno it? Reason I say that is because a few people have had issues with Beach Blvd about being charged for something and they not doing the work. That might be a generic busa sheet they give everyone. They might have loaded in a PC map and called it good. .Hard to say with those crooks.

Your sheet doesn't have any info at the bottom if it did then all they would have to do is pull up that folder click on the run and click SAE instead of STD before they print it out. If they tell you they can't do that then they are full of it.. Every good tuner uses SAE. You only see STD when they want the #'s to be higher. I have spent many many hours on a dynojet 248 tuning cars.
 
Did you watch them dyno it? Reason I say that is because a few people have had issues with Beach Blvd about being charged for something and they not doing the work. That might be a generic busa sheet they give everyone. They might have loaded in a PC map and called it good. .Hard to say with those crooks.

Your sheet doesn't have any info at the bottom if it did then all they would have to do is pull up that folder click on the run and click SAE instead of STD before they print it out. If they tell you they can't do that then they are full of it.. Every good tuner uses SAE. You only see STD when they want the #'s to be higher. I have spent many many hours on a dynojet 248 tuning cars.

I did not see it done, came in the shop to pick it up and it was still hooked up to the Dyno but... don't know. Could have been for looks I guess. Makes me want to find another place that has a dyno... Not sure where else around Jackson ville area to take it however.
 
They may have done the work but the more I read here the fisher it gets! If anyone knows where I can take my bike for another Dyno that is legit around Jacksonville, Daytona Gainesville etc...
 
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